Stereo Upgrade - Let's keep in Simple!

[Jump Right In]

Gentlemen -

I know there are many of you who take this "stereo" concept much more seriously than I ever well, but I do want to upgrade my existing head unit. I want to put in something that is bluetooth ready (with clarity may be being the number one concern of the swap). I have a 2010 212X with complete factory system. I can see swapping out the speakers maybe next year, and have thought about maybe even adding a sub (something I have never done before to anything).

My thought is that if I get a good bluetooth unit, than the "Iphone holder" on the side of the helm becomes irrelevant and I wondered if that would be a good place to cut a larger hole and install a sub... as I said, I don't know much about this so that may be a dumb idea.

So, here is what I can see evolving (my existing swimdeck platform remote has been disconnected as it was shorting out last year)...

1) New head unit
2) Should have a matching brand wired remote for swim platform available
3) Possibly the addition of a sub in the helm area (acress from the door to the storage/head area)
4) Replacement of factory speakers

More than likely this will take place as time and existing upgrades get completed (I like many here, seem to buy too many upgrades and have a box full already that still have to be completed). In looking through decks, it would appear that Clarion and Fusion have quality products available, and I also see Kenwood has some newer items as well. Please make any recommendations. I will have a power source under the helm shortly (a four switch blue sea module for power distribution) if I have to run an amp, but once again, the simpler the better provided I can get crystal clear sound. Let me know if there are any questions, or any other information you would need to know in order to offer advice.

 

[JWPrendergast]

If you want crystal clear sound, you're probably going to want an amp. Adding one can waken up even your stock speakers, and the installation isn't all that bad either. This will all depend on what kind of a budget youre trying to stick to. Are your factory speakers Polk?

 

[jetboater4life]

I've been waiting to make a post like this, but @Jump Right In you beat me to it! My situation (stock boat speakers and HU) is identical, same boat even

The boat has 4 speakers hooked up to the JBL head unit, and my swim deck remote is dead too. I purchased 6 Polk db651s last year from @Cowboy Casey and plan to replace the stock speakers and add two more either in the cabin or on the swim deck. My research has lead me to put the Fusion 600 at the top of my list. I've never done a sub either so that is intriguing.

 

[jcyamaharider]

Clarion M303.....( This can de debated like ford vs chevy ) Is the head unit I choose after some research. Very user friendly, has a rear remote for the transom and it also has an rf remote that works away from the boat up to 50 feet. I have all of my internal speakers ( polk mm651's ) and one 12" sub ran off of a MBquart 5 channel amp. Then I have my 2 wake tower speakers ran off of another MBquart (4 channel) amp. Got to leave room for expansion. Then for extra bass I have another 12" sub hooked up to an additional amp for that extra sand bar action. The system sounds really good and is loud enough when wakesurfing. I will be adding HCLD tower speakers next year along with 2 10" JL IB subs. As for the head unit, super clear with all of the power and the Bluetooth feature is something I didn't know was so handy until I had it. Now I want it for everything. If I had to do it all over again I would buy this unit again.

 

[Jump Right In]

So is one amp enough to drive four speakers and one small sub?
Also, would a sub mounted here (where the iPod holder currently is) even be effective? Let alone allow the clearance for the door?
What about behind the driver seat in the area photographed? Do sub's need sealed compartments?

I know @jetboater4life and I are in the same boat (pun intended), but I am not sure if our starting equipment is the same - see pictures.

 

[jetboater4life]

@Jump Right In you are right, I have the aquatic nav stuff and it looks just like yours.

 

[jcyamaharider]

As far as the amp powering what you want there is an amp out there that will do it with no issues at all. I am sure the JL fans here will recommend the M600.6 or any other amp. I really like the 5 channel MBquart amp I just bought but it isn't class D, but for the cost you can't beat it. Sub location I would go with either location 2 beside the captain chair or location 3 behind the captain chair. I am going to be putting in one in either of the 2 locations and one on the other side of the boat where my rope cuddy is in the cabin. The sub I am going to be putting in is an infinite baffle JL audio sub. IB subs do not require a box but a compartment separation. One thing you will want to do is to protect the 6-1/2" speakers installed buy a cover. I have yet to find one but I have seen them. I am by know means an expert in this aspect just my opinion and following guidelines that I have learned over the years and on the board. Just my little disclaimer....lol

 

[jawsf16]

Take a look at class d car amps. I have two pioneers powering polks and a bazooka sub tube.

 

[steined]

I used this Polk amp: Class D, about $349 - 399 or so. http://www.polkaudio.com/products/pad5000_5

It will run up to 8 4 ohm cabin speakers and 1 IB JL Sub without issue. I really like it. Only been running the sub for a day with it though! All last season with the cabin speakers. So far so good.

I'd buy an amp first, see how the speakers sound, then grab speakers and a IB Sub and go from there. I'm very happy with my setup (Polk db 6.5" and a 10" JL IB Sub).

 

[steined]

Don't ask me about stereo's, the one in the LS 2000 and the speakers have pissed me off today - it is definitely getting an upgrade to one that works and actually puts out sound.

Break Out Another Thousand! Luckily you are in a good spot on cost basis!

 

[Jump Right In]

@steined, where is your 10" sub mounted? Is it an enclosed environment? At its furthest point, how far would it extend beyond the flat mounting surface?

 

[Lawson2479]

@Jump Right In I mounted a sub at the helm. The only issue is that the bass makes the door rattle. I put a strip of window insulation to cushion it but I think I'm going too add some more. Here is a pic. A amp makes a big difference to the sound.

 

[Jump Right In]

I've been waiting to make a post like this, but @Jump Right In you beat me to it! My situation (stock boat speakers and HU) is identical, same boat even

The boat has 4 speakers hooked up to the JBL head unit, and my swim deck remote is dead too. I purchased 6 Polk db651s last year from @Cowboy Casey and plan to replace the stock speakers and add two more either in the cabin or on the swim deck. My research has lead me to put the Fusion 600 at the top of my list. I've never done a sub either so that is intriguing.

I haven't measured yet, are the standard speakers 6.5" units?

 

[Jump Right In]

@Jump Right In I mounted a sub at the helm. The only issue is that the bass makes the door rattle. I put a strip of window insulation to cushion it but I think I'm going too add some more. Here is a pic. A amp makes a big difference to the sound.View attachment 5879 View attachment 5878

So you did nothing more than mount it with the magnet part extending into your head/storage area? No enclosed boxes, etc? (sorry for all my technical terms, this is not my day job)

 

[steined]

@Jump Right In - I don't have the same boat. I'd personally avoid mounting in areas that would be prone to rattle. I'd also STRONGLY suggest you mount it on a flat surface

Here is my install post: https://jetboaters.net/threads/jl-audio-10-ib-install-progress-and-question.1675/

IB (Infinite Baffle) subs don't require an enclosure. They aren't as "efficient" as sealed systems, and the sound a little different. But I am very happy with mine and wasn't looking for huge bass, however this CAN deliver what I consider an obscene amount of it if wanted!

 

[steined]

The depth from the back of the speaker ring to the back of the magnet of the JL is about 6" - You can see the specs here: http://www.jlaudio.com/m10ib5-cg-wh-marine-audio-m-series-subwoofer-drivers-91780

If you use a spacer like I needed on a concave surface it is slightly less. I stronly suggest you don't mount on a concave surface if you can avoid it. @Rigger had his in a great location that I would have copied had I known it would fit there. He used the WetSounds IB sub. I think the general consensus is that the JL and Wet Sounds IB subs are pretty much the only options out there.

 

[Lawson2479]

So you did nothing more than mount it with the magnet part extending into your head/storage area? No enclosed boxes, etc? (sorry for all my technical terms, this is not my day job)

No not the head area. I mounted it in the area behind the steering wheel. I can't remember if the 210s have an access door to that area or not. No enclosed box.

 

[jetboater4life]

@Lawson2479 Unfortunately the 210/212s don't have an access door which makes the area very difficult to in fact "access".

 

[Jump Right In]

@Rigger do you have a picture of where you mounted yours? I think there would be enough room behind the drivers seat and it would be nicely tucked away. Wiring can be accessed through the removable rear bench cushion. I was just playing around on the JL website. If I only plan on one sub, should i be looking at an 8" or 10" unit and 175 max or 250 max? If anyone knows any reasonable cost, highly quality installers in the south Michigan area, I would almost be tempted.

 

[dan144k]

I used this Polk amp: Class D, about $349 - 399 or so. http://www.polkaudio.com/products/pad5000_5

It will run up to 8 4 ohm cabin speakers and 1 IB JL Sub without issue. I really like it. Only been running the sub for a day with it though! All last season with the cabin speakers. So far so good.

Hi Steined

This amp sounds interesting. I can install and wire an amp but have very little sound experience beyond that.
1. Is any special wiring needed to run 8 speakers at 4 ohms?
2. How do you control volume and different speaker zones?
3. Where is your amp located and what size wire did you run?

thanks dan