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Steering cable replacement

osins74

Jet Boat Lover
Messages
32
Reaction score
15
Points
77
Location
Ottawa
Boat Make
Yamaha
Year
2018
Boat Model
SX
Boat Length
19
Hello, yes another steering cable replacement post. I have a 2018 SX195, and in the last couple seasons the steering has become pretty stiff. So after reviewing the various posts decided to order the cable and complete the replacement myself. Unfortunately my boat is still in storage and I’ll only be able to pick it up Saturday Morning, so can’t take a look to see how it’s setup. That being said, this is my first attempt at this type of project so was hoping for some guidance and advice from this forum. The following are the steps that I'll be taking, with some questions as well:

1. Remove the seat cushion and back rest to access the helm compartment.
2. Take note of how the cables are connected to the steering box.
3. Remove the cables from the steering column.
4. Remove the clean-out tray.
5. Remove the cable at the U-connector on the jet.
6. Remove the U-connector from the cable.
7. Remove the nut and washer using the o2 sensor socket.
8. Remove silicon/sealant from interior nut.
9. Once old cable is free, remove gas tank access and cut all ties.
10. Attach new cable to old and feed thru the hull to replace.
- Question: Is it "better" to start from the helm or the stern?
11. Pass cable through transom:
- Couple questions:
- My replacement cable only has one washer, assuming that its for the outside.
- Pretty basic question, what's the best way to apply the 4200 to ensure a proper seal? (I might be overthinking this LOL)
12. Once new cable is in place reconnect to the steering box.
- Question: Is there any additional maintenance that should be completed on the steering box?
13. Reconnect U-connector to new cable.
14. Reconnect U-connector at the jet.
15. Replace and reseal clean-out tray. (Any pointers on this would be welcome as well)

Thanks to all in advance, appreciate the help.
 
I don’t think you need 4200. Mine had clear silicone from the factory and I did the same when I replaced them. There’s no real pressure on the seal.

You’ll start from the helm or really the middle of the boat. You can’t push that whole cable through the little transom hole, the end of the cable just sticks out through it.

Rest of your plan looks good to me.
 
Already have the 4200, might stop at the local boat supply store tomorrow and see what they have for silicone. Appreciate the reply @AZMark, going to tackle this one Saturday.
 
If you already have the 4200, I would just use that. Won't hurt (and won't be ultra permanent, like 5200). And if you don't use it, after a year or so it goes bad anyway... Just a bit of overkill. But then again, I overkill frequently on my boat...
 
@tdonoughue That makes sense, didn't realize it went bad. I'll stick with the 4200. @Danielmailin watched that video a few times, figured this will be the most time consuming, and stressful part of the project.
 
"- Couple questions:
- My replacement cable only has one washer, assuming that its for the outside"
.....Mine had only 1 as well, it went outside....there was a nut that went inside and fit in a recessed that was kind of cut into the fiberglass.
I used marine silicon pretty heavy around the hole and the fittings and just wiped it off (disposalbe gloves and paper towel) little messy but rather it be sealed well than look perfect. May help to put some masking tape around the area if you are worried.
If it makes you feel better....I tried to lube my cable before replacing it and wasted alot of time, never made a difference but that was my experience.
When I cut the old cable open it looked pretty bad (was only a 2017 boat)
good luck!
 
@jamesk thanks for confirming the washer, that's what I gathered from the forum but did see some mentions of a washer on the inside so just wanted to confirm. I'm planning to do the same, go heavy with the sealant around the hole and all the fittings.
 
When braking the cable loose, use a combination of long sockets and a mallet

See:

Also see the following YouTube video:


We have a '17 FSH190. I saw this video and felt confident with the removal, but ran into an issue. I was tapping the existing wire in after removing the nut and washer on the stern exterior. However, even after removing the glob of silicone on the inside of the hull, the cable won't budge. I can't see anything else holding it in place and have a hard time believing there is still such resistance. For those that have done this, am I missing something?
 
Mine was really stuck on there. I had to use a long tube and a 20lbs weight to whack on it to get it to move.

Since yours is much newer hopefully it will be more compliant.

Best of luck.
 
Here is what I'm looking at and trying to tap it out is not working. Do I need to loosen the bilge side? It's seemingly impossible to get a socket or vice grip in there. I removed all the silicone inside the bilge side and the nut and washer on the stern side already, but no luck when trying to tap it out.
 

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Do you have the new cable on hand? Compare to it. I found a steel tube that was larger than the black cable and smaller than the nut on the metal fitting in the end, placed the tube over the backed out nut, and whacked it many times with a 20 pound anchor, and it finally gave. I tried many useless things before, but that was the one that finally worked.

Good luck. This is the hard part. Literally.
 
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