Spark plug wires and coils: Removing

[Ronald Dillow]

Does anyone have any tips on removing my plug wires and coils? I have a spare "brain" box, so I'm going to rebuild it, make sure everything is good, then switch it out on the engine I'm having issues with. Then move on to the other engine. They seem really in there tight

 

[Speedling]

Yeah, I remember them being pretty tight as well.
Try a needle nose pliers, or even the ones at the automotive store that have an angle on them, and try to twist it once or twice to get it out. They ARE rebuildable using an old school hot rod type of kit, but basically, you gotta just shimmy them out.

 

[Ronald Dillow]

Got them out! Thank you so much. Sending the wires to jetski solutions tomorrow

 

[itsdgm]

That's awesome @Ronald Dillow good luck with the repair.

 

[4x15mph]

Excellent. Tell us more about how you did this since I know I thought about taking a look at replacing wires and backed off since it was a haystack of wires that looked like something I shouldn't mess with.

New plugs/wires would be a great preventative/upgrade for our decade old, 2 stroke boats.

 

[Ronald Dillow]

when you take the cover off, don't get scared. Thats the first thing I had to tell myself.
Take the medal bracket that covers the coils off first. Then the bracket covering the wires going into the box. There is a white grommet in the hole holding the wire grommet in. I took a small piar of needle nose and it popped right out. One thing I did before removing the cover was a took my silver sharpie and marked on the box the wire numbers. I called them 1, 2, 3
Now before you do anything else get familiar with how all the wires sit in the box. This is important for reassembly.
In the middle of the box there is a grounding screw that holds the ground wire for all 3 plug wires. Remove it.
Then chase each plug wire to its harness. I took a piece of tape and marked each wire, 1, 2, 3 so it is easier to put back together. Unplug each wire.
Now you have them unplugged and ungrounded.

Go back to where the wires go in. There is a rubber plug around the wires going into the box to keep water out. This is in there tightly, but I just carefully, pulled on it and it started to move. I guess you could try some WD40 on them too, if if could get down into the sides. After a little pulling they pop right out.

The gasket on the lid for the box is like $70 so be careful with it. I cleaned everything up, but the inside was very clean.
Look around and you will start to recognize the pieces in the box.

Since I'm having issues with this one motor, I bought ba second brain box for $250 out of of totaled but. that was running, so I am going to build this one up and just swap out the one on my boat. Once I know this engine is running good, I will do the other one.

I was also told that my key issue with it not turning off is the safety switch in the plug hatch. So I'm going to replace it. A guy in Florida told me that as long as it is dry you have no problems but as soon as it gets wet, bam, it won't shut off. And that;'s what mine is doing.

I'm throwing away my old seat sliders tonight. Since I had my seats done, I replaced them cause they where beat, but if anyone whats any parts off of them, let me know.

 

[Ronald Dillow]

After all the work I did replacing my wires and repairing my second electrical box, I spent about 4 hours taking out the old one and installing the new one. (I got a new hip 3 weeks ago so I was a little slow moving around) Boat has been sitting since Oct 1. Turned on the gas, and both engines fired up. My problem engine seems to be running much better with new wires. I replaced the switch and wiring harness for the clean up hatch and it now shuts off with the key.

Next is to wash it, and install my new water strainers and graphics. Hope to be in the water in the next couple of weeks.

Ron

 

[Ronald Dillow]

I want to give a huge shout out to jetski solutions, www.jetskisolutions.com.

I was having a ton of engine issues such as, engine would not shut off with key. Engine would run and then die, and not restart etc.

They took the old wires I sent them, and put a meter on them and told me that one of the wires was basically "on" all the time.
With the wires installed the boat now shuts off and runs like a top.

I sent my second set to them last week and got them back in 3 days. Today I ran the engine with the new wires for 10 minutes and it ran great. The other engine with the old wires, runs but you can diffidently ear a difference. I will be installing the new wires on that engine within the next week or so, and then I am READY for summer.
My boat got a complete make over. New upholstery, graphics, etc. She looks great.

Hers a pic of the new wires installed. It was a little nerve racking, taking the brain box apart, but I did get a new gasket, ($45) and followed the torque specs.

• 
  

 

[Bigred1000]

when you take the cover off, don't get scared. Thats the first thing I had to tell myself.
Take the medal bracket that covers the coils off first. Then the bracket covering the wires going into the box. There is a white grommet in the hole holding the wire grommet in. I took a small piar of needle nose and it popped right out. One thing I did before removing the cover was a took my silver sharpie and marked on the box the wire numbers. I called them 1, 2, 3
Now before you do anything else get familiar with how all the wires sit in the box. This is important for reassembly.
In the middle of the box there is a grounding screw that holds the ground wire for all 3 plug wires. Remove it.
Then chase each plug wire to its harness. I took a piece of tape and marked each wire, 1, 2, 3 so it is easier to put back together. Unplug each wire.
Now you have them unplugged and ungrounded.

Go back to where the wires go in. There is a rubber plug around the wires going into the box to keep water out. This is in there tightly, but I just carefully, pulled on it and it started to move. I guess you could try some WD40 on them too, if if could get down into the sides. After a little pulling they pop right out.

The gasket on the lid for the box is like $70 so be careful with it. I cleaned everything up, but the inside was very clean.
Look around and you will start to recognize the pieces in the box.

Since I'm having issues with this one motor, I bought ba second brain box for $250 out of of totaled but. that was running, so I am going to build this one up and just swap out the one on my boat. Once I know this engine is running good, I will do the other one.

I was also told that my key issue with it not turning off is the safety switch in the plug hatch. So I'm going to replace it. A guy in Florida told me that as long as it is dry you have no problems but as soon as it gets wet, bam, it won't shut off. And that;'s what mine is doing.

I'm throwing away my old seat sliders tonight. Since I had my seats done, I replaced them cause they where beat, but if anyone whats any parts off of them, let me know.

Did you take out the electrical box before you began replacing your wires? I'm needing to replace the starter solenoid inside the same box and the location of the box is the worst. I looked around and couldn't find any mounting bolts for the box to pull it so I have been working with the box mounted, which is super tight, so much so I can't reach the bolt holding all the grounding wires in place.

 

[Ronald Dillow]

Ok so on my second engine, I tried to replace the wires while the box was still mounting in the boat. LOL do yourself a huge favor and unmount it from the wall!! I started without unmounting it and after an hour said screw it and took it off.
To remove the box, you have to take the pan on the swim deck out. It has about 200 millon screws. Easy to do with a power screw driver. It is tight coming out the first time. At this point you might want to replace the clean out plug gaskets. Anyhow, once you have the pan out, you will see the mufflers, bulge pump and a lot of other neat things. There are 3 bolts that hold the unit on the wall. I was able to crawl on to the back of the boat to hold the unit while unscrewing the bolts.
Once unscrewed, you have enough room to lay the box flat. Another good tip is to cut the nylon wire ties for all the wires running to the box. Gives you a little more room and they are easy to tie back up after the fact. Make sure you follow tq specs when putting the cover back on the box. I think its 4nm. anyhow any othe r?? just ask

 

[JAY NAP]

I know this is an old post...
Just have to say Nicely done....

Thanks.
Jay

 

[Ronald Dillow]

Thank you!