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Shar's 2019 AR 240 Build Thread

shar

Jet Boat Addict
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2019
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boat.jpeg

Welcome to my build thread! I've enjoyed followings others, and learned a lot along the way. Figured I would create my own, and hopefully help fellow newcomers :)

I'll maintain this post as a running list/log of current mods - (Updated 6/11/2020)

Audio*
- Fusion Wire/RCA Harness [010-12812-01]
- Fusion Power/Speaker Harness [S00-00522-10]
- Fusion Dust Cover [010-12466-01]
- JL Audio M3-650X-S-GM (x3)
- JL Audio MV800/8i
- JL Audio XD-BTS Battery Terminal (x2)
- KnuKonceptz Karma SS 12 Gauge Speaker Wire (200 Feet)
- KnuKonceptz Krystal Kable 2 Channel 8M Twisted Pair RCA Cable 25Ft (x3)
- KnuKonceptz Kolossus Kable 18 Gauge Blue Primary / Remote Wire (30ft)
- KnuKonceptz Kolossus Fleks Kable 4 Gauge Blue Power/Ground Wire (60ft)

Maintenance/Performance
- JetBoatPilot Thrust Vector X
- Noco Genius 2-Bank Battery Charger

Trailer
- Stoltz Bow Roller Kit (HERE)
- Guide Post Covers
- CE Smith Trailer Guide Posts

Aesthetics/Other
- Misc Seadek pieces
- Sticker/label removal
- 12v Dual USB outlet w/ voltmeter (
HERE)
- Mantus 13lb M1 Anchor


*in progress
 
Last edited:

jthackman

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where did you put the other 2 6.5" speakers?
 

shar

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After taking the boat out for the first time, (you can read about it here: Sweet baby Jesus! Maneuvering at 5mph!) i knew I had to do something about the slow speed steering. My first official mod was the JBP Thrust Vector X. What a night and day difference! Can't imagine getting around without them now. Worth every penny in my opinion.



Some of you may have seen it in another one of my post, but I was actually able to grab some video of them in action under the boat..

 

shar

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Moved into a new storage facility today. Pricey, but having power AND keeping it out the Texas heat/sun was a must. It was a tight fit with the trailer guides on, so I ended up removing them after the fact. I think I’ve gotten good enough at low speed maneuvering (thanks to the thrust vectors and some practice) that I won’t need them moving forward. Guess I’ll find out soon enough :)

EEE0F66F-A8BF-42B5-BD9C-CA06AAB85AF5.jpeg

I took advantage of my new found shade, and swapped out the 12v plug for a pair of USB ports w/voltmeter. Quick and easy install.

062032E5-5329-4CD3-978C-483F7411690A.jpeg
AFC06E12-451F-44B7-A73A-83ED0B6A7AD9.jpeg

Lastly, I cleaned up what I believe to be my last 2 stickers and installed some Seadek bow mats.

837411C0-89B5-4239-A42A-891231B30C47.jpeg
 
Last edited:

anmut

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USB volt meter is sweet - got a link?
 

shar

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New anchor arrived! Got really tired of dragging the box anchor across the bottom of Lake Travis. It never held well for me, so I’m hoping this one does a better job of keeping the boat in place.
A7763DCA-E2F1-4E72-9A9F-B0AA2DFC5C54.jpeg
 

HangOutdoors

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I envy you.... Still awaiting the arrival of my Mantus, since my other one is on the lake bed. Fedex seems to be avoiding me, still in transit to local fedex. Hopefully soon though.
 

shar

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Finally got around to putting on my registration stickers before today’s outing. I think they did a pretty good on the font match. Ordered from DomedNumbers.com

A2CE3223-C07A-4931-9361-90CCEBEDA093.jpeg
 
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shar

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Install day! Started laying the foundation for the stereo, including an onboard battery charger.

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The dealer plopped the batteries in the middle of the storage compartment, making it almost useless for anything else. I figured now would be a good a time to address this. To the right of the batteries, you can see the power and ground wire for the amp that I started pulling.
5A0CB8C2-A898-4894-8F09-47123FE7933D.jpeg

I had previously wrapped them in 1" split wire loom. I ended up using 4 gauge KnuKonceptz Flex in orange and blue. Not partial to those colors, but it was all they had in stock. High quality stuff though, highly recommend it.
9A8885E0-274B-4E01-A631-998DA89AF739.jpeg

I pulled the batteries, relocated the trays further back, and mounted the charger on the same wall as the battery switches. Kind of a tight fit, but I wanted everything out of the way. (i'm also now realizing how annoying those cushion tags are, and will be the next thing to go! ) I ended running the power/ground wires for the amp across the top/front of the engine bay over the starboard side.
52A72102-BEE3-4549-8215-A32FCDD91BB1.jpeg

On both sides, I used some gorilla glue to mount some nylon cable ties underneath the lip. I'll go back and secure the amp wires once it cures.
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At the helm, I made some space behind the dash for a 12x18 cutting board that will serve as my amp rack.
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F62E7E9D-6CEA-49DB-AE4D-9B38B5363E06.jpeg

I pre-set the screws for the amp, and drilled some countersunk holes to mount the board to the existing smaller board beneath.
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Test fit looks good! Ideally, everything will be hidden and inconspicuous once the curtain is closed.
D99662F0-5EDC-4028-9325-33A4A8CFF2DF.jpeg

At the back of the boat, I pulled the radio to find my harness was cut like many others here. Luckily I ordered one in advance in anticipation of this. I also replaced the main harness, to utilize a remote lead for the amp.
6B3BA86D-6CCE-4DA2-A7E4-909BAE35406F.jpeg

I used heat shrink tubing on the RCA connections to be safe. I also capped off the AUX as I don't ever see myself using anything but bluetooth. Again, KnuKonceptz stuff.
4AD569BA-756F-402D-B7C7-11D065442D26.jpeg

I used my fishing rods to snake the wires through the hull. The thickness of the wires and loom made it too difficult to pull through the swim deck storage. As it turns out, there is a hole in the back of the starboard storage area that is a straight shot to the radio unit. I mounted more nylon ties a few inches above the carpet line on the outer wall. Impossible to see unless you stick your head in there. Once cured, the RCA's in loom will be secured to it.
ED79E288-BB88-4354-BC61-1279D9118549.jpeg


All-in-all, a good but exhausting day. Hoping to pickup where I left off tomorrow morning, before it the sun is out in full effect.

Lessons learned thus far:
- 25ft RCA's are way too long. 20ft cables should be plenty
- 30ft power/ground wire (60ft total) is about 5ft too long on each run
- WEAR LONG SLEEVES
- Don't try to tackle this in the Texas heat (95 degrees) unless you like sweating (a lot) 😅
 

Maillis

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That power/ground cable is great quality but I’d be concerned that it’s too small for the 50-60ft total circuit you’re running. Voltage drop is going to be close to 10%. You really should consider going with 1/0 awg or bigger for a run that long (2/0 is recommended). If you do go bigger you’ll need to get reducers to connect the wires to your amp directly since the wire will be too big for the amp’s terminals. Or you can install bus bars near the amp and then run the smaller wire a short distance from the bar to the amp.
 

shar

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@Maillis Dammit, you are right! I went back and reviewed JL's wire size chart, and missed the part about calculating the distance using "round trip". Thanks for the heads up.
Both of the battery terminals and fuse holder I purchased only support up to 4 gauge... I guess I'll be replacing those components as well as upgrading to 1/0.

Since I've already got the power run I'm interested to see what the voltage reading is at the amp. JL's TUN software should provide this for me, as well as any subsequent under voltage warnings/errors.

1592324426702.png
 

Inthrustwetrust

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I notice the factory messed up the screw hole for your head unit, they did the same to mine, I used some marine epoxy in the screw hole to secure the screw and keep the unit sealed so water can’t get in, curious what/if anything you are doing. I’m afraid if I ever have to get the head unit off it’s going to be hell of a time breaking the epoxy loose
 

shar

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@Inthrustwetrust Haven't decided how I am going to tackle that, if at all. Since I'm cutting holes in the boat, maybe I could trim a small piece from the scraps and epoxy it behind the holes Yamaha botched.
 

Inthrustwetrust

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@Inthrustwetrust Haven't decided how I am going to tackle that, if at all. Since I'm cutting holes in the boat, maybe I could trim a small piece from the scraps and epoxy it behind the holes Yamaha botched.
That’s actually a pretty good idea, just use a longer screw. My top hole was hanging on by a couple threads of fiberglass, they completely missed the bottom hole, screw wouldn’t even try to grab anything, made the seal not tight. My luck something would snag on the loose side and rip the entire unit out. I also didn’t want water getting back there corroding/ruining the unit, or getting large amounts of water in the boat. Probably not a issue on sandbar days but doing water sports and stopping quickly I could see the wake coming over the bottom swim deck and building up a decent amount of water in the hull cavity
 

Austin-BR

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I used to live in Austin before move to NC, love the city and the Lake Travis.
Thank you for the links and step by step, going to a similar route. Still missing all the cables and the time to install it, but not the Texas heat :)
IMG_2590.jpgIMG_2616.jpg
 
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