Wanting to add a cleat(s) to stern area of 212X. Need advice!

[topherbd16]

Attached are 5 places/areas I'm looking to add a pop up cleat (or two if I add them in symmetry). Reason being is I carry stuff on that upper transom deck and don't want it falling off. Main reason is I have a 1000lb. Straight Line Sumo ballast bag and don't like tying it to the wake tower or running ropes up to the middle cleats on the sides of the boat (this gets in the way of climbing on and off the boat to swim, etc. Would like a pop cleat that is right there in one of these locations. However, access to these seem rather challenging. 1~3 have a double wall with hollow space. Will have to drill large holes for the nuts and tools to tighten from the back side then smaller holes to install the cleats from the outside. 4 and 5 seem very challenging.
A lot of Yamahas have cleats or ski rope attaments points at spot 1. Mine is on the lower swim deck.

Is this a terrible idea for it to hold a 1000 lb. bag from falling backwards (maybe 200 pound aft loading from angle of boat since most of it is supported on the deck)? We'll also use the cleats to tie up the roll up mats, tubes, coolers (and maybe anyone that doesn't obey the clean barefoot rule).

I'm not worried about doing the work myself, just more concerned about having a cleat pull out/crack the fiberglass after the fact due to using an area not designed for these loads.

Your thoughts, opinions and advice are appreciated!!!!

 

[anmut]

I would think #5 would offer the most usable area and strength, but i'm not an engineer either.

 

[tdonoughue]

Not an engineer, but I play one on TV.

I would go for 5 as well. Spot 4 is second place.

Not sure how the engine access is on your boat, but it appears all of the others are actually on the engine hatch? That means any of those will be putting stress on your hinges and latches--not a good thing.

A large back plate would be in order in any of 4 or 5, though. That would help with any pull-through or cracking concerns.

 

[topherbd16]

I would think #5 would offer the most usable area and strength, but i'm not an engineer either.

Yes, 5 ‘feels’ solid, but not sure how to access it.....hmmmm

 

[topherbd16]

Not an engineer, but I play one on TV.

I would go for 5 as well. Spot 4 is second place.

Not sure how the engine access is on your boat, but it appears all of the others are actually on the engine hatch? That means any of those will be putting stress on your hinges and latches--not a good thing.

A large back plate would be in order in any of 4 or 5, though. That would help with any pull-through or cracking concerns.

Agree 4 and 5 will be more solid. 1-3 are all the engine bay hatch so you are right about the loads on hinges and latch. Now how to access 4???

 

[tdonoughue]

Through the side of the engine bay? Or from under the rear seat...?

 

[Inthrustwetrust]

Agree 4 and 5 will be more solid. 1-3 are all the engine bay hatch so you are right about the loads on hinges and latch. Now how to access 4???

4 or 5. I have a 240 so I don’t know exactly what everything looks like on your boat, but if you pop open the rear starboard cockpit seat for the storage area (if you have that?) you can access up there. That being said, you have to crawl in the storage seat upside down, and it’s tight, I ran RCA cables from my stern head unit to amp through that area. Very uncomfortable, but if you drill from the top you can probably spend 5 minutes in there to get a backing plate and hardware attached. Highly recommend someone really small or someone with long arms to be able to get up there.

 

[topherbd16]

4 or 5. I have a 240 so I don’t know exactly what everything looks like on your boat, but if you pop open the rear starboard cockpit seat for the storage area (if you have that?) you can access up there. That being said, you have to crawl in the storage seat upside down, and it’s tight, I ran RCA cables from my stern head unit to amp through that area. Very uncomfortable, but if you drill from the top you can probably spend 5 minutes in there to get a backing plate and hardware attached. Highly recommend someone really small or someone with long arms to be able to get up there.

Yes, when I open that storage seat and work backwards I hit the stock hard ballast tank. There may be room, but I’m going to have to do some more thinking on how to do this w/o screwing it up. I may need to remove the hard tanks to get it done too. I have long arms but I’m not small. My body will not fit in there. One arm and head is about all. This will be an interesting challenge to plan.

 

[Inthrustwetrust]

Yes, when I open that storage seat and work backwards I hit the stock hard ballast tank. There may be room, but I’m going to have to do some more thinking on how to do this w/o screwing it up. I may need to remove the hard tanks to get it done too. I have long arms but I’m not small. My body will not fit in there. One arm and head is about all. This will be an interesting challenge to plan.

Ahh ya I don’t have the ballast tanks so it’s not as hard to get to. How hard are the tanks to remove? Assuming the bigger issue removing them is the associated plumbing. Once that is out I don’t think it would be to difficult with a small and or lanky helper.