YDS Overheat Warning and Pee Tube Issues

[BrandonC_OK]

I managed to get YDS up and running on my Win11 laptop and used the connect cable that came with the boat to download the data from the engines. As shared on another thread, I had to bump the engines over before YDS could connect and see diagnostic information from each engine.

Each engine is showing 21 hours! I guess when the previous owner replaced the ECM's, they reset to zero.

The only Diagnosis Record information of concern was an Overheat Warning 0.18 hours ago (about 10 minutes).

The last time on the water was at Grand Lake O the Cherokees in NE Oklahoma. We ran about 15 minutes from my cousins house to the boat ramp where we put in (6 miles by water, see map below). I would guess that 10 minutes before shutoff would be when we slowed for the no wake zone under the bridge. It was after dark and I don't remember seeing any flashing lights on the tach/speedometer so I was surprised to see this in the report.

I don't know what a "normal" amount of water out of the pee tubes should be but I don't get very much at all under idle. I hooked a water hose up to the engines (yes I followed protocol) and while running at idle attached to the hose, I had strong flow from the aft most pee tube and revving the engine would throw water out of the front pee tube (exhaust). I've removed all four pee tubes from the motor and blown them out with compressed air and running weedeater string through them. I even double checked by blowing air with my mouth and found no resistance. I've watched the YouTube video on how the cooling system works (great video BTW) and grabbed a screenshot showing the three areas near the jet nozzle where cooling water exits the boat and while hooked up to the hose running the engines I had lots of water coming out of all three areas with very strong flow out of the lower left hole.

I checked the intake screens inside the nozzle and they don't appear to be clogged.

What should I do next?

I was going to remove the housing for the intake screens to make sure there isn't anything in there. I believe it was in the video above where someone had plastic inside the Y fitting they had to remove to solve there problem. I guess I could start making my way through all the hoses on the cooling water system and make sure I'm getting flow through all of them?

One more thing - while running at night about half of my gages didn't have a backlight. Is there any way to address this without replacing the whole gage?

Thanks everyone.

 

[Scottintexas]

most don't get much water at idle even at the lake,

on the hose many don't get any water at all, if you don't clamp the cooling water hose aft of the Y fitting alot of your flush water goes out the inlet screen at the nozzle,

have you watched buckbuck's video ?

and here is a video I made of flush water lost if you don't use a clamp on the inlet line,

 

[Scottintexas]

I wouldn't worry about the overheat, the mR1 cools but under high loads than at idle, it could have been you had momentary cavitation that disrupted the cooling water the caused the engine to get hot for second and then it went away and that's why you never saw the light, or maybe you ran the engines when you took the boat out of the water or while loading on the trailer,

If the YDS says your good running on the hose I wouldn't worry about it,

 

[BrandonC_OK]

Thanks Scott.

Yes I've watched Buckbuck's video multiple times (that is the one I was referencing) and is what I based my strategy off of.

I didn't see any water flowing back out of the intake screen when I had the hose hooked up. I'll pay closer attention next time.

I didn't have YDS hooked up while running the engines. But I do plan to do that and see if there are any other issues that pop up. I suppose it would be helpful to see more data related to the overheating issue if it becomes a problem.

 

[Brad_Ct]

There are four screws that hold your gauge panel in place, take those out and pull the panel. On each gauge you should see a round black what looks like a plug, twist it counterclockwise and pull it out. The bulb will come out with it.

 

[BrandonC_OK]

Thanks @Brad_Ct - always nice to know how to fix something before you start taking it apart!

 

[BrandonC_OK]

Pee Tube Update - last Saturday we spent 8 hours on the lake mainly tubing, skiing and wakeboarding. While I was slalom skiing, I noticed that a pretty stead stream was coming out of both of the rear pee tube outlets and on occasion stream/spray would come out of the front two. I never saw any flashing lights on the tachometers but I haven't hooked up YDS to see if there were any codes.

The boat ran great all day. Skiing/wakeboarding/kneeboarding is fine as long as you are outside the wake but any time directly behind the boat is terribly rough. If you are big guy like me (6'3" - 220 lbs), it takes a bit for the boat to get up to speed and trying to get up in the rough jetwash is a pain.

For the tube (Super Mable 3 person) - we had the two piece rope with the ball in the middle. That didn't work well as the riders experience a lot of spray behind the boat. We removed the ball which makes the rope length about 55' and it was still less than ideal. I bought a replacement section the same length as those two giving me 75-80' and it was much better. Towing from the rear hook wasn't ideal as the rope was in the water and you couldn't sling the tube outside the wake very well. We tried the wakeboard tower and it worked fine. I'm aware that it isn't recommended but I wasn't worried about the kids. I put way more stress on the tower when I was skiing according to my brother driving the boat who asked me if he should be concerned about the noises when I was cutting and pulling the boat around

For wakeboarding - we found 55' of rope to be the best part of the wave. Despite being larger than me, my brother can completely clear the wake from one side to the other at 20 mph and do backflips. It is quite a site to see a former college football linebacker who is 6'3" - 245 lbs pull that off. He was impressed that the boat could immediately pop him out of the water and get up to speed very quickly compared to an I/O. We also taught his 13 year old and 8 year old how to wakeboard... fun times.

I haven't had time to track down the few remaining issues but I'm definitely enjoying the boat. Thanks again to all here who have provided input. The next time I'm passing through DFW I'll definitely buy @Scottintexas a cold beer.

 

[wajetter]

Overheat switch correctly shuts off the engine, but there is no beep or warning on dash. Those with 06 AR230HO (MR1 engines) is this normal? I was observing the pisser not having the steady stream all day on the lake, then toward evening, hit a patch of small wood pieces on the lake, cleaned and proceeded. Rode for 10 minutes after that, and the engine started to die suddenly. I would start it, it runs for 5 seconds, shuts off. Let it sit, runs for longer and then shuts off. No water out of pissers. So, an overheat. However, there are zero beeps or anything popping on the dash.

 

[Scottintexas]

Overheat switch correctly shuts off the engine, but there is no beep or warning on dash. Those with 06 AR230HO (MR1 engines) is this normal? I was observing the pisser not having the steady stream all day on the lake, then toward evening, hit a patch of small wood pieces on the lake, cleaned and proceeded. Rode for 10 minutes after that, and the engine started to die suddenly. I would start it, it runs for 5 seconds, shuts off. Let it sit, runs for longer and then shuts off. No water out of pissers. So, an overheat. However, there are zero beeps or anything popping on the dash.

if it were hot enough to shut the engine down it would certainly show on the dash and store a code on the computer,

You need a yds to look at the previous codes thrown and then watch the temps in real time and if really overheating is your bulb burnt out on the dash?, and figure out why you don't have water coming out the indicators,

 

[wajetter]

if it were hot enough to shut the engine down it would certainly show on the dash and store a code on the computer,

You need a yds to look at the previous codes thrown and then watch the temps in real time and if really overheating is your bulb burnt out on the dash?, and figure out why you don't have water coming out the indicators,

To clarify, there's no water out that particular pisser. The other good engine has the steady stream.
The bulb is definitely not burned out: all 3 bulb flash when in wake mode. I mean to say, flashed all day before this started.

Now that it is on the trailer, I am going to take out the jet pump and look closely.

Unfortunately, no access to YDS -I was never able to hook it up to my Win 11 in the first place. Bummer..

 

[wajetter]

did not find anything in the jet pump. The blades are in perfect condition (despite sucking in the wakeboard rope and handle) - so not a cavitation issue. I will need to take out the hoses and blow them through today.

 

[Scottintexas]

the hoses have no bearing on your engine overheating. you can clamp them off and you engine won't know the difference,

I'd start off by running the engine on the hose and see if it overheats and stalls,

I might clamp off you input line from the nozzle, run it on the flush hose and remove the indicator hose at the engine to see what it's producing,

you should also trace that hose from the hull exit back because we've heard of the factory hooking up the hull exit ports in reverse (don't see the front indicator and automatically assume it's the thermostat line as listed in buck's video)

I'd also pull the thermostat just to check the condition,

 

[Scottintexas]

since a YDS is out of the question,

you could get a infra red thermometer gun and run the good engine on the hose to get some base line readings, then run the problem engine and monitor those same spots for temp spikes,


.

 

[wajetter]

Turned out to be a a wire issue. I had the wire bundle lay on top of the drive shaft cover, but but the bundle got under somhow and was grabbed by the spinning shaft and a couple wires were stripped. They were making contact and killing the ignition. Could have been so much worse.
This explain the randomness of this.

 

[captainhook]

The two rear pee holes in mine flow consistently, even on the hose. The front two, however have never flowed nearly as much and basically zero perceptible flow at idle (on the hose or in the water). I’ve always chalked it up to a further distance required for the water to travel because once I give the engine some throttle it starts flowing visibly. It is noticeably less pressure than the rear though though, even at cruising speed. It has never overheated.

 

[BrandonC_OK]

To clarify, there's no water out that particular pisser. The other good engine has the steady stream.
The bulb is definitely not burned out: all 3 bulb flash when in wake mode. I mean to say, flashed all day before this started.

Now that it is on the trailer, I am going to take out the jet pump and look closely.

Unfortunately, no access to YDS -I was never able to hook it up to my Win 11 in the first place. Bummer..

I ran YDS on Win11. What is your issue?