Zarrella
Jetboaters Admiral
- Messages
- 2,170
- Reaction score
- 1,996
- Points
- 287
- Location
- Lake City, Florida
- Boat Make
- Yamaha
- Year
- 2008
- Boat Model
- Limited
- Boat Length
- 23
Welcome! Awesome idea!
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I toyed with that idea also, but decided against it. The reason it wasn't done is because there is the possibility that the speed increase can be activated on one button, and the oppsite command, speed decrease can be activated at the same time on the second button. I dought this would damage the computer, but it will send the computer conflicting information. What the computer does next is anyones quess. You can electrically interlock these switches, meaning when one button is pressed it also disables the other at the same time, but this requires two DPDT buttons to replace the two SPDT buttons, plus running some wires between the switches. I chose not to deal with this problem because it wasn't worth the effort, and I'm glad I didn't waste my time because the dash button is not missed at all! My adult son who also uses the boat really likes having the button on the shifter.I'm thinking of doing this same thing but keeping the dash button as well. I think it would be feasible to simply add the new switch to the current button.
This is cool. Can it be used similar to cruise control. When I try to lock in a comfortable cruising speed, I'm usually right where I want to be holding the throttle, but when I let go it drops enough that I have to hit the cruise assist multiple times. So, if you're holding the throttle where you want it and bump the cruise assist, will it hold the RPM even if the throttle drops slightly after letting go?
This worked ok for you with both engines? I did it but only get no wake mode control to the port engine. I had to split the wires off the up-down switch to connect to all 6 factory wires. I wonder if this is the problem.I never follow up on this and I should have. I used these instructions and moved my "no wake mode" switch to the up/down buttons on the left throttle of my 2013 212x. No trouble at all. Great mod too.
Thanks! My stock switch has two 12v source wires and two up (port/strbd) and two down (port/strbd) for a total of six. I’ve split the 3 out of the new toggle to make sixIt works for both engines for me, no problem. I'll have to check the wiring to be sure, but if I remember correctly, there was an "up" wire on the back of the original switch for both engines, a "down" wire, and then 2 +12v wires. Should have 3 wires from your new switch, all "ups" together, all "downs" together, and all "+12v" together. I could be off here so please verify. I'll try to do that myself. Also, if I remember correctly, the top posts on the back of the original switch are actually "down", which is opposite what you would think. I had to check with a voltmeter to be sure.
Ok so I jiggled some wires on the stock wiring harness for the no wake/cruise and works perfectly. Very scientific and technical, but it worked... thanks for the help!It works for both engines for me, no problem. I'll have to check the wiring to be sure, but if I remember correctly, there was an "up" wire on the back of the original switch for both engines, a "down" wire, and then 2 +12v wires. Should have 3 wires from your new switch, all "ups" together, all "downs" together, and all "+12v" together. I could be off here so please verify. I'll try to do that myself. Also, if I remember correctly, the top posts on the back of the original switch are actually "down", which is opposite what you would think. I had to check with a voltmeter to be sure.