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SX 195 Overheat Alarm and Engine shutoff

DeeKranze

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First post and first jet boat (18 SX195), 3rd time out. Experienced something that made me very nervous. Was on a nice long stretch about 20 mins of WOT or close to it for most of it, and literally the boat shut right off and overheat alarm went off. First check was intake grate for something stuck and then checked the clean out port. Popped open the hood to the engine bay and you could feel the warmth right away. Boat was just serviced by a local marina with fresh Yamalube oil. I checked right before we went out and dipstick showed oil right to the top line and after checking again after overheat alarm, it did not even read on the dipstick. I always keep tool pouch and oil with me from owning past I/Os that burned oil so added about a half quart and it was back to normal again. Waited 20-25 mins and started engine and all was good....did not run WOT for remainder of trip but it ran strong. So curious, has anyone else experienced something similar before? Did I toast this engine or have reason to be concerned going forward? I am very thankful Yamaha has this shutoff feature for this type of case, otherwise I may have been really screwed. Granted, marina would/should warranty this without any issue. I did not see a spec of oil in the engine bay, nothing spit out or burnt smelling. Keeping my fingers crossed.
 

SamCF

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Probably did not hurt anything. These engines are known to heat soak, meaning that the factory cooling system is not adequate to maintain peak power.

Upgrading the intercooler would help, but I wouldn't run wide open for more than 2-3 minutes for any reason.
 

FLBulldogger

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I believe the heat soak issue for the 16's and later has been resolved, that's mainly a '15 and earlier SC 1.8 problem. I would get back to the marina get her level on the trailer or on the hard and check the oil again. If the tech at the marina isn't familiar with these engines he may not have added enough oil or didnt pay attention to how much he took out and then just added what he thought would do. Get the boat level and check the oil level if it is anything but where you saw it before call the tech out and find out how much he added. I would think you reacted quickly enough and thank goodness you had spare oil!
 

SamCF

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Heat soak is a problem on all supercharged Yamaha boats and some of the Waverunners. Some people don't notice it because they don't push their engines hard. None of the supercharged boats will perform at full potential for more than a few minutes in warm weather. If the oil is low it will heat soak much faster.

Probably 30 threads on this forum with poor performing supercharged boats.
 

FLBulldogger

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OK @SamCF you mention he should upgrade the intercooler, what intercooler would YOU upgrade to? I have a '18 195 and run it year round at sea level in salt water at water temps at times over 85 degrees and have not experienced "heat soak". If you look at the heat soak thread for the 195's I believe its more about altitude, load, activity and lastly expectations that aren't met, not an actual imperical data claim. So please help @DeeKranze out and give him an actual solution.
 

DeeKranze

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Thank you both for the replies @FLBulldogger @SamCF . I am going to get it level and check right away and I want to change the oil myself to see what it looks like. To be honest, I should have known better than to take it where I did to begin with as they are not a jet boat dealer. I have seen the threads and have purchased an oil extractor along with some fresh oil and filter. I suppose once I do that and get it back out, I will know the story. Where I run is in upstate NY on Lake Ontario, mainly. Water temp should have been plenty cool enough and pretty much at sea level. Prior to that happening, I was very impressed with the performance of this little 1.8L. I definitely learned my lesson though. Never going to run it WOT that long again or even close to it. I do not see upgrading the cooler anytime soon....unless I have no other choice.
 

FLBulldogger

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@DeeKranze I am envious that you can run at WOT for that long, on the open Gulf we have run for about 10 mins and the sea state is just too rough at 1 to 2 ft. IMHO I think you will be okay the way you are as long as you get the oil level squared away. Good Luck
 

DeeKranze

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@DeeKranze I am envious that you can run at WOT for that long, on the open Gulf we have run for about 10 mins and the sea state is just too rough at 1 to 2 ft. IMHO I think you will be okay the way you are as long as you get the oil level squared away. Good Luck
Thank you. One of the only benefits I can think of if we compare our hometown's...haha. Water temps up here right now are low 50 degrees until mid to late June, and Sunday when I had this happen, the lake was like glass...could not have asked for better boating condition's. Will definitely take your advice as my extractor and new oil is on it's way. Will post again with an update....and I suppose it wont hurt to start price checking for upgrading the inter cooler.
 

FLBulldogger

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Do the oil change on your own and see how that does before doing an "upgrade" that may or may not work. It's easy to spend someone elses money or time to do an upgrade that may not give you what you desire.
 

SamCF

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Do the oil change on your own and see how that does before doing an "upgrade" that may or may not work. It's easy to spend someone elses money or time to do an upgrade that may not give you what you desire.
This is why I don't post much here anymore. Condescending comments and people giving advice without knowledge.

The heat soak problem is mainly with the 1.8 SHO engines thru 2016. The 2017 came with the SVHO engine and has an upgraded intercooler and oil cooler. The SVHO is less likely to have heat soak problems, but will have power drop-off if pushed hard in warm weather or for extended periods.
Expectations of these boats are based on Yamaha advertising and reviews like BoatTest.com. On a hot day very few if any supercharged boats will perform to the buyers expectations based on these sources. It is well documented on this forum. You ask about evidence, just do a search here. You want to see data, just look here. Better yet, add your data. What is your RPM and MPH on a hot day? How long can you maintain that without a drop-off in performance. I know the response is "top speed isn't everything", I agree, but it is a common reference point to compare to other boats and expectations based on Yamaha advertising and BoatTest reviews.

I agree that the oil being low added to the problem and ultimately caused the engine shut down. These boats are very conservatively tuned, and will pull power drastically when they get hot to prevent damage. I have spent countless hours testing modifications and monitoring YDS to see results. bottom line is these engines get HOT.

So, If you want to run wide open for extended periods and still see the performance that most expect, you will need to upgrade your cooling system. The most proven upgrade is an intercooler with a dedicated cooling line. Search on this forum for FIZZLE intercooler or "Type 14" Intercooler. This is not an opinion, this is a proven upgrade on boats and Waverunners.

I'm not trying to spend anyones money, just trying to help. The OP's location would probably not require the intercooler upgrade unless he is determined to run WOT for extended periods and maintain top power.
 
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SamCF

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DeeKranze

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If someone based their purchase on this information how many would be 100% happy with the performance of their boat? How many can even run 50 mph consistently?

thanks for the reply and i have been doing some searches on here about cooling issues and fixes. Overall, as I was saying, I am very pleased with the performance....and as a first time Yamaha jet boat owner, I wasnt sure what to expect. It all makes sense now and kind of unbelievable I was able to run that long of a stretch and those kind of RPM's without issues sooner. To your knowledge, if I was to upgrade the intercooler, is it best to upgrade the whole thing with the upgraded BOV and lines, etc? I am looking at the type 14 on Frozenboost site and its really well priced at $150.00, but I am guessing it will not be compatible with the stock hoses, etc. Regardless, I am changing the oil tonight on a level service and want to water test again this coming weekend. Never going to push it that hard for that long again though.
 

SamCF

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The Type14 is a good upgrade, but it is a DIY mod. You will have to purchase many fittings, hoses and clamps to make it work. The Type 14 will attach to your stock lines with the right fittings, but will need a dedicated cooling line to see its full potential. You can tap the strainer plate or order a tapped plate.

The Fizzle can be purchased as a complete bolt on package. It can be had with no blow off, with a cheap blow off or with a high end blow off. I think the price ranges from $700 to $1000. In your location with cool water, it won't be as big of an upgrade than someone fighting high air and water temps.

The Blow Off valve is a really good upgrade to protect your supercharger clutch. Again, this may not be needed depending on your driving style. If you throttle down slowly and never jump waves you are OK. If you are always chopping the throttle under boost or running wide open in choppy water then the Blow Off is a must have. I'm on my 6th season with the stock supercharger clutch and no Blow Off valve. 3 of those seasons running double the stock boost pressure. It really depends on your driving style and type of water you ride in.

If I were you, I would get everything 100% on the boat first and see if you are happy with the performance. Sounds like it works good for you. Even with every cooling mod I wouldn't run wide open for more than a few minutes. Any time I exceed stock power levels it is in short bursts followed by plenty of cool down time before shutting down.
 
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DeeKranze

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Ok, so leveled boat...changed oil and filter myself. Oil level prior was not correct, so kind of starting from scratch here. Put back in 3.5 qts...ran20200527_190806.jpg20200527_190723.jpg it for 5 mins or so. Waited and checked and I just cannot tell with this disptick. I am guessing it needs more based off the lowest reading, but man these dipsticks are hard to read..or is it just me?
 

jEt_jAk

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Was water coming out of all 3 pissers? Also your oil looks ok based on that picture. They are heard to read with fresh oil.

Regarding heat soak, even on SVHO it happens. I’ve never seen it trigger the overheat alarm, but it will affect RPMs around 200-300 RPM. Mainly only happens in hot weather and warm water.
 

DeeKranze

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Was water coming out of all 3 pissers? Also your oil looks ok based on that picture. They are heard to read with fresh oil.

Regarding heat soak, even on SVHO it happens. I’ve never seen it trigger the overheat alarm, but it will affect RPMs around 200-300 RPM. Mainly only happens in hot weather and warm water.
Yes, water came out of all 3. I do no like these dipsticks, wish they had some cross hatch markings or something to make them a little easier to read. I know I will probably need to get it back in the water and do some more checks, I wont lie, my experience from last weekend, has me a little nervous. Lesson learned. I was on a good stretch of 15-20 mins of over 7k RPMs when the alarm and shutoff happened. Never again.
 

jEt_jAk

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My guess is something got stuck on intake grate, it’s a pretty small grate inside the pump assembly. Wish these boats had a temp gauge.
 

KevJul2019

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Ok, so leveled boat...changed oil and filter myself. Oil level prior was not correct, so kind of starting from scratch here. Put back in 3.5 qts...ranView attachment 120758View attachment 120759 it for 5 mins or so. Waited and checked and I just cannot tell with this disptick. I am guessing it needs more based off the lowest reading, but man these dipsticks are hard to read..or is it just me?
I believe in reading your dipstick your have to much oil. Should be between the two holes.
 

KevJul2019

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The Type14 is a good upgrade, but it is a DIY mod. You will have to purchase many fittings, hoses and clamps to make it work. The Type 14 will attach to your stock lines with the right fittings, but will need a dedicated cooling line to see its full potential. You can tap the strainer plate or order a tapped plate.

The Fizzle can be purchased as a complete bolt on package. It can be had with no blow off, with a cheap blow off or with a high end blow off. I think the price ranges from $700 to $1000. In your location with cool water, it won't be as big of an upgrade than someone fighting high air and water temps.

The Blow Off valve is a really good upgrade to protect your supercharger clutch. Again, this may not be needed depending on your driving style. If you throttle down slowly and never jump waves you are OK. If you are always chopping the throttle under boost or running wide open in choppy water then the Blow Off is a must have. I'm on my 6th season with the stock supercharger clutch and no Blow Off valve. 3 of those seasons running double the stock boost pressure. It really depends on your driving style and type of water you ride in.

If I were you, I would get everything 100% on the boat first and see if you are happy with the performance. Sounds like it works good for you. Even with every cooling mod I wouldn't run wide open for more than a few minutes. Any time I exceed stock power levels it is in short bursts followed by plenty of cool down time before shutting down.
When does boost start?
 

DeeKranze

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I believe in reading your dipstick your have to much oil. Should be between the two holes.
yes, you are right. I ended up removing about a half qt and got it down to where it should be. I switched to Mobile 1 10W40 4T, which I know is a whole diff topic, but that oil is so clear it was very hard to read while fresh.
 
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