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Trailer wheel is hot

Volffas

Jetboaters Admiral
Messages
1,289
Reaction score
1,238
Points
292
Location
Alexandria, KY
Boat Make
Yamaha
Year
2007
Boat Model
AR
Boat Length
23
I just brought the boat out of storage back to my house. It is apprx. 15 mile trip. I stopped at walgreens to pick up a prescription and had to wait 20 minutes or so (the doctor hadn't called in the prescription) then I drove the remaining 5 miles to my house.

I always check the wheels after any trip, 3 of the 4 were perfectly fine, but the rear wheel on the passenger side was so hot I could have cooked an egg on it. 15 minutes later it is still hot to touch. The bearing is greased (see attached picture). So my guess is that the break is hanging up??? Has anyone ever had this issue? Any suggestions where to start looking?

Thanks!20150514_114055.jpg

hot wheel.jpg
 
I have had brakes hang up and the wheel hub will get extremely hot, that is what I would check first.

Typically I have had to take the brake assembly apart and clean it to get it to free up. Once I was able to tap it with a hammer, lube up the slide areas with wd-40, and slide the pads off the rotor.
 
Easiest way to tell is to drive your rear wheel up onto a block or ramp to get the front wheel off the ground and spin it by hand. Listen for the brakes rubbing or feel it getting caught up.
 
Easiest way to tell is to drive your rear wheel up onto a block or ramp to get the front wheel off the ground and spin it by hand. Listen for the brakes rubbing or feel it getting caught up.

That sounds like a plan. I just bought this last year. It will be a good test.

Thanks!
 
That's perfect!

This didn't work as well as I had hoped. I thought both wheels were supposed to come off the ground? The rear wheel is still firmly on the ground. I'm glad I am finding this out now instead of during a roadside emergency.



trailer aid fail.jpg
 
put a something under the yellow ramp to give you a couple more inches

edit -- I see the front of trailer is on the right of pic now.
 
@Boat Crazy got me in the habit of shooting each hub with an IR gun every time I stop. I found a hung up brake that way one time. I disassembled the caliper and lubed everything up, good to go now. I think I actually need to do my other side now.
 
Im having a similar issue with my Tow Rig, I rebuilt the brakes before winter and replaced the calipers, the replacements had steel pistons rather than the phenolic ones it came with, I thought no problem, steel is better than plastic... I was wrong. I am now waiting on a new replacement set of calipers with the phenolic pistons to rebuild the front brakes again. It got so hot water was sizzling off the wheel near the valve stem... Something I am not too happy about.
 
Just jack up the axle of the offending wheel and try to turn it. I already know the answer to this, you wint be able to. The caliper piston is compressed against the disc like you suspect. I had this happen twice at different times to each wheel. Once before a big trip with no time to get a new caliper. Cleaning and trying to repair it was worthless in my situation. The piston was dragging in the bore. I could have honed the bore, but it was more the piston than bore. After you pull the caliper out of the way, compress the piston back with a large c-clamp. The next application will cause it to stick again, at least in my situation. So I disabled the brakes and replaced the caliper when it came in. Have someone meter the brakes slowly and release them as you turn the wheel by hand. If it doesn't release completely, that caliper is shot. Go to UFP website and download the DB-35 manual. Also call and get their brake bleeding procedure faxed to you. I have those but not at home to send you. Hope this helps.
 
I tried with a small piece of 2 x 4 that I had handy and still nothing.

Then got a decent sized 2 x 4 on top of a 1 x 8 and that did the trick. I guess I will need to add those 2 items to my list of things to take on a trip. Thankfully this wasn't on the side of a highway.

As @txav8r suggested, it is almost impossible to turn. I'm no mechanic, I guess I will have to find a trailer shop nearby. Hopefully they can work on it with the boat on.

Thanks for all of the advice everyone!

didn't work.jpg

that worked.jpg
 
May also want to check your rotor to see if it is warped. After long trips to your destination of body of water without letting your hubs cool down prior to entering water can cause this. Not saying you are guilty but a reminder to all to allow time for hubs to cool before entering water. Hot or real warm hubs will actually draw in water.
 
So I disabled the brakes and replaced the caliper when it came in.

Is there an easy way to disable the brakes to get me to a shop?
 
@Volffas Good thing you found that out now on the Trailer Aid. I have a board in the car with me for just such a thing. I found that depending on the grade of the ground I am on, it will impact it in exactly what you are seeing...
 
A few years ago, I didn't notice that I had pinched my hydraulic line when folding the trailer tongue back in place after picking up from storage. Drove a few miles home and grease was boiling out of the hub. After a lot of cussing, I noticed what I had done. Folded the tongue and fished the line in while re-closing. Re-greased the bearings and haven't had a problem since.
 
The "D" ring clip

But that probably won't release the caliper will it? I think I asked the wrong question. I need to figure out how to release the caliper. The good news is that my mechanic is less than 2 miles from me, I have a call in to him to see if this is something he can do. He owns his own boat, so I'm hoping he can do it. I guess dragging it a mile shouldn't damage it too much more than it already is.
 
But that probably won't release the caliper will it? I think I asked the wrong question. I need to figure out how to release the caliper. The good news is that my mechanic is less than 2 miles from me, I have a call in to him to see if this is something he can do. He owns his own boat, so I'm hoping he can do it. I guess dragging it a mile shouldn't damage it too much more than it already is.


For 2 miles I would take the wheel off and go slow if you were concerned about it, other wise you aren't going to do anything that you haven't done already.
 
For two miles I would take the caliper off, strap it to something that moves up and down with the suspension and put a piece of wood about the same thickness as a rotor in it.
 
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