Stereo Upgrade - Let's keep in Simple!

[steined]

I ran 4 ga marine wire directly to a Fuse block terminal similar to yours, only I didn't run the amp through the battery switch: http://www.amazon.com/Blue-Sea-Syst...00292746&sr=8-13&keywords=fuse+block+terminal

1.) The 8 speakers would be running at 2 ohms, which it can do. Nothing special there

2.) 2 ways. My head unit has 2 preamp outputs. I used each output and set my "base level" via the gain for the front and rear channels. I set my front to be slightly less than my rear. On my boat the front is the bow and tower tweeters (which I'll likely replace with cabin 6.5" eventually). Then if I need more adjustment I use the fader. It isn't simple to do, but it can be done. I wish I had more control, but I am fine with this limitation in light of the cost to get full zone control and more amp channels.

3.) Most people would probably be against it, but I mounted my amp to the base of the dash area using 4 full length strips of industrial velcro. When I was installing my sub I found out how strong that stuff actually is. It took more time to un stick the amp than it did to wire it up! It gets hot there, but I think it would get hot anywhere and I haven't had it go into protection yet. It sits at about a 30 degree angle if I had to guess.

 

[jetboater4life]

@steined Thanks for sharing. What size fuse did you use with your terminal block?

 

[steined]

@steined Thanks for sharing. What size fuse did you use with your terminal block?

200A for the Amp, 100A for "everything else". I have a spare 200A just in case.

 

[Sotally Tober]

@Lawson2479 Unfortunately the 210/212s don't have an access door which makes the area very difficult to in fact "access".

I mounted my 4 amps in the area you mentioned. It's actually easy to get back there, just remove the Starboard Bow Back Cushion that is up against the helm. It is a little tight back there but a good area on a 212 to mount them in.

 

[jetboater4life]

@Sotally Tober It looks like a pretty beefy power wire to run up there. What is the brand/model on those power distribution blocks?

 

[Sotally Tober]

Stinger Distribution Blocks: http://stingerelectronics.com/products.aspx?selectedcategoryid=13
and
multiple in-line Stinger Breakers: http://stingerelectronics.com/products.aspx?keyword=Breaker

I will be honest, I don't remember the models. I'm in Japan right now so I can't go out and check.

 

[MNdrifter]

I mounted my 4 amps in the area you mentioned. It's actually easy to get back there, just remove the Starboard Bow Back Cushion that is up against the helm. It is a little tight back there but a good area on a 212 to mount them in.

View attachment 5884

Now you tell me. I didn't know the seat back came off until I was already stuck. My wife had to help pull me out.

 

[Rigger]

@Rigger do you have a picture of where you mounted yours? I think there would be enough room behind the drivers seat and it would be nicely tucked away. Wiring can be accessed through the removable rear bench cushion. I was just playing around on the JL website. If I only plan on one sub, should i be looking at an 8" or 10" unit and 175 max or 250 max? If anyone knows any reasonable cost, highly quality installers in the south Michigan area, I would almost be tempted.

Here's my WS SW-10FA on my "classic" 2007 SX230HO. This was powered by a JL MHD 900/5 - 500 watts to the sub. It was perfect for what I wanted.



And now here's my WS XS-10FA on our AR240HO. This is powered by an WS SYN2 so it's 700 watts @4 ohm's. Needless to say it REALLY enhances the music

 

[Jump Right In]

Does anyone have any experience with Infinity Marine products and Infinity Kappa amps. I have an opportunity to buy HK / Infinity products at a ridiculous staff purchase cost. I am looking at the Infinity 612M (6.5" speakers) and possible the Infinity Kappa 5-channel Class D Amp (see attached specs). I understand its an "car audio" amp, but where the amp will be mounted under the helm, should be as dry as a car... and basically if it gets wet, the boat has probably sunk!

I could hypothetically get a pair of the wake tower speakers as well, the 6000M, but may leave that until next season if I take this really seriously. I would guess I would need an additional amp to power those as well though. Is there any other good place on a 212X to install a third set of 6x9" or 6.5" speakers? Does anyone have experience with the Infinity Marine Line?

Also, if i was to do that, I would either need a seven channel amp (guessing it doesn't exist), or a 6 channel amp and an amp for the subwoofer. If I could add a pair of 6x9's and have the six speakers driven off an amp, could I get away without a sub??? I am learning a bit more as additional people post here and as I scour the internet. Once again, I beg the experts hear to throw in additional information. If the sub will make that much of a difference, I will probably still consider the JL or Wetsounds. I have young kids (and like someone else mentioned, a wife that always turns the volume down), so very loud music and lots of thumping isn't what I am after. Clear FULL range music is more my goal.

Let's leave the head unit out of the conversation for now, as I will have to secure that from a different vendor.

 

[RiverRat]

I installed the 612m's in my Bayliner about 6 years ago and have been pretty happy with them. I never had them on an amp though. I think I like the way the Polks in the new Yamaha sound even better though, and I'm anxious to run them through an amp to really see how they perform.

 

[RiverRat]

As for upgrading the new stereo I plan on keeping it simple as well. I plan on adding a 4 channel MTX marine amp for the stock Polks and I'm installing a 10" Kicker marine sub in a sealed enclosure on a MTX mono marine amp. This is all stuff I removed from my old boat. I'm also adding a second battery and a Perko battery switch.

 

[steined]

The only reason I can see not to get a car audio amp is the "potting" or conformal coating they likely use on Marine amp boards and the stainless hardware. Because of the condensation that is constantly occurring under the boat cover, in compartments, over night, during the day, etc, it will be a damp circuit board. Now I would think to a much lesser extent this would also happen in cars as well, so maybe the only consideration would be salt air and stainless / brass connectors, etc. Having done this on my previous boat, I knew I only wanted to do it once, so I got a marine amp. Just my $.02

 

[jcyamaharider]

X2 as to what @steined said. I pulled my cover back yesterday and both of my amps were covered in condensation.