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Steering Cable Lubrication all AR's SX 's etc etc etc

Geoff Cooper

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I understand this has been covered before but i do it from the helm so have a read and see what you think, My friend Ben has just brought a Yamaha Jet Boat so I've been helping him with a few jobs and one was to sort his steering cables out, I decided to do mine after as it's been a while since i did them, I left Ben with my lube pipe and when i went to collect it i found he had very kindly made a better one for me so i used that, Some time ago i brought a cheap and cheerful Syphon pump off Ebay for a few dollars and found it very useful doing this job as it can be held very easy, Ok here goes let me know what you think.

IMG_20160714_104237.jpg Here's the Syphon pump off Ebay just a few dollars and you can reverse it for a normal hand air pump

IMG_20160714_113359.jpg
Ok unscrew the the clock assembly and just move it away from the dashboard and if you look down and move the steering wheel you will see the compensater moving up and down as you turn the steering wheel from side to side, Remove the 2 nuts that hold the cables into the locating block and turn the wheel and you may have to jiggle the cables a little to release them from the block and also to undo the inner nut, After you have the cables out of the block you can turn the steering wheel and the block will move allowing you plenty of room to work If you look further down the cables you can see another securing block which can be loosened if you need to but I've never had to do that with mine.

IMG_20160714_114239.jpg IMG_20160714_114239_1.jpg About 3 ft of clear plastic tubing and a tire valve at one end preferably glued in place, I use a small oil bottle to fill the tube it saves any mess, Leave about 1 ft of clear tube with no oil in so as not to spill any when fixing the tube in place, Push the tube down behind the helm so there's no oil coming out of the tube and connect the end of the pipe by just pushing it neatly over the outer and inner steering cable and securing it with a jubilee clip

IMG_20160714_115034_1.jpg

You can now see the block is out of the way and the steering cables are easy to get at, You can see the plastic pipe over the outer cable and being secured with the jubilee clip

IMG_20160714_121303.jpg

You can use a bicycle pump if you want to or a car foot pump, Gently pump the oil down the cable, I tend to go the the back of the boat and move the steering by hand a little to help things along while there's pressure in the pipe,

IMG_20160714_121320.jpg

You can see the air bubbles coming up as the oil is forced into the cable, If you prefer you can just leave it over night and leave some pressure in the pipe and let gravity do the work also but don't forget to put a newspaper on the floor at the back to catch any oil that runs out of the cable,

IMG_20160714_122146.jpg

If your leaving it overnight just attach a cable tie gently around the pipe so you can slide it to the level of the oil and then in the morning you can see how much has gone into the cable, of course you can do the same from the jet pump but i find you get oil coming out of the connection where the cable goes through the hull so i do it from the helm, It's not a big job, After the oil has come through remove the pipe and replace the steering block onto the cables not forgetting to put the locking nut on first and then just tighten the cable securing nuts and screw the clock assembly back in but before you do that turn the wheel both ways and see the difference, Job done
 

Zarrella

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@Geoff Cooper

When I read the title....I expected to see a half naked girl lubricating your cable!
 

bgood188

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Great write up. I do have a couple question

1) what size clear hose? I think I have read 1/2 ID. Is that correct?
2) what type of oil do you use?
3) the big question. How did you make the clear hose with the tire valve on it?
 

Bruce

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@Geoff Cooper, have you checked the underside of your reverse cables in the bilge where they pass thru the hull? Mine looked like this. They were still working!

image.jpeg
 

KXCam22

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bgood188,
Half inch ID fits over the cable jacket nicely. For the valves you can buy shrader (air) valves that have a pipe thread end. They are piping type and not tire tube ones. You thread that into the clear hose and put a hose clamp on the seal it and keep it from coming out when under pressure. Cam.
 

bgood188

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bgood188,
Half inch ID fits over the cable jacket nicely. For the valves you can buy shrader (air) valves that have a pipe thread end. They are piping type and not tire tube ones. You thread that into the clear hose and put a hose clamp on the seal it and keep it from coming out when under pressure. Cam.
Thanks. That helps a bunch
 

Geoff Cooper

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Great write up. I do have a couple question

1) what size clear hose? I think I have read 1/2 ID. Is that correct?
2) what type of oil do you use?
3) the big question. How did you make the clear hose with the tire valve on it?
Ok here's what to do.

Go to your local tire center and get a valve.
Take the valve to your local DIY center and try the valve in whatever clear pipe they have you want it so you cannot push the valve inside as you will find when you put the end of the pipe into hot water the valve will go in without a problem about half inch pipe should be ok just see what they have, I used epoxy resin to fit the valve after i had got the pipe flexible in hot water, The pipe will be very flexible so not worry about fitting the valve.
I use whatever oil is available if the steering is tight you can use releasing oil to start with until it becomes loose and then use a thicker oil after, I found that it helps if you move the Jet pumps from side to side while there's pressure on the pipe at the helm end, Put some newspaper under the Jetpumps as the oil will leak all over the floor, You can leave some pressure in the pipe overnight and just let the oil work it's way through if the steering is tight and i just put a cable tie loosely around the pipe to show me how much oil has gone through the cables,
I think i have answered your questions if not just tell me and good luck.
 

KXCam22

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I find that the threaded schrader valve is easy. Buy the one that is 3/8 NPT (national pipe thread) which is actually about 1/2" OD. Below is a pic. It will thread into any flexible pipe quite nicely, then use a small hose clamp over the pipe to keep it sealed under pressure. I like Geoffs clear pipe idea. I always use automotive hose but then you can't see how much oil is left in the hose. Cam.
 

bgood188

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Ok here's what to do.

Go to your local tire center and get a valve.
Take the valve to your local DIY center and try the valve in whatever clear pipe they have you want it so you cannot push the valve inside as you will find when you put the end of the pipe into hot water the valve will go in without a problem about half inch pipe should be ok just see what they have, I used epoxy resin to fit the valve after i had got the pipe flexible in hot water, The pipe will be very flexible so not worry about fitting the valve.
I use whatever oil is available if the steering is tight you can use releasing oil to start with until it becomes loose and then use a thicker oil after, I found that it helps if you move the Jet pumps from side to side while there's pressure on the pipe at the helm end, Put some newspaper under the Jetpumps as the oil will leak all over the floor, You can leave some pressure in the pipe overnight and just let the oil work it's way through if the steering is tight and i just put a cable tie loosely around the pipe to show me how much oil has gone through the cables,
I think i have answered your questions if not just tell me and good luck.
Thanks. Very helpful
 
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