Geoff Cooper
Jetboaters Admiral
- Messages
- 1,124
- Reaction score
- 1,256
- Points
- 262
- Location
- Thailand
- Boat Make
- Yamaha
- Year
- 2006
- Boat Model
- AR
- Boat Length
- 23
I realize that this subject has been approached before and probably discussed on numerous occasions however after a few days weighing up the pro's and cons and as i was in the process of writing other Posts and my rear tray was out i decided to fit a couple of valves, I had considered Brass and steel and stainless versions and discarded those ideas as i use my Boat in salt water and sooner or later i felt that they would create problems so i went for a pair of PVC valves with no metal parts and tested to 150 psi and is acid proof, I thought that would be just the ticket, I also opted to place the valves under the rear tray as some days when i return to the Marina it would be handy to be able to close the water inlet tubes and flush each engine separately with fresh water thus dumping any salt water from inside the Engine back into the sea via the exhaust etc, Ok this is how i went about it so let me know your comments, It's not a difficult job and you should tackle it without any problems so don't be scared of having a go your only cutting a rubber hose that you can replace very easy if you wanted to and revert back to normal, There is a few tips on the way so here we go.
Your rear tray has been removed, If you have been reading my recent posts i will carry on from there, Remove the drain off pipe, Now we need to locate the pipes that are to be cut.
I used one of these rechargeable LED lights that fit on your head as you cant beat a little light on the subject and also it fits perfect around the large rear tubes and lights the working area very well. A long shafted flat headed screwdriver the longer the better a good blade some grips and a pair of pliers are also needed.
Lay down on the top of the Air filter and locate the Y connection, It's at the back left hand side of the engine at the bottom it has 2 Black pipes and 1 red pipe connected to it and the 1 pipe goes through the bulkhead.
Ok here it is you can see the concertina pipe that protects it as it goes through the bulkhead remove the hose clip and the pipe you may have to cut the pipe if it doesn't want to come off but just cut it were it goes onto the Y connector and remove the rest of the pipe left on the Y connector with a sharp blade.
If your working alone when you locate the pipe from behind the engine push a wooden skewer through the bulkhead next to the pipe so you can follow the pipe from under the rear tray to see where it goes to and also to judge where the best position to place the valve so it can be seen and operated through the inspection hatch.
You have now observed the route the pipe takes and where it connects to the rear transom before it enters the jet pump, Choose a suitable position along the pipe that allows good vision from the inspection hole and cut the pipe, Release the pipe from the transom side and from the Y connector and take the 2 pieces of pipe out this will give you freedom to work and replace all clips with new ones.
1/2 inch PVC Ball valve
Ok some reducers and hose clips and jointing connectors and some PVC glue and were in business don't worry about the quantity in this Photo you wont use all of this it's just over here they sell these things in bags of 4, Oh i had a idea with the plastic tube which i wanted to try, I wanted to add a piece so i could monitor the water flow just for curiosity really and see at what rate it flowed at but you don't have to do that just add the valve between the 2 pipes if you want to, You can always take one of the pieces of pipe with you to the DIY shop and make sure you get all the correct parts before you put it back together just build it in the shop, Don't forget you have 2 engines to do.
Just run some glue inside the end of the valve and push the reducers into it it's dry in about 30 seconds and you wont move it.
You can see the plastic section i added and the pipe to pipe connector all new hose connectors i hate the ones that are already on the pipes
New clips on the original hose we cut
Don't forget to replace the outer protection before you refit, If you have a problem removing the original clip from the Y connector cut the hose where it goes onto the Y connector and remove the clip and just run a sharp blade over the small piece of hose left on the Y connector and remove it that way you only loose about an inch and your adding more than that with the valve.
Ok now you only have to make 2 connections on the actual boat as you have added the valve out of the way of the Boat so no awkward places to work and fitted all new hose clips at the same time, Refit the hose and position your new valve where it can be seen and accessed easily and make sure there are no kinks in the hose when you refit it then do the same procedure to the other side, As you can see by mine in this Photo it's very easy to get to and no hot engine to climb over, Now not only have i isolated the engines in case of problems that may incur in future but if i choose to leave the boat in the water at the Marina i can connect the hose pipe to it and flush the engines out with fresh water without taking in saltwater, Don't forget to connect the rear tray drainpipe and put new silicon around the tubes after you have done both sides, Job done, I think i have given as much information as possible and made the description of how i did the job as easy to follow as i can but you tell me and if there is anything i can help you with if your not 100% sure of something just let me know, Total cost around $15 a lot cheaper than a new engine.
Your rear tray has been removed, If you have been reading my recent posts i will carry on from there, Remove the drain off pipe, Now we need to locate the pipes that are to be cut.
I used one of these rechargeable LED lights that fit on your head as you cant beat a little light on the subject and also it fits perfect around the large rear tubes and lights the working area very well. A long shafted flat headed screwdriver the longer the better a good blade some grips and a pair of pliers are also needed.
Lay down on the top of the Air filter and locate the Y connection, It's at the back left hand side of the engine at the bottom it has 2 Black pipes and 1 red pipe connected to it and the 1 pipe goes through the bulkhead.
Ok here it is you can see the concertina pipe that protects it as it goes through the bulkhead remove the hose clip and the pipe you may have to cut the pipe if it doesn't want to come off but just cut it were it goes onto the Y connector and remove the rest of the pipe left on the Y connector with a sharp blade.
If your working alone when you locate the pipe from behind the engine push a wooden skewer through the bulkhead next to the pipe so you can follow the pipe from under the rear tray to see where it goes to and also to judge where the best position to place the valve so it can be seen and operated through the inspection hatch.
You have now observed the route the pipe takes and where it connects to the rear transom before it enters the jet pump, Choose a suitable position along the pipe that allows good vision from the inspection hole and cut the pipe, Release the pipe from the transom side and from the Y connector and take the 2 pieces of pipe out this will give you freedom to work and replace all clips with new ones.
1/2 inch PVC Ball valve
Ok some reducers and hose clips and jointing connectors and some PVC glue and were in business don't worry about the quantity in this Photo you wont use all of this it's just over here they sell these things in bags of 4, Oh i had a idea with the plastic tube which i wanted to try, I wanted to add a piece so i could monitor the water flow just for curiosity really and see at what rate it flowed at but you don't have to do that just add the valve between the 2 pipes if you want to, You can always take one of the pieces of pipe with you to the DIY shop and make sure you get all the correct parts before you put it back together just build it in the shop, Don't forget you have 2 engines to do.
Just run some glue inside the end of the valve and push the reducers into it it's dry in about 30 seconds and you wont move it.
You can see the plastic section i added and the pipe to pipe connector all new hose connectors i hate the ones that are already on the pipesNew clips on the original hose we cut
Don't forget to replace the outer protection before you refit, If you have a problem removing the original clip from the Y connector cut the hose where it goes onto the Y connector and remove the clip and just run a sharp blade over the small piece of hose left on the Y connector and remove it that way you only loose about an inch and your adding more than that with the valve.
Ok now you only have to make 2 connections on the actual boat as you have added the valve out of the way of the Boat so no awkward places to work and fitted all new hose clips at the same time, Refit the hose and position your new valve where it can be seen and accessed easily and make sure there are no kinks in the hose when you refit it then do the same procedure to the other side, As you can see by mine in this Photo it's very easy to get to and no hot engine to climb over, Now not only have i isolated the engines in case of problems that may incur in future but if i choose to leave the boat in the water at the Marina i can connect the hose pipe to it and flush the engines out with fresh water without taking in saltwater, Don't forget to connect the rear tray drainpipe and put new silicon around the tubes after you have done both sides, Job done, I think i have given as much information as possible and made the description of how i did the job as easy to follow as i can but you tell me and if there is anything i can help you with if your not 100% sure of something just let me know, Total cost around $15 a lot cheaper than a new engine.
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