VONCE
Jet Boat Addict
- Messages
- 229
- Reaction score
- 103
- Points
- 102
- Location
- Dayton, OH
- Boat Make
- Yamaha
- Year
- 2006
- Boat Model
- AR
- Boat Length
- 21
I’m not sure which trailers this process and these parts apply to. My boat is a 2006 Yamaha AR210. I believe my trailer is the standard painted MFI trailer with surge brakes. This is by no means an official, 100% proven publication. But it all worked great for me! I’ll try to answer any questions, but you’re on your own determining compatibility for your application – I can’t be held responsible for any incorrect part numbers, issues, damage, injury, etc. you may encounter. If you decide to use this as a guide, I hope it saves you lots of time and money!
I recently replaced my trailer brakes and wheel bearings. It wasn’t too hateful of a job. I broke the brake line going into the rubber hose near the axle, so I replaced all of the brake lines as well. The hardest part was fishing the new steel line through the trailer frame. Most of the fittings on the old brake system are standard 3/16” inverted flare line, 3/8-24 thread. After some research, I found you could supposedly use brake parts from a Kia Sephia as replacements. I tested this theory, and was happily surprised with the results! At first, I thought I’d only be able to rebuild my calipers with the Kia components, but the replacement calipers were (almost) a direct replacement! You have to ditch the Kia mounting bracket and use your original one, though. But the Kia caliper bolts right up to the original trailer mounting bracket. Just clean up the hardware on the old bracket (or, better yet, get new hardware), lube it up, and it’s good to go. I had a tough time fighting the spring clips that hold the pad into the piston, so after way too long of a struggle, I just took those clips off. They were held in by a rivet. Another thing that was different was how the brake lines connect to the calipers. The bleeders and the hose hookup threads aren’t an identical match. The original setup has the rubber hose going to the starboard side caliper, then attached to the caliper via a banjo bolt is a T adapter to accept the rubber hose and send the other brake line to the port side. Once again, all 3/8-24 inverted flare fittings. Well, you can’t utilize this setup with your new Kia calipers. The new caliper threads are different for the lines, so that banjo bolt isn’t going to work. What you need to do is use an adapter to adapt the standard 3/8-24 tubing nut to a M10-1.0 bubble flare – which is what the caliper accepts. Luckily Dorman makes a fancy adapter for this! You will no longer use the banjo bolt or the adapters that were attached via the banjo bolt. You also need to use the Tee at the end of rubber hose that leads to the axle. So, to summarize, the new setup is as follows: Rubber hose from the master cylinder (3/8-24 male threaded into the MC, 3/8-24 female thread at the other end of the hose). Into the female thread of the hose goes the steel brake line tubing nut. The steel line runs through the frame and comes out by the wheels – same spot as the original. The line gets threaded into the female end of the smaller rubber hose (I was able to re-use the old hose bracket welded to the inside of the frame, but I had to drill it out a little bigger to fit my new line). The other (male) end of the rubber hose gets threaded into a 3/16 Inverted Flare Tee fitting somewhere near the axle (don’t stretch the rubber hose too far). Thread some 3/16 brake lines into the Tee fitting and send one to each caliper. Now either use the adapter along with your standard 3/8-24 tubing nut, or if you are making your own lines, make a M10-1.0 bubble flare to thread into the caliper. Bleed the system and hopefully you get the same wonderful results I did!
As for the wheel bearings, I don’t really have any tips or tricks for those. The process was the same as any other trailer bearing I’ve ever replaced. A little Googling or YouTubing will get you fixed right up.
I listed the vehicle applications some of the parts use. This is helpful if you want to see pricing or brand options. Also easier when you go to the parts store asking for this stuff.
Front Brake hose (24 inch length, collapsible tongue)
Dorman part number H42184
Application: 68-73 Jeep J-2500
Rear Left or right; 126.0 Inch Wheelbase
Rear Brake hose (14 inch length, frame to axle)
Dorman part number H19015
Application: 67-69 Plymouth Fury Base Model
Rear Left or right; 14 In. Length
Caliper Line Adapter
Dorman part number 499-004.1
Brake Line Adapter-Bubble Flare-3/8-24 In. x 3/16 In. x M10-1.0
Tee fitting
Dorman part number 343521.1
Brake Line Tee-Inverted Flare- 3/16 In. x 3/16 In. x 3/16 In.
Brake Calipers and Brake Pads:
Application: 94-2000 Kia Sephia, front
Trailer Inner Wheel Bearings
National part number A13
Application: 75-96 Ford F150, front inner, RWD
Trailer Outer Wheel Bearings
National Part Number A4
Application: 1976-1987 Chevrolet Chevette, front inner
Trailer Wheel Grease Seal
National part number 470460
Application: 68-74 Toyota Corolla
Transmission front fluid pump seal (automatic, 2 speed)
Cotter Pins
1/8” diameter, 2 inch length
Brake Line
3/16” Many parts stores sell pre-made sections (make sure to get inverted flare, 3/8-24 thread fittings), or they sell it by the roll, but you need a tool to flare the ends.
I recently replaced my trailer brakes and wheel bearings. It wasn’t too hateful of a job. I broke the brake line going into the rubber hose near the axle, so I replaced all of the brake lines as well. The hardest part was fishing the new steel line through the trailer frame. Most of the fittings on the old brake system are standard 3/16” inverted flare line, 3/8-24 thread. After some research, I found you could supposedly use brake parts from a Kia Sephia as replacements. I tested this theory, and was happily surprised with the results! At first, I thought I’d only be able to rebuild my calipers with the Kia components, but the replacement calipers were (almost) a direct replacement! You have to ditch the Kia mounting bracket and use your original one, though. But the Kia caliper bolts right up to the original trailer mounting bracket. Just clean up the hardware on the old bracket (or, better yet, get new hardware), lube it up, and it’s good to go. I had a tough time fighting the spring clips that hold the pad into the piston, so after way too long of a struggle, I just took those clips off. They were held in by a rivet. Another thing that was different was how the brake lines connect to the calipers. The bleeders and the hose hookup threads aren’t an identical match. The original setup has the rubber hose going to the starboard side caliper, then attached to the caliper via a banjo bolt is a T adapter to accept the rubber hose and send the other brake line to the port side. Once again, all 3/8-24 inverted flare fittings. Well, you can’t utilize this setup with your new Kia calipers. The new caliper threads are different for the lines, so that banjo bolt isn’t going to work. What you need to do is use an adapter to adapt the standard 3/8-24 tubing nut to a M10-1.0 bubble flare – which is what the caliper accepts. Luckily Dorman makes a fancy adapter for this! You will no longer use the banjo bolt or the adapters that were attached via the banjo bolt. You also need to use the Tee at the end of rubber hose that leads to the axle. So, to summarize, the new setup is as follows: Rubber hose from the master cylinder (3/8-24 male threaded into the MC, 3/8-24 female thread at the other end of the hose). Into the female thread of the hose goes the steel brake line tubing nut. The steel line runs through the frame and comes out by the wheels – same spot as the original. The line gets threaded into the female end of the smaller rubber hose (I was able to re-use the old hose bracket welded to the inside of the frame, but I had to drill it out a little bigger to fit my new line). The other (male) end of the rubber hose gets threaded into a 3/16 Inverted Flare Tee fitting somewhere near the axle (don’t stretch the rubber hose too far). Thread some 3/16 brake lines into the Tee fitting and send one to each caliper. Now either use the adapter along with your standard 3/8-24 tubing nut, or if you are making your own lines, make a M10-1.0 bubble flare to thread into the caliper. Bleed the system and hopefully you get the same wonderful results I did!
As for the wheel bearings, I don’t really have any tips or tricks for those. The process was the same as any other trailer bearing I’ve ever replaced. A little Googling or YouTubing will get you fixed right up.
I listed the vehicle applications some of the parts use. This is helpful if you want to see pricing or brand options. Also easier when you go to the parts store asking for this stuff.
Front Brake hose (24 inch length, collapsible tongue)
Dorman part number H42184
Application: 68-73 Jeep J-2500
Rear Left or right; 126.0 Inch Wheelbase
Rear Brake hose (14 inch length, frame to axle)
Dorman part number H19015
Application: 67-69 Plymouth Fury Base Model
Rear Left or right; 14 In. Length
Caliper Line Adapter
Dorman part number 499-004.1
Brake Line Adapter-Bubble Flare-3/8-24 In. x 3/16 In. x M10-1.0
Tee fitting
Dorman part number 343521.1
Brake Line Tee-Inverted Flare- 3/16 In. x 3/16 In. x 3/16 In.
Brake Calipers and Brake Pads:
Application: 94-2000 Kia Sephia, front
Trailer Inner Wheel Bearings
National part number A13
Application: 75-96 Ford F150, front inner, RWD
Trailer Outer Wheel Bearings
National Part Number A4
Application: 1976-1987 Chevrolet Chevette, front inner
Trailer Wheel Grease Seal
National part number 470460
Application: 68-74 Toyota Corolla
Transmission front fluid pump seal (automatic, 2 speed)
Cotter Pins
1/8” diameter, 2 inch length
Brake Line
3/16” Many parts stores sell pre-made sections (make sure to get inverted flare, 3/8-24 thread fittings), or they sell it by the roll, but you need a tool to flare the ends.
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