Starter Relay Stuck CLOSED???

[ta421]

I asked this same question on another thread but I wanted this easier to search because it is a different problem. Several posts on starter relays going bad and we all know how to jump them. I am having the opposite, my relay is stuck closed and the starter is continually trying to start. Anyone ever seen or heard of it? And let me say this, when it happens in the middle of the lake and you cannot find a wrench to pull the positive battery cable that started can create lots of smoke!

Throw me some ideas, and FYI I already pulled the harness for that ignition switch and no effect

 

[tdonoughue]

I had a car where this was a problem. Yes, pretty messy. In my case, the starter was getting stuck on the flywheel (which was getting pretty chewed up by this point). Ultimately solved it by putting some grease on the flywheel so that the starter could flip back. Also, I checked the shims between the starter and the engine--if they are too thin then the starter can get stuck, too. In a car (and I assume it is the same with our engines), the solenoid engages, which is a large electromagnet which a) moves the starter gear into the flywheel teeth, and b) in the same motion, connects the battery to the starter motor, which doth turn. Problem is when the starter gear gets stuck on teh flywheel, the battery remains connected to the starter motor and just keeps trying to start...

 

[Trannyguy]

I don’t know if it would apply in this case but older ford diesels when they had one bad battery it would make a low voltage situation and the lack of voltage would make the solenoid stock and continue cranking until you pulled the cable. Probably a long shot but it might be worth it to try a different battery

 

[Beachbummer]

So powering down your master switch should have had the same effect right? No need to remove the positive cable, although that would work too!

If the solenoid is stuck closed, you could power off and kill master switch, the check continuity between positive battery cable and positive cable going to starter.

If your electrical box has that little door on it you can check the solenoid in isolation, just open the little door and check continuity of the relay with the boat master switch off...if the relay shows closed/active then you know its bad and needs to be replaced.

I had it happen on a car too once (relay stuck closed). Blew a fusible link after about 30 seconds. The car had started too...Weird stuff.

 

[Beachbummer]

You can access the relay leads easily if you electrical box has a little window/door on it to peek. You will find the cables have rubber boot covering the metal and bolts. but you can carefully expose the cables by dragging the boot down across the cable. Not my pictures, but I realized the window was there when I replaced my relay that was randomly not working every now and then, (later failing every other time, then almost not working. I should have taken the hint sooner but my luck was such it did not leave me stranded.) You can jump the relay through the window too, so with some screw drivers and care you could start the boat through here if the relay ever fails open in the water.

Best of Luck

 

[ta421]

So powering down your master switch should have had the same effect right? No need to remove the positive cable, although that would work too!

If the solenoid is stuck closed, you could power off and kill master switch, the check continuity between positive battery cable and positive cable going to starter.

If your electrical box has that little door on it you can check the solenoid in isolation, just open the little door and check continuity of the relay with the boat master switch off...if the relay shows closed/active then you know its bad and needs to be replaced.

I had it happen on a car too once (relay stuck closed). Blew a fusible link after about 30 seconds. The car had started too...Weird stuff.

No sir the master switch had now effect

 

[ta421]

Well I pulled both relays I found that the last time someone worked on it they used some cheap relay that did not fit correctly. Not sure how or why but the relay is bad and stuck. New one on order!

 

[ta421]

Update: I pulled my relay and it is not the factory and was not positioned correctly. I swapped it with the other motor and same issue, New relay on order

 

[Beachbummer]

I have confirmed that in my 2008 boat that cable is powered off the switch.

Since you have already found suspect prior work..I would humbly suggest you follow those cables and put them behind the master switch and not direct to the battery. There is no reason for those big wires to bypass the master switch and be hot all the time. It sure would have come handy when this happened.

 

[the MfM]

I put one these in my boat. Didn’t like have direct to battery cables for the starters without fuse protection.

 

[Beachbummer]

Did you get a short run of red cable to match? remember what gauge it was? This is a very good idea. It seems specially important as our starters age and potentially draw more than they are supposed to if they fail.

 

[the MfM]

Did you get a short run of red cable to match? remember what gauge it was? This is a very good idea. It seems specially important as our starters age and potentially draw more than they are supposed to if they fail.

I redid my engine bay wiring when I added my stereo. My boat didn’t even have a master switch from the factory. Not sure what size cables I made up but I know it’s heavier then what is on the starters.

When one of my starters was going bad I noticed the cable was getting awfully warm. Which is why I got the breaker. Wasn’t sure what size to get; went with the 100 amp. Haven’t had any nuisance trips. And I can crank both engines at the same time without it tripping. (2 strokes)