Strange projection in my hood (Scarab 165/ 63 Hours)...

[Divouneh]

I have some deposits on my hood, it's coming each time I am using the boat.
This is what you could have after 2 hours on the water.
It look like water but the black spots ? Not particules.
It's not oil, coolant: my cooling fluid level is not moving.
5 minutes after leaving the dock, always less than 3000 rpm due to no wake zone, you can see what I have in my tape.
Did someone had this ?
As my boat is new (delivered in may 24), I went to the dealership workshop, they said run the boat... However I need to find why it's happen.
( I was suspecting the exhaust cooling water pump, but it's not ).
My motor is a basic 170hp without any turbo...

 

[Luc Lafreniere]

I don't have an answer. But I recommend you run the engine with the hood open and watch visually next time you're on the water. Hopefully you'll see where it's coming from. I've never seen something like this.

 

[Divouneh]

Hi Luc
I did running open hood**, my next test will be using the boat without the blower.
Opening the hood starting, closing the hood and going....
I will put a light in the compartment and a small camera. Remember it’s a very small volume, ....
Thanks for the reply.

 

[Divouneh]

Today test (more tape for testing)...
Starting without fan, just after the start few small black spots in the tape in the air inlet pipe.
It looks like the critical phase is the starting ????
For tomorrow, the oil filter is under a plastic bag : we will see.
I have some oil consumption, the level was little too high .

 

[Divouneh]

Oil filter packed for tests: expected tomorrow....

 

[Divouneh]

Today test, Cleary not the oil filter. The black point are coming from the carbon seal: Just when you start the engine: one spray and we are done.
I have no water inlet in the boat, but I had the same expérience as in this old thread:
"Yikes!! Have a new 255 Open ID with about 2 hours on the engines. Engine temp light came on so I took it back to the dealer. He found a coolant leak because a hose fitting was not properly tightened. He tightened it up, added coolant and then just to make sure all was well he emailed me: "We ran on the hose again for 20ish minutes and watched the cooling system cycle with the computer." And also, "We are going to hose run it one more time but I think we’ve got it ironed out for you." Sounds to me like that probably wrecked the seal. Unless there is some way to provide cooling to the heat exchangers while the boat is on the trailer. I do not have it back yet but I am very concerned that I will now have a really big problem. Am I right to be concerned?"

Thread 'Engine flush/Carbon Seal Issues'

Jun 1, 2017

I hope this information was passed to everyone when buying their boats. But, I feel as if we have to cover it in its own thread.

When flushing a rotax powered craft, try your best not to go over 2 minutes. There is a ring that seals the drive shaft of the pump to the engine called the "carbon seal".

This ring uses contact with the water within the shaft tube to cool itself. It is a wear item, and if it gets too hot, it will prematurely fail. When you flush your engine, it does not squirt water on this seal.

A carbon ring that doesn't seal correctly can sink a boat in...

• ScarabMike
• Replies: 21
• Forum: Rotax Engine Topics

• 
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The black particules are probably done during the flashing (less than 2 minutes ), when you start the engine it's rinse with the see water. After few rotation the sealing is done. By safety I will probably replace the carbon seal at the end of the season ....

 

[Luc Lafreniere]

You most definitely DO have a water inlet. But it cools the exhaust only. It's suppose to have pressure ONLY when the engine is running otherwise you risk getting water inside the engine.

The carbon seal is NEVER cooled out of water even if you have a hose attached. As such, you cannot run the engine out of water for more than 2 min maximum. In fact, you rarely need to do more than 1 min. I've never done more than 1 min.

Be very careful, your boat can literally sink! Extremely fast and unexpectedly! I would highly recommend getting this done asap. Then, never run the engine out of water for more than 1 min. And when you do, you need to cool the exhaust system.

1. Engine on.
2. Water pressure on.
3. Water pressure off.
4. Engine off.

In that particular order. All of that should be done in less than 1 min, 2 maximum.

Please read the BRP operator manual available online.

BRP GUIDES

www.operatorsguides.brp.com

Rotax, JPS, ANA = 2023, engine hp

 

[Divouneh]

Agree Luc
The water inlet is very low; I will do a clear video to claim the replacement from the seal at the dealer expense. I already sent few emails to point out the mistake they did. Fortunately I have another Rotax service to do it, if I don’t reach an acceptable deal.

 

[Divouneh]

It's definitively a carbon seal leak, see attached report.
It will be replace by a local workshop, not the dealer .
You have to go ahead when the dealer Island water sports In DE
has a so poor service...
Leak is small but spraying salt water in the compartment .
I expect to be back in the water this week ...

 

[Divouneh]

Repair done by Lacey PowerSports in NJ. I dropped the boat 8 am, it was ready at noon...
A good place to go if you have a jet: Lacey Power Sports, Inc. 1877JETPROS | Homepage