scopeusa
Jet Boat Addict
- Messages
- 72
- Reaction score
- 39
- Points
- 107
- Location
- Providenciales
- Boat Make
- Yamaha
- Year
- 2008
- Boat Model
- SX
- Boat Length
- 23
What miraculously disappeared, reappeared with vengeance, the starboard motor just quit. So I laid her up in the shop while I was off travelling in the states. I decided the easiest thing (for me to do) was switch out the starter relays so I purchased a pair from Yamaha Sports Plaza close to $50 each cheaper than where I got the boat from. Thanks to speedling for his FAQ, it was well worth the read and translated to the SX230HO pretty much exactly. When I removed the 12V plug connections I almost dropped a small blue seal that is embedded in the socket. Its worth keeping a close look out for these, finding one after it has been dropped might not be so easy! I just stuck blue masking tape over the ends of the sockets to ensure that while I was moving the leads around and pulling them back wards to free up enough movement in the loom they did not fall out. The spark plug lead collective zip ties on the back of the block on my engines were the type which you can release and reuse. One engine tie was tight not allowing any backwards movement the other was quite loose.
Being a bit of a butter fingers I was not relishing replacing the screws for the battery lead and starter motor cables whilst laying across the air filters, the thread is only a few turns and my cable eyes refused to sit flat on the relays. Knowing I was going to drop at least one I resorted using the end of an cut down cardboard box 8" x 3" and laid a terry towel in the bottom and wedged it directly under the power cable connection. When I dropped it, it fell in the box and did not bounce. The other thing I found was that the screws on the power lead covers were well tight as were the screws holding the cables themselves. I was not comfortable with the feel of the screwdriver and there is little room to get a direct purchase on the head and not wanting to chew the heads I resorted to using a small pair of vice grips on the screwdriver to get the initial crack whilst exerting enough pressure. I used dielectric grease to fill the cavities under the cover which just squeezed out when tightened down, overkill, I guess so.
I was surprised to find that one of my ECU PCB controllers, neither ever having been replaced, was potted in epoxy yet the other was in a box, both being held in place by zip ties.
When the big moment came, both engines cranked up instantly. Thanks again, contributors to this site have saved more than one catastrophe!
Being a bit of a butter fingers I was not relishing replacing the screws for the battery lead and starter motor cables whilst laying across the air filters, the thread is only a few turns and my cable eyes refused to sit flat on the relays. Knowing I was going to drop at least one I resorted using the end of an cut down cardboard box 8" x 3" and laid a terry towel in the bottom and wedged it directly under the power cable connection. When I dropped it, it fell in the box and did not bounce. The other thing I found was that the screws on the power lead covers were well tight as were the screws holding the cables themselves. I was not comfortable with the feel of the screwdriver and there is little room to get a direct purchase on the head and not wanting to chew the heads I resorted to using a small pair of vice grips on the screwdriver to get the initial crack whilst exerting enough pressure. I used dielectric grease to fill the cavities under the cover which just squeezed out when tightened down, overkill, I guess so.
I was surprised to find that one of my ECU PCB controllers, neither ever having been replaced, was potted in epoxy yet the other was in a box, both being held in place by zip ties.
When the big moment came, both engines cranked up instantly. Thanks again, contributors to this site have saved more than one catastrophe!
