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Wet Sounds Rev 8 Upgrade Project

JDRacing

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So, I have posted several threads here about the debacle that was my Yamaha 2018 212X factory audio system wiring. Love the boat. Love the Wet Sounds audio hardware. But Yamaha's attempt at connecting it all together was nothing short of a travesty. After dozens of hours of rewiring, adding a second HTX-6 amp, changing the cockpit and bow speakers to Revo 6's, and adding some mid-cabin speakers, I ended up with the following (all Wet Sounds):

6 Revo 6's (aft cabin, mid cabin and bow)
2 (stock) Recon 5's (swim deck)
Stealth 10 Core Sound Bar (stock) on the tower
10" IB sub (stock)
2X HTX-6 amps, with each channel powering its own speaker (no series or parallel connections, sub bridged over two channels)
14 gauge marine (tinned copper) speaker wiring, except for sub, which is 12 gauge
4 gauge power to each amp.

Sounded pretty good. It was a huge upgrade from what was delivered, for under $2000.

But then we were on Tahoe over the 4th of July, and had some friends on the boat with the music cranked pretty good. When we pulled in for lunch, my wife commented that we could use some more sound for those sitting at the rear of the boat (and on the water too). She told me (didn't ask, mind you) that we needed more tower speakers. I vehemently disagreed (for about 1.5 seconds), but not wanting to disappoint the poor thing, I ultimately relented. I've was always believed in the virtues of sacrifice. So I bit the bullet and began the extremely distasteful, repugnant task of spec'ing out some tower speakers and an amplifier to add to the boat's audio system. I had kind of already been thinking about this (in the back of my mind without tipping my hand, of course) just in case the need to discuss it ever somehow presented itself. And shockingly, that moment had arrived.

We knew anything we added was going to be Wet Sounds--their customer service is at a level that I've not seen in this or other industries, and their products seem to be top quality. We looked at the Icon 8's and the Rev 8's and 10's, and noting the dimensions, we tried to get a sense of what each would look like on the tower on either side of the sound bar. We were particularly focused on whether they'd be in the way, causing folks to hit their heads, etc. We ultimately decided that the Rev 8's seemed to be the right size and provide the right specifications for the application, and settled on a pair of those, with the TC3 swivel clamps to mount them. And of course the Wet Sounds Suitz speaker covers. She really liked those.

Next came the spec for the amp to drive them. I had my two HTX-6's mounted in the port and starboard aft storage compartments (port one is stock location),
looking like this:

IMG_20190719_152016.jpg

I wanted to put any new amplifier we'd get to power the Rev 8's in one of those two compartments, preferably the port one nearer to the batteries and where the speaker wires would be coming out of the tower base, through the gunwale, and into the compartment. Figured I'd mount up some seaboard somewhere and figure that out after I chose the amp.

I e-mailed Wet Sounds customer service to get some input on amp recommendations. One of the possibilities was to double up some of my existing speakers in parallel, freeing up a couple of single channels for the two Rev 8's. That would give me 100W's RMS for each one--but they're rated at 200W continuous, 400W peak. So that seemed a bit anemic and probably taxing the HTX-6 a bit much to ask it to drive parallel Revos and a pair of Rev 8's. I also looked at the Syn DX-2, which is 200 watts per channel, and asked about the HTX-4 bridged for 300W/channel (and thought about Syn DX-4 bridged at 400W/channel). After some back and forth with Wet Sounds, they thought the HTX-4 bridged would be a good fit, and I liked that choice in particular, because of its somewhat smaller size and the location idea I was considering. Had we gone with the Rev 10's, we might have gone with the Syn DX-4 bridged and scrapped my location idea.

But with Wet Sounds' input that the HTX-4 bridged to 300W seemed like a good match for the Rev 8's, it gave me the opportunity to place the amp on the existing sea board which goes just in front of the port ballast tank. I tried to place the amp just to the outside of the slot cut for viewing the level of the tank. I pulled that board off, and tried fitting up the newly-received HTX-4 (bought everything from Creative Audio, by the way--good prices and free shipping--they will work with you on package deals if you're buying several larger-scale components). Had to place it so I could get to the screws securing the sea board to the ballast tank above and around the amp.

IMG_20190713_094803.jpg

It tucked back into the corner of that compartment pretty neatly (had to move the fire extinguisher).

IMG_20190713_105910.jpg

Mounting up the Rev 8's is not difficult, but it is time-consuming to do it cleanly and properly. We used a Unibit to get the hole the exact size I wanted (I used 7/16", which was just large enough to get the swivel clamp's sheathed wiring harness through).

IMG_20190714_105711.jpg

The TC3 swivel clamp is a very cool piece of engineering which conceals the wires into the into the tower tube, clamps tightly to it, and has a one-screw mechanism for removing the speakers (the covers double as a carrying case) for storage and swivel. I used 3 foot zip ties (available at the hardware store), taped together to form 9-12 foot fishes to get the wires through the tower. Came out the hole for the rear tower tube. IMG_20190714_112731.jpg


We used 12 gauge marine (copper/tinned) speaker wire for the runs through the tower and into the port storage compartment, along with a long segment of heat shrink tube to protect it up into the tower. Then split loom where it came into the compartment.

IMG_20190714_145637.jpg

Wired everything up, and fired up the amps. Here's the port compartment with the new HTX-4 and then a shot of both the HTX-4 and HTX-6 in that compartment. IMG_20190719_151913 (1).jpgIMG_20190719_151859.jpg

The relocated fire extinguish ended up attached to the top of the battery box cover in that last picture.

We're very pleased with the results. As others have noted, if you're looking for booming bass in tower speakers, these probably aren't your first choice. However, for clarity, projection and musicality, the Revs are absolutely amazing. We were able to point the sound bar down a bit (not much, actually), but those in the back of the cabin and those in the water get a whole lot more sound. A LOT more sound. Still running the stock battery setup--a deep cycle marine battery for the auxiliary/audio system, and a marine max CCA battery for the engines. Going to be keeping an eye on it to make sure we're carrying enough battery for three amps, but we don't tend to run at super high volumes for hours on end with the engines off. The speakers sit right over the backs of the helm and passenger seats, and it seems like it would be pretty difficult to bang into them.

IMG_20190719_152143.jpgMVIMG_20190730_193720.jpgIMG_20190730_194053.jpg

Jeff
 
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Recoveringfiberglassaddic

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Wow! Love the write up and the work. Super clean factory looking install. I see you shopped Syn series. Curious if you looked at the Sinister. I tend to like that amount as a WS dealer mostly for power dual REV10s but curious if you shopped it for an pair of 8s??

Happy boating!!
 

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Thank you for the kind comments.

No, I really didn't look closely at the Sinister series. Was focused mostly on either the bridged HTX-4 or the SYN-DX2, once it became clear that the existing HTX-6 amplifiers weren't going to be right for the added Rev 8's, no matter how I configured them.

In hindsight, I might have pushed Wet Sounds Customer Service a bit on whether, for Rev 8's, it would have made a difference going to the bridged SYN-DX4, rather than the HTX-4. But my thinking was that the bridged HTX-4 at 300W RMS/channel (and the other published specs) should be sufficient for the Rev 8's rated for 200W RMS, and so far that's proved to be adequate. I almost certainly would have gone for the SYN-DX4 bridged if we had gone with Rev 10's, and likely would have been looking at the Sinister series as well.

Thank you again for the kind comments. Means a lot coming from a dealer.

Jeff
 

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Great setup. Thanks for this thread. We are waiting on delivery of our 195S, and wetsounds tower upgrades are first on the list.

Looking good
 

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Thank you @Hoyt. Some of the best advice I've gotten on this forum, and I've gotten a whole lot of great advice, was from @Julian when I first started upgrading my audio system last year. I only needed four additional channels at the time, but he suggested I get a six channel amp for future upgrades, such as mid cabin speakers. I took that advice and am really glad I did.

This is a long way of saying that if you're thinking about a 4 channel bridged amp for a pair of Rev 8's or Rev 10's, consider getting a six channel amp. You can always find a future use for the extra two channels.

Jeff
 
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Great install!

I have a new (to me) 2016 Limited S and am debating between the Rev 8s or 10s. One question about the swivel mounts. How hard is it to rotate the speakers? Say you are at a cove and wanted the speakers pointing forward, would it be easy to do? Does the angle of the Yamaha tower in that location prevent you from swiveling the Rev 8s?

Getting advice now on what to buy, but leaning towards Rev 10s bridged, one channel for Kicker 10" subs in parallel, and one channel remaining for a pair of the boat speakers. This would be powered by Syn-DX6.
 

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Great install!

I have a new (to me) 2016 Limited S and am debating between the Rev 8s or 10s. One question about the swivel mounts. How hard is it to rotate the speakers? Say you are at a cove and wanted the speakers pointing forward, would it be easy to do? Does the angle of the Yamaha tower in that location prevent you from swiveling the Rev 8s?

Getting advice now on what to buy, but leaning towards Rev 10s bridged, one channel for Kicker 10" subs in parallel, and one channel remaining for a pair of the boat speakers. This would be powered by Syn-DX6.
Super simple to rotate. The swivel mounts have a single hex head bolt that runs through the swivel. When removed you can remove the whole speaker from the mount for security storage. When fully tight the speaker is fixed. When the bolt is in, but not tight you have full range of swivel 359°. The tightness of the bolt determines the ease of swivel as well. So basically.... Super simple.

Lastly i vote rev10. I'm running 10s on my tower also powered by the syndx6. Channels 1&2 and 3&4 bridged to power them. Super loud. My theory.... I can always turn them down if it's too much, but never up if it's not enough 😊
 

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Getting advice now on what to buy, but leaning towards Rev 10s bridged, one channel for Kicker 10" subs in parallel, and one channel remaining for a pair of the boat speakers. This would be powered by Syn-DX6.
The syndx6 will power your Rev 10s beautifully. Channels 1&2 bridged to one 10, and channels 3&4 bridged to the other 10. Giving you 400 watts rms potential. Plenty. Still leaving you channels 5&6 open to bridge to a sub. I'd put your cabin speakers on a separate amp
 

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Thanks Hoyt. So you can loosen the bolt but don't have to worry about the speakers falling off? I guess I will have to see it in action.

Spoke to Odin at Earmark today. Super nice guy and he helped me understand how to set things up. He recommended a separate amp for the cabin speakers as well. I'm probably being greedy trying to do too much with the one amp, but I am going to try 5 and 6 in parallel to start. Went ahead and pulled the trigger on the Rev 10s and Dx6 today.
 

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Thanks Hoyt. So you can loosen the bolt but don't have to worry about the speakers falling off? I guess I will have to see it in action.

Spoke to Odin at Earmark today. Super nice guy and he helped me understand how to set things up. He recommended a separate amp for the cabin speakers as well. I'm probably being greedy trying to do too much with the one amp, but I am going to try 5 and 6 in parallel to start. Went ahead and pulled the trigger on the Rev 10s and Dx6 today.
Yep exactly that. Loosen the bolt to swivel, and the speaker will not fall off at all
 

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For those of you that have your amps near the batteries, how did you run your RCAs from the unit under the helm? Straight across under the floor? Trying to figure out how long I need to buy for a 2016 242 Limited.
 

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Thanks Hoyt. So you can loosen the bolt but don't have to worry about the speakers falling off? I guess I will have to see it in action
Here's some pics to help better understand.

This is Rev 10 not connected to tower. Here is the hex bolt and clamp connected. You just loosen that bolt until your desired tension to swivel. Tighten to lock down swivel location (not needed).
20200208_201443.jpg

Remove the bolt and clamp and the whole speaker will come off for safe storage.
20200208_201604.jpg

Here's the top view of quick connections on speaker end. Tower end has female end. Like I said... Super simple to swivel or remove
20200208_201639.jpg

It's technically the clamp that holds the connections together. The bolt just locks in place, or loosens clamp to allow swiveling
 

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Thanks, that helps. Where did you run your RCAs?
 

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On my old 2008 212X I ran the RCAs from the driver side dash, back through the engine bay, and forward to under the port seat (just in front of the port storage area). Used 25' cable and had a few feet to spare.
 

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On my old 2008 212X I ran the RCAs from the driver side dash, back through the engine bay, and forward to under the port seat (just in front of the port storage area). Used 25' cable and had a few feet to spare.
Did the same thing with 2018 212X. Got some decent marine preamp cables and ran it through split loom in the front of the engine bay. Works great and is a tidy looking installation. Remember to ground all amps and the pre-amp to the same location, preferably the negative terminal of the battery powering the audio system. I have virtually no ground loop hum anywhere in the system.

Jeff
 

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Do you have pics on how you have the amps connected? Also, do you wish you would’ve gone to the rev 10 for $200 more or do the rev 8 give enough sound off? How’s the head clearance?
 

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I don't have close ups of amp connections, but bear in mind I have the Polk PA4A head unit which has RCA outputs for the front and rear channels, and i just ran them straight to the amps' inputs. You likely have the Fusion head unit and will need to buy an adapter harness to get RCA outputs from your head unit. There are threads which provide the part number for that, although I can't access them right now.

And no, I don't regret the Rev 8's at all. With the soundbar on our boats, they put out a LOT of sound behind the the boat. Money wasn't the deciding factor. Mostly the decision was based on size and their ability to be out of the way of our heads. We haven't felt they've interfered with any cabin space.

Jeff
 
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So, I have posted several threads here about the debacle that was my Yamaha 2018 212X factory audio system wiring. Love the boat. Love the Wet Sounds audio hardware. But Yamaha's attempt at connecting it all together was nothing short of a travesty. After dozens of hours of rewiring, adding a second HTX-6 amp, changing the cockpit and bow speakers to Revo 6's, and adding some mid-cabin speakers, I ended up with the following (all Wet Sounds):

6 Revo 6's (aft cabin, mid cabin and bow)
2 (stock) Recon 5's (swim deck)
Stealth 10 Core Sound Bar (stock) on the tower
10" IB sub (stock)
2X HTX-6 amps, with each channel powering its own speaker (no series or parallel connections, sub bridged over two channels)
14 gauge marine (tinned copper) speaker wiring, except for sub, which is 12 gauge
4 gauge power to each amp.

Sounded pretty good. It was a huge upgrade from what was delivered, for under $2000.

But then we were on Tahoe over the 4th of July, and had some friends on the boat with the music cranked pretty good. When we pulled in for lunch, my wife commented that we could use some more sound for those sitting at the rear of the boat (and on the water too). She told me (didn't ask, mind you) that we needed more tower speakers. I vehemently disagreed (for about 1.5 seconds), but not wanting to disappoint the poor thing, I ultimately relented. I've was always believed in the virtues of sacrifice. So I bit the bullet and began the extremely distasteful, repugnant task of spec'ing out some tower speakers and an amplifier to add to the boat's audio system. I had kind of already been thinking about this (in the back of my mind without tipping my hand, of course) just in case the need to discuss it ever somehow presented itself. And shockingly, that moment had arrived.

We knew anything we added was going to be Wet Sounds--their customer service is at a level that I've not seen in this or other industries, and their products seem to be top quality. We looked at the Icon 8's and the Rev 8's and 10's, and noting the dimensions, we tried to get a sense of what each would look like on the tower on either side of the sound bar. We were particularly focused on whether they'd be in the way, causing folks to hit their heads, etc. We ultimately decided that the Rev 8's seemed to be the right size and provide the right specifications for the application, and settled on a pair of those, with the TC3 swivel clamps to mount them. And of course the Wet Sounds Suitz speaker covers. She really liked those.

Next came the spec for the amp to drive them. I had my two HTX-6's mounted in the port and starboard aft storage compartments (port one is stock location),
looking like this:

View attachment 101730

I wanted to put any new amplifier we'd get to power the Rev 8's in one of those two compartments, preferably the port one nearer to the batteries and where the speaker wires would be coming out of the tower base, through the gunwale, and into the compartment. Figured I'd mount up some seaboard somewhere and figure that out after I chose the amp.

I e-mailed Wet Sounds customer service to get some input on amp recommendations. One of the possibilities was to double up some of my existing speakers in parallel, freeing up a couple of single channels for the two Rev 8's. That would give me 100W's RMS for each one--but they're rated at 200W continuous, 400W peak. So that seemed a bit anemic and probably taxing the HTX-6 a bit much to ask it to drive parallel Revos and a pair of Rev 8's. I also looked at the Syn DX-2, which is 200 watts per channel, and asked about the HTX-4 bridged for 300W/channel (and thought about Syn DX-4 bridged at 400W/channel). After some back and forth with Wet Sounds, they thought the HTX-4 bridged would be a good fit, and I liked that choice in particular, because of its somewhat smaller size and the location idea I was considering. Had we gone with the Rev 10's, we might have gone with the Syn DX-4 bridged and scrapped my location idea.

But with Wet Sounds' input that the HTX-4 bridged to 300W seemed like a good match for the Rev 8's, it gave me the opportunity to place the amp on the existing sea board which goes just in front of the port ballast tank. I tried to place the amp just to the outside of the slot cut for viewing the level of the tank. I pulled that board off, and tried fitting up the newly-received HTX-4 (bought everything from Creative Audio, by the way--good prices and free shipping--they will work with you on package deals if you're buying several larger-scale components). Had to place it so I could get to the screws securing the sea board to the ballast tank above and around the amp.

View attachment 101732

It tucked back into the corner of that compartment pretty neatly (had to move the fire extinguisher).

View attachment 101733

Mounting up the Rev 8's is not difficult, but it is time-consuming to do it cleanly and properly. We used a Unibit to get the hole the exact size I wanted (I used 7/16", which was just large enough to get the swivel clamp's sheathed wiring harness through).

View attachment 101735

The TC3 swivel clamp is a very cool piece of engineering which conceals the wires into the into the tower tube, clamps tightly to it, and has a one-screw mechanism for removing the speakers (the covers double as a carrying case) for storage and swivel. I used 3 foot zip ties (available at the hardware store), taped together to form 9-12 foot fishes to get the wires through the tower. Came out the hole for the rear tower tube. View attachment 101736


We used 12 gauge marine (copper/tinned) speaker wire for the runs through the tower and into the port storage compartment, along with a long segment of heat shrink tube to protect it up into the tower. Then split loom where it came into the compartment.

View attachment 101737

Wired everything up, and fired up the amps. Here's the port compartment with the new HTX-4 and then a shot of both the HTX-4 and HTX-6 in that compartment. View attachment 101738View attachment 101739

The relocated fire extinguish ended up attached to the top of the battery box cover in that last picture.

We're very pleased with the results. As others have noted, if you're looking for booming bass in tower speakers, these probably aren't your first choice. However, for clarity, projection and musicality, the Revs are absolutely amazing. We were able to point the sound bar down a bit (not much, actually), but those in the back of the cabin and those in the water get a whole lot more sound. A LOT more sound. Still running the stock battery setup--a deep cycle marine battery for the auxiliary/audio system, and a marine max CCA battery for the engines. Going to be keeping an eye on it to make sure we're carrying enough battery for three amps, but we don't tend to run at super high volumes for hours on end with the engines off. The speakers sit right over the backs of the helm and passenger seats, and it seems like it would be pretty difficult to bang into them.

View attachment 101740View attachment 101741View attachment 101742

Jeff
Do you have a picture of where you mounted the mid cabin speakers? Do you recall how much speaker wire you used, without the towers?
 
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JDRacing

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I have another thread from probably 9 months earlier about mounting the mid cabin speakers. I will need to go back and find it. Traveling at the moment so it may take some time. I bought a 100ft roll of tinned copper 14 gauge. Don't remember how much I used for the mid cabins, as I basically rewired the whole boat.

Jeff
 
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