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voltage loss

5 years is about the upper limit to be expected from batteries. on a boat, batteries in less than top notch condition could leave you stranded. first thing i would do is buy new ones.

I agree this may be a relatively cheap fix to try out. When I had the electrical issue I got less than an hour before it dropped a brand new batt to alarm levels. I've had a 6yr old Car batt check good at the Batt shop (crank power) but would drain if I played the radio or left the lights on just a few mins w/o the engine running. New Batt, no prob since. From what I see on here seems like people who use their boats change their Batts at least every 2-3yrs.
 
(I changed mine after 6 years (maybe it was 7?), just in case--originals were still going strong)
 
Just attended the dealer. showed him pics and he termined that I do not have deep cycle batteries and that it is an absolute must. therefore I will change them. bought the boat 1 month ago from so.eo e that was clueless. cheers and I appreciate all the help
Deep cycle are not a must unless you use the house battery with an amp. Totally stock system would probably be fine with just a pair of start batteries as there would be very little drain. However, if they're 5-6 years old and were not maintained properly with a smart battery charger that will keep them topped up, then they're probably toast which is causing the fast drop in voltage. If you want to save a few bucks, you can get a start for starting the engines, and a deep cycle for the house. Make sure they're both of the same chemistry like lead-acid, AGM, etc. so the boat's charging system will keep them at proper voltages and charge levels.
 
Dry batteries also don't hold much charge...
 
Check that the solar panels are operating and don’t have a blown fuse . Pull the plug on the port side that is near the Bimini pivot point check for voltage at both ends one side will give you a reading from the solar panels about 14 -19 volts depending on sunlight hitting them . The other side will show the battery voltage 12.4 to 12.7 depending on state of charge . If you have no reading on the battery side your fuse is most likely blown . If the batteries are removed for winter storage it’s easy to accidentally have wires hit each other and blow the fuse.
 
Both my batteries are deep cycle, there is no need for a start battery IMO, we aren't starting V8s. My sound system is over 1600 watts and I've never drained a battery.
 
Thanks. But I have a start battery and a house battery. Both batteries have to be on in order for the radio to play. I though I could shut off the start battery. Apparently not. I also have the solar panels. I figured it would compensate. Apparently not.

I'm following too.... I just bought a 2016 242 Limited S. But I have to have both batteries on to maintain stereo. I too thought you could float and leave house on and start off. But it turned stereo off. I tried to reverse it and same thing, shuts stereo off.

That being said, I didn't really have a problem floating a few hours with tunes, then starting.

Also, is this correct to keep things from shutting down?

I idle into spot
Cut one engine off, then turn that key halfway back on.
Then cut the other engine.

That keeps stereo and Connext from shutting off and having to restart.
Is that correct.?
 
Hello, I have a yamaha 242 e-series 2016. when i am on the water I experience voltage loss when a I play the radio. Then the alarm goes off once it reaches 10.8v. I start the motors up and immediately both batteries display 13.2 v. How should I set up the batteries when on water. Thanks
@Cs2930 .....late to the discussion. A lot of great answers from members (as usual). IMO your batteries are getting a bit old. As well how they are being charged is a huge determinant. Are they being charged properly while underway. Are they being charged properly if at your slip or at home? If you are looking at new batteries consider AGM TPPL as these charge 300 - 400% faster, and are far more robust in every way.
 
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