What do I need to complete my install plan?

[DJ Bellin]

I have a 2015 242 limited and just purchased 8 MX650’s, that will be run off of a JL 800/8 and two JL10IB5’s that will be run of of a JL 600/1.

I plan on re running all new speaker wire to the original factory speakers, cutting two additional holes for the two remaining 6.5 inch speakers at the captain and co-captain chairs. Finally I am going o add the two subs in the storage compartment behind the co captains chair.

Questions are as follows:
1. What gauge, what type and how much speaker wire will I need for the new speaker runs for the 6.5’s and subs?

2. What size/how long of power wire and ground wires will I need?

3. What size fuses will I need and should I add a distribution block.

4. What size RCAs and how many will I need for this setup?

5. What is a recommendation for an amp rack premade for the two amps. I plan on staging them under the dash of the connex in the storage area that gives access to the dash components.

6. Is a bass knob worth it? Never used one before but I didn’t have two subs and I have a couple kids that may not want to rock out like I do when I’m flying solo

I am currently overseas and my boat is in storage at the marina so I don’t have access to it. I am trying to order all the components so I have them ready when I return next month. I am still debating doing this myself or just having my boat shop do it before I get home.

I am probably looking at knuconceptz for all the remaining parts.

Shout out to Odin@earmark for hooking me up with all the speakers and amps thus far.

 

[Bluewater272]

1. I used 14ga speaker wire for my speakers. I don't have any subs in my boat, but if I did I'd run them a size or two larger.
2. Depends on the amps. 4ga at minimum, will be 20-25' depending on the route you take to the amp. Not that much more expensive now to run a larger main feed to the helm to support future expansion.
3. Depends on the amps. Tally up the amperage on all the items, then pick that size. For me I installed a circuit breaker so I can easily kill power to the entire helm supply, both when done boating and for ease of working up there.
4. 3' RCAs will be plenty.
5. Non-existent. You'll need to fab up your own amp rack, plenty of threads around here on how to do it. Starboard or a thick plastic cutting board are solid options.
6. Probably a good idea, and minimal hassle to install. If you want to get crazy you can look at something like the Wetsounds 420BT.



Just my $0.02, you'll get a variety of options.

 

[Mainah]

I have some wire info here including lengths of what I used. https://jetboaters.net/threads/detailed-2016-242-ls-1k-audio-upgrade.9400/

A lot has changed since the install in this link but it is all pretty much what you need if running over the fuel tank. If running around the engine compatment add on 5 feet. 800 watts + 600 watts / 12.3 volts * 1.10 jl class D efficiency factor = 125 amp max draw at 20 plus feet = 2 awg requirement. Just go 0 awg knuknoceptz flexs wire. Yes get a fused distribution block for the jl amps. Yes do a 150 amp breaker (the cheap ones suck so only go blue seas or busman) or in line fuse within a foot or so of the battery.

Those amps are very accurate on the voltage tuning. Get the f generator app for your phone. Turn up phone to 100 percent and the pa4a head unit to 90 percent (max pre clip on bt) then tune those amps as directed by the jl manual of course starting with the gains all the way down and the speaker wire disconnected. 100–120 hz low pass on the subs 75-80 hz high pass on the 6.5s.

I don’t know of any pre made amp boards. The one in the link is holding up very well with lots more stuff hanging off both sides now. Some folks go with 1/2 inch hdpe and it has worked for them. I still recommend 3/4 for rigidity and more fastener contact surface area. Especially when you have already dropped serious coin on those jl amps. I now recommend hinges on the amp board for easier access behind it.

Get home safe to enjoy your family and all that awesome audio gear.

 

[DJ Bellin]

Thanks for the replies... just what I was looking for. I haven’t been next to an internet connection the last few days but I have access to one now.

This is what I have compiled together, let me know if I am missing anything or need to change something out.

 

[Laconic]

You'll need 4ga for both the amps power and ground. I would go 1/0 as close to the amps as you can then have a fused distribution block with fuse to go from 1/0 to qty2-4gA

 

[ralphsmithiii]

I just completed a similar install not too long ago. Agree with everything posted thus far. I ended up running 2AWG using the same amps, however as Mainah mentioned if you can run 0AWG and never have to worry about running cables again. First time I ran my cables from the battery compartment through the engine bay along the starboard side using 4AWG for just a M800/8 and I believe I had 25ft of both power and ground and had a few feet left over. I did take the extra time to loom it all and zip tie it so it looked as factory as it could.

Second run I ran 2AWG for the M800/8 and M600/4 but I ran it straight across the gas tank and followed others suggestions (@swatski) and ran the cables through conduit across the tank then wrapped it in a pool noodle to keep it from banging around and such. I ordered 20ft of power and ground and had a couple of feet left over running it that way.

I also ran 14awg for most of my speakers and 12awg for the subs.

An additional thought is, if you think you're going to run some sort of accessories that tie into where you are mounting your amp board, then get a bigger distribution block the first time. Several of us (I added it on my 2nd round of upgrades) added a fuse panel behind the helm to run things like lights, chartplotter/gps, etc to it directly. It's super convenient to have it there since you have power and ground already running but only if you think you're going to terminate at that location.

I also just added a bass knob and I can say that I'm glad I did as there where a few songs that where bass heavy that I wish I could of dialed down a notch before so instead I would just turn down the volume then back up. I actually have two knobs, one for my towers and one for the subs.

Odin should also be able to hook you up with the right RCA's, probably JL which he sells a ton of. You really only need 1-3ft cables so err on the side of caution and get the ones he recommends (if you get them from him), if not, then JL makes a 3' rca designed for marine audio: XMD-WHTAIC2-3

Or, if you measure twice and cut one, you could get away with their 1.5ft cables for 1-2$ less (I just bought the longer cables which I did have to zip tie up to tuck away neatly.

Oh, and if you're going to be doing the install yourself, buy the appropriate tools (correct size to cut the holes for the 6'5's in the cabin and for the 10" subs. It'll make your life a whole lot better and there will be less swearing and mess at the end.

 

[Josserman]

I also ran the same knu koncepts 1/0 gauge, love that stuff, and so easy to snake, just terminating it can be a PIA!