Wake Surfing Ballast - Water in Bilge?

[JasonSchoenrock]

Now that I have my ballast set up dialed in, I've noticed that when I have the boat listing (on either side), the bilge pumps a significant amount of water out every 5 minutes or so. This happens whether the boat is running or not. It does not happen when the boat is not filled with ballast. Is there something near the top under the swim platform that would need to be sealed? Any ideas? If that bilge pump stopped working, I'd be in trouble...

 

[Mainah]

Now that I have my ballast set up dialed in, I've noticed that when I have the boat listing (on either side), the bilge pumps a significant amount of water out every 5 minutes or so. This happens whether the boat is running or not. It does not happen when the boat is not filled with ballast. Is there something near the top under the swim platform that would need to be sealed? Any ideas? If that bilge pump stopped working, I'd be in trouble...

More than likely the rub rail leaking. Radio remote, stern cleats, table mount are also good things to check. I added a one way check valve to the the clean out drain outlet and found that most of the sealant on all of the through hull stuff was done poorly. I also recommend installing a second dedicated float switch bilge.

 

[JasonSchoenrock]

More than likely the rub rail leaking. Radio remote, stern cleats, table mount are also good things to check. I added a one way check valve to the the clean out drain outlet and found that most of the sealant on all of the through hull stuff was done poorly. I also recommend installing a second dedicated float switch bilge.

Thanks! So.. I've looked on some other threads and this appears to be a widespread issue. Has anyone tried to do this seal themselves? Is it just as simple as backing the rub rail screws out, filling with 4200, then screwing back in? Or does it need to be completely removed?

 

[Mainah]

Thanks! So.. I've looked on some other threads and this appears to be a widespread issue. Has anyone tried to do this seal themselves? Is it just as simple as backing the rub rail screws out, filling with 4200, then screwing back in? Or does it need to be completely removed?

Removal is required along the stern and bit up eash side. This is where the hull comes together more than just the screw holes at play. One more thought... check the fittings on your ballast pumps and bags. Check the bags themselves for leaking too. When I put mine in I had to cut and round off some fasteners portruding into the bench storage areas.

 

[scokill]

It is not an issue. The rub rail is not designed to be under water. Just let the bilge pump it out. It’s common

 

[Scottie]

So I had this same issue last year. I chalked it up to the rub rail as mentioned and moved on. Over the winter, I added integrated ballast. We're sinking the boat lower than ever before, and the bilge is DRY. It was so noticeable that I checked the bilge pump to make sure it was working, since I wasn't seeing it run while surfing. While doing my ballast project, I checked my plastic scupper valve, which is just under the swim platform on the surf side. It wasn't leaking or broken that I could tell, but I replaced it anyway with a stainless one, just because. The only explanation is that my scupper, despite appearing ok, was leaking heavily when submerged. It may not be your issue, but it's an easy/cheap replacement, so I'd look into it.

 

[Arcadyus]

I have same issue and on my 195 and my rear seat carpet gets wet. From the factory it's not sealed behind the rub rail. My guess is the only sealed rub rails are the X series boats. The rear cleats also leak into the bilge. As long as your bilge is working it really should not be an issue. I've gotten use to it. If they don't want the rub rails under water why even put towers on their boats. Just another odd thing yamaha does. A few members on here advised me against sealing because of resale implications. And If your bilge ever fails you have your ballast pump as a backup.

 

[JasonSchoenrock]

Thanks for the replies!

 

[Livi0411]

First time today on lake w/ Custom Yamaha FatSac on swim platform (850lbs), Yamaha wake booster, and wife/3 little kids in the boat. The boat seemed to be working hard and with almost full power could NOT plane or go faster than 15mph. Not that I want to go faster when surfing — was curious given the load this seemed to have on the boat. Noticed a steam/smoke from back as well. 2018 AR240 w/ 50hrs. Thoughts?

 

[swatski]

Now that I have my ballast set up dialed in, I've noticed that when I have the boat listing (on either side), the bilge pumps a significant amount of water out every 5 minutes or so. This happens whether the boat is running or not. It does not happen when the boat is not filled with ballast. Is there something near the top under the swim platform that would need to be sealed? Any ideas? If that bilge pump stopped working, I'd be in trouble...

Yes, that's pretty much common - the leak is through the rub rail that gets under water when surfing (listed).
I wouldn;t worry about it too much, as long as your bilge pump is working, just test it before you go surfing.
Secondary bilge pump is always a good idea!
There are many ways to do it, here is one:

Here is a quick repost of my setup:

"I don't particularly care for the factory bilge pump set up. I don't really like leaving the boat with battery switches on, if it can be avoided.... So, in my boat I finally got a backup bilge pump installed - the way I like it - direct to the battery (fused).

I use the simplest of all pumps - an automatic with a float switch. Attwood or Rule, doesn't matter, they are all the same. They all get terrible reviews, but I think it is primarily due to installation and maintenance issues.
The Ultra (brand) switch is about the only thing that will not fail - and something I would get if I wet slipped.

Otherwise, they all can get stuck in either "off" or "on" position, but I believe those inexpensive float switch automatics are actuslly the most reliable, if frequently tested and kept reasonably clean. One of my past boats leaked heavily (before I rebuilt the transom) - I had a chance to test various setups over the few years I kept it, lol.

Basically - the cycling ones (like the OEM pump) sense a load, any load - so it could be debris that will keep those on and drain your battery pretty quickly leaving the boat unprotected. Same with the "actual liquid sensing" (conductance, optical or whatever) - those can be fooled/activated by dirt - and stay "on". What is even more worrisome, neither of those two types (or the newer ones that "sense" but then default to "cycling" if they think it is just dirt) will actually pump if gasoline or oil is present...
(I'm all for clean environment, but if my boat sinks....)

Here is my backup bilge pump setup (inside the stern):

The pump's base is screwed and 5200-ed to one of the support beams (for the ride plate underneath the hull) at the bottom of the bilge. This backup pump operates completely independently of the factory bilge pump and is the only device in my boat that is live when all battery switches are "OFF". I have it wired directly to the house battery with a 16awg wire (using ground-black, and automatic - brown, with the brown/white - manual sealed off) running in a loom (top in the picture) - going into the engine compartment inside another large loom, along steering cables. The hot wire is fused within few inches of the positive terminal with a 5A fuse. The drain hose (bottom) is a standard 5ft 3/4" with a dedicated thru-hull outlet fitting installed above/forward off of the strbd rear cleat (don't have a picture).

Oh, I forgot to add - the pump is accessible through the cleanout tray hatch/opening - I can reach it to test the pump with the little dial knob. "

EDIT: Here is a picture of the outlet - the pump ejects a 5ft long stream. When putting this kind of back up together - I think it is very important to have an independent hose line/outlet, a well designed system with a short, clear path is more important than the nominal "GPH" rating of a pump, which is often based on unrealistic circumstances.

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