Repower 2004 AR210 with MR-1 HO's

[84rzv500r]

Boat progress today:
Got most all of the coolant lines cut to fit and dressed out need to clamp up.... will get some more pics tomorrow it was just to damn cold and windy today
was having difficulty getting engine mounts where I wanted them... so I took some 14mm OD x 8mm ID nylon bushings to center the mounts in the engine flanges... Now I can bolt the engine mounts to the engine rails in the boat and still have adjustment if needed... the couplers are within spec and the mounts are where they need to be... that was my last inexplicable mental hurdle... should be all bolted in and plumbed for cooling and exhaust tomorrow... if I get time I'll dress out the electrical harnesses... I need to order some Deuch connectors to eliminate the security system and connectors to expose the tach signals and marry the original ignition harnesses to the MR-1 harnesses (thanks Robb235 for sorting most of that out)
Got the Neoprene Foam to finish building the new seat cushions

Todo list:
Install AR230 Throttle cables
Install AR230 HO Tachs
Install Autometer mechanical Oil Pressure gauges
install ski locker fuel cell, check valves, shut off valves, pre/post pump filters, pressure regulators, and walboro pumps
order & Install LiFePO4 batteries
replace port engine Steering cable
wire up new speakers and AMP, replace kicker grilles on the other speakers to match...
install new cockpit Lights
sew up new Bench seat, and backrest cushions
Sew up new engine compartment deck and hatch cushions
and 10 other things I'm forgetting



So this stuff is much firmer than the open cell stuff...and it dont absorb water... I'll have to triple it up on the engine bay deck to match the height for Blond Beach Barbie

You do know I make this up as I go along... LOL

 

[84rzv500r]

got the engines positioned exactly where they need to go... took longer than anticipated but I wanted to get the drive couplings a close as I could and center all the free play. Also got all the hoses cut and fit exhaust pissers, exhaust collector to through hull, and rather than splicing the engine pisser and thermostat lines I ordered new 8mm and 19mm black silicone hose... for the revised routing... also the coolant supply from the pump/flush fitting is 13mm x 13mm x 13mm and the MR-1 is is 15mm... using a 13mm x 15mm ball valve for a tow valve.... problem fixed... it was 56 here today... Cold!!!

 

[84rzv500r]

That's a big fuel tank! Would love some pictures as you have them of that setup.

UPS says belly bladder tank be here tomorrow

 

[84rzv500r]

cleaned up the casting sniglets on the cast aluminum 45's and hit them with a couple coats of zinc chromate to finish up the exhaust to the water box piping... included some other pics in post so you can see how I came up with the transitions and routing. I cut the 6b6 castings rotated 180 degrees and tig welded them back together... plastic and paint make it what it aint

 

[84rzv500r]

Fuel cell box is bigger than the boat... rough dims check out... that is just a scoche smaller than the size of the inside of a LST1200D ski locker

 

[84rzv500r]

Side track: I have 260 LBS of Lead acid batteries in my boat and they work fine. With weight penalty of the MR-1's over the 1200's, the 150 lbs more in fuel if I use it, and all this chat over LiFePO4 batteries (I have them in my Harley's and love them) I can drop 200 lbs and double my start and float capacity... they are pricey but not horrible... Looking at a Dakota DL+ 12v 60Ah Dual Purpose 1000CCA Starter Battery Plus Deep Cycle Performance for the start side and a pair of
these for the house side, Ampere Time LiFePO4 Deep Cycle Battery 12V 100Ah with Built-in BMS.

I can be less weight and 50 more HP in normal operations... or equal weight and 50HP more with full fuel (50% more than original)...

and tidy up the PO's wiring a bit...

 

[84rzv500r]

ok so this is working good.... located the starboard engine front mounts and layed out all the other holes... now to lift/block up the engine, pull the rails, drill the holes tap them, bolt and tig some 8mm x 1.25 stainless flange nuts to the bottom of the rails and bam...

Well I did the first one with the TIG and it wasn't cooperating on the stainless... it was OK but I got tired of fussing with and finished with the MIG...
i didn't change over to stainless wire for 12 spot welds... it will have to do... the threads are all the way through the 3/16 plate and the nuts... ran a tap through all the threads and its good... starboard engine is all bolted in... It got dark so I need to adjust and snug everything else up in the morning...

 

[84rzv500r]

Side track: I have 260 LBS of Lead acid batteries in my boat and they work fine. With weight penalty of the MR-1's over the 1200's, the 150 lbs more in fuel if I use it, and all this chat over LiFePO4 batteries (I have them in my Harley's and love them) I can drop 200 lbs and double my start and float capacity... they are pricey but not horrible... Looking at a Dakota DL+ 12v 60Ah Dual Purpose 1000CCA Starter Battery Plus Deep Cycle Performance for the start side and a pair of
these for the house side, Ampere Time LiFePO4 Deep Cycle Battery 12V 100Ah with Built-in BMS.

I can be less weight and 50 more HP in normal operations... or equal weight and 50HP more with full fuel (50% more than original)...

and tidy up the PO's wiring a bit...
View attachment 170613 View attachment 170614

I ordered the LiFePO4 batteries last night... house string to the port, start battery on the stbd side... the weight savings is to much to ignore...lighter and 50 more horsies

 

[84rzv500r]

STBD engine bolted down Port engine to go... this is the last structural fabrication step for the repower.. the rest of Fuel system plumbing and components be here this week... got a little sanding and prework to do in the ski locker and them I can install the fuel tank... cant have any sharp edges of fiberglass sniglets... needs a clean up after its all done...

 

[84rzv500r]

long day at work so not much boat time today... started sorting through the wiring... got the 5200 out and sealed up the new through hulls for the pissers... I think all the coolant plumbing parts are here... Pulled the port engine rails for the final machine work and welding... the lead acid batteries are gonna come out next this week when the LiFePO4's get here and rewire the hot side and the grounds with new cables and ends...

 

[84rzv500r]

Sneek peak at the ski locker fuel cell, use a 316L stainless beer barrel bung w/teflon seal to keep the installed height down... also see the anti slosh/anti-flash open call foam (takes up ~3% of the total volume...

 

[84rzv500r]

port engine mount rails all welded and ready to install...

 

[84rzv500r]

Milestone achieved... Port engine in and bolted down so now its just hooking things up

 

[84rzv500r]

hooking up coolant lines... I like the routing out of the way... cant wait to get my LiFePO4 batteries in and tidy up the electrical rats nest

 

[84rzv500r]

Weekend update... 100Ah LiFePO4 bats arrived Friday, Had to remove my ball towing valves cause no room in the line, all the coolant lines are done... tbar clamps for exhaust be here tomorrow... I'll button up the exhausts as soon as they get here... I pulled the 6 temp m8 x1.25 x35 engine mount bolts out as the OEM stainless ones be here tomorrow.

then its on to the electrical and fuel systems...

 

[84rzv500r]

So just in case your wondering why I routed the coolant hoses around the forward side of the engines it was really a few things.

• I wanted to keep the hoses away from servicing the mid Bearing housing
• I like the look its cleaner than the jetski routing...
• I am gonna watch the engine temp as feeding the cooling water through a 13mm hose rather than the 16mm hose on the MR-1 boats.. I confess I didn't do the math for the heat rejection of 117Kw (400K BTU/hr) vs 100Kw (341K BTU/hr) vs the volume of inlet water... If it rains a lot I'll do the math I have MR-1 pump housings 22mm shafts, 11/20 impellers and fittings to bump the flow to a full 16mm, it will take a bit of machining to plug off the internal coolant passage and install 16mm thru hulls for the transom plates but all easily doable, and ill be able to run screens. I have 12/18 Solas impellers now... on 20mm shafts
• With the hose routing I have I can splice in inline mechanical temp gauges in the thermostat outlet hose and see what the temp is by mounting them right next to my volt meter in the hollow lumbar section of the seat...
• downside to the routing a 90 degree elbow adds the same flow restriction of approximately 20' of straight pipe give or take and im calling it not a significant factor...

 

[Beachbummer]

I have been monitoring Oil and Water Temp as well as exhaust temp for some time on my MR-1. The biggest cooling requirement is on Heat Soak. a little throttle bump to 3000 instead of 1500 RPM after slowing down from a high RPM run does wonders.

The oil temperature does take 30+ minutes to reach into the 190s if it ever gets that high. Rarely, and only when the seawater is hot and I'm running at very high RPMs for a long time do I see oil reach near or at the 210s, but once you get there, there is a little heat soak for a minute or three as you slow down, that makes the water temp go above 145. normally it stays below 140, and mostly below 135.

So, the likely time for overheat if marginal is when slowing down after a high speed run. The OEM pump in the SX230 supplies PLENTY of water at anything above idle, and enough to cool the engine at idle, but a bump to higher RPM after a long run does help greatly to keep the water temp below 140. I suspect yours will be quite similar.

 

[84rzv500r]

I have been monitoring Oil and Water Temp as well as exhaust temp for some time on my MR-1. The biggest cooling requirement is on Heat Soak. a little throttle bump to 3000 instead of 1500 RPM after slowing down from a high RPM run does wonders.

The oil temperature does take 30+ minutes to reach into the 190s if it ever gets that high. Rarely, and only when the seawater is hot and I'm running at very high RPMs for a long time do I see oil reach near or at the 210s, but once you get there, there is a little heat soak for a minute or three as you slow down, that makes the water temp go above 145. normally it stays below 140, and mostly below 135.

So, the likely time for overheat if marginal is when slowing down after a high speed run. The OEM pump in the SX230 supplies PLENTY of water at anything above idle, and enough to cool the engine at idle, but a bump to higher RPM after a long run does help greatly to keep the water temp below 140. I suspect yours will be quite similar.

Makes sense, based on your data im not gonna worry about it. Flew airplanes and raced motorcycles for many years and the key was being thermally kind to your engines... Temps in the green for takeoff and trailing throttle and slow descents to avoid shock cooling, warm up laps for tires and cool down laps for engines... thanks!!

 

[84rzv500r]

exhaust all done waiting on 8 oem style hose clamps...i think it came out for using hairy eyeball engineering and the magic 8 ball...

 

[84rzv500r]

tidbit to get your blood, nay... oil pumping...

MR-1 Cranks