jetboater4life
Jetboaters Captain
- Messages
- 1,680
- Reaction score
- 615
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- 247
- Location
- Rochester, MN 55901
- Boat Make
- Yamaha
- Year
- 2010
- Boat Model
- X
- Boat Length
- 21
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I had a few friends/neighbors helping me last night and one of them took the old relay and tested it and said it was working fine but he didn't have a load on the high current terminals which may cause it to stick closed.You could apply 12vdc to the old one and see if the relay closes and then remove the 12vdc and see if it remains closed.
I am not sure and didn't notice it until you mentioned it. I can inspect it more tonight.What is the blue substance on the old relay? Almost looks like silicone caulk oozing out.
I am the second owner and bought the boat in 2012 from Family Power sports in Lubbuck, TX. I put it up for bid on uship.com and had it flatbedded to my house in MN without anything more than the dealer's word that it was in good running condition. The dealer sold it new to it's first owner and sent me all the maintenance records. Everything worked out as it's been a great boat for the last 12 years.Did you buy this boat new?
The starter shouldn't be cranking the engine at all because power to it should be killed when the switch is turned off. I replaced the starter solenoid and now it is intermittently working. I'm convinced I have some sort of wiring issue from the switch to the starter solenoid. Some how that wire is staying powered when then switch turns off. It's not the switch because I have swapped starboard and port switches and problem stays with the port engine.New Starter should solve the issue........sounds like corrosion in the starter is not allowing the starter shaft/gear to pull off the ring gear of the flywheel. The spring inside the starter is what pulls the shaft back even a bad bearing....... allows the shaft to miss aligned and not retrack as it should.
Just a thought
Yes and it does not follow the ignition key switch. It stays with the port engine. So I've ruled out the ignition switches.Ya you are right I was not thinking........DID you ever swap the ignition key switches to see if it follows the key?
I believe the solenoid is of a mechanical design where the magnetic field from an electric current causes a magnet to close the contacts and allow the large current to pass from the battery to the starter. You are right about the approach. Disconnecting the line from the solenoid to the starter is important. It will allow me to do the tests as you suggest above. I had planned on doing it so that I didn't burn out the starter while looking to see where the switch circuit was getting it's voltage from. This assumes the solenoid isn't sticking closed and I don't think it is since it's brand new and the solenoid I pulled out seemed to work just fine, however I was only testing for continuity across the contacts when energizing the solenoid.I suggest you disconnect the line from the solenoid to the starter and measure voltage from that terminal to ground. Then try starting multiple times to see if it ever stays stuck in closed position, sending the 12vdc. Am I correct in thinking that solenoid is a solid state switch? They are historically more difficult to trouble shoot. Any transient voltage going to them may trigger the gate.