DIY steering cable replacement, pump pulls & cone lube check

[fairpilot]

what primer and paint was used on intake grates

 

[fairpilot]

thought the grease in the cones was something special, what did you use on them. thought I read all these things about it having to be kinda liquidy.

 

[Seadeals]

Hi @fairpilot
Primer: https://duplicolor.com/product/self-etching-primer

I have tried two paints.
Original port pump refurb:
Paint: http://www.vhtpaint.com/specialty/vht-epoxy-all-weather-paint
Starboard pump refurb and port touch-up:
Paint: https://duplicolor.com/product/wheel-coating

I removed corrosion spots with a more docile 3m abrasive wheel but you never seem to get it all. A few of the tougher spots inevitably resurfaced so I have done touch-ups once a season.

I know you are just asking about grates; but I also reported elsewhere the paint does fail where I used it on the pump parts. This is due to heat from the exhaust. It happened quickly (on first use during the Cooper River run last year). Port sides of pumps held up pretty well. (Today)The starboard side of the pumps are exposed to exhaust heat and that proved too much for the paint/primer combo. (Today)

You can see the "bare" metal is still the etched surface from the primer so it still met my primary objective to fight corrosion. Also, those new steering cables were silver out of the box; but changed to the brass color very quickly. That exhaust heat is no joke.

 

[fairpilot]

That is a very harsh enviroment, Im sure almost any paint will fail, i thought i saw someone who color etched these parts, not sure the process, maybe some form of anodizing, possibly maybe a metal shop could give some insight. As for the grates, Im sure it is very difficult to keep paint on those also, the grit in the water tears this stuff up.

My SX210 is now the big 10 and I enjoy doing inspections and routine maintenance to get things back in top shape. My starboard steering cable has been taking on water. Steering is still smooth and easy; but to prevent an unexpected failure on the water, I am replacing both steering cables. With the right tooling, there may be a way to do so without pulling the pumps; but as I like pulling, inspecting and cleaning the pumps in the off season anyway, it will make access easier and I will show the breakdown of the pump assemblies including a check of the grease for the impeller shaft bearing inside the cone. While I have not owned this boat her whole life, I believe no one has ever checked the cones.

I am pulling the entire pump assembly. Disconnect the steering and reverse gate linkages at the nozzle. Start pump removal with the small bolt near the intake passage.
View attachment 31708
Next remove the four bolts on each corner of the pump housing.
View attachment 31709
The housings have doweling pins. I use a soft rubber mallet to tap alternating sides of the pump to walk it out until the annular recess clears. You will also have friction from the impeller shaft spline as it backs out. Here it is just after it separates. Pull it out in-line until the impeller shaft clears.
View attachment 31710
Here is the mounting plate that remains with the reverse gate and steering cables. I put the bolts back in to keep track and in the same hole (however the main four are all the same).
View attachment 31711
Here is a photo of the intake and the impeller shaft tube. Note the black paint and some visible pitting starting to appear from underlying corrosion. I cleaned off most of the corrosion, treated and painted this three years ago.
View attachment 31712
Here is the starboard side, which I have yet to address other than a good cleaning. The Port side originally looked like this. The clean-out plug is removed, so you can see where it locks in. It was no surprise the prior owner has issues with stuck plugs. Installing the plug repair kit when I first bought the boat ended that trouble; but this could not have helped, especially when it was dirty.
View attachment 31713
Here are both pumps out and on the counter.
View attachment 31714
The starboard impeller has some rust spots; but is free of any damage.
View attachment 31716
I had Impros refurb the port impeller when I cleaned up the intake. It is still looking very good after three years of decent use. Everything on the port pump is cleaner since I have given it attention before and it also came off and apart very easily compared to the starboard side. The small brown object on the shaft was actually a piece of leaf that got stuck in the space between the impeller shaft and impeller. It pulled right out.
View attachment 31717
Nozzles are the same; but as the impellers are pitched differently, it is important to keep components together/matched, so label to help keep track.
View attachment 31715
Separate the steering nozzles by removing one bolt on the top and one on the bottom. Separate the fixed nozzle by removing the four long bolts which attach all three sections. There are pry tabs built into the housing on each side. You need to slowly work them apart (back and forth side to side) until the sections clear the pins and mating surfaces. Most of the pins are usually snug in one side or the other; but one of mine was loose, so be sure to note them and keep track of them.

Once the nozzle is off, you can access the cone. I am pretty sure this is original grease from 2006; not as bad as I expected. Note the coverage on the ball bearings. I think the lighter color in the cone may be grease with water contamination. I think this would have lasted a lot longer though I always worried what they were like every time I heard the engines sound a little funny (mostly just a piece of debris in the pump).
View attachment 31718
Here is the starboard side. I am sure this would have gone bad first. there is a lot less grease in the actual bearing. Note most is all the lighter color and the congealed grease around the cone flange where it was at the bearing. Now I get to look up the cone lube thread (no dirty thoughts on that one, please).
View attachment 31719
Back to the boat and steering cables. I learned what a pass-through socket was researching the cable replacement. I bought a set that happened to go all the way up to 7/8 at Lowes for $35. I like them a lot, so this was a great excuse for more tools.
View attachment 31720
Before I started removing the cable nut, I measured the threads to the linkage end as a reference for when the new cables go in.
View attachment 31723
Then I removed the linkage end so the pass-through socket could pass down the cable end. Here is the 3/8 drive 7/8" Kobalt pass-through socket on the steering cable nut. I am glad the pump was out of the way.
View attachment 31721
Here is the nut and washer removed. This is siliconed when it goes in so there is friction on the hardware and the cable through the hole in the hull until you break the silicone.
View attachment 31722
Here is the other end of the steering cables where they come into the helm (looking up).
View attachment 31724
Here is where they actually attach to the steering unit (now looking down).
View attachment 31725
Once disconnected, you may want access to the right bow compartment area and beneath the floor (fuel tank access). The first time I removed the floor was a royal pain. I cleaned up bolts along with the gunk in the holes, and ordered some new bolts where needed (I had to cut the head off of one to get it out). I pull the floor at the end of every season to top off my tank as much as possible without getting gas in the filler tube. Some have posted on fuel expansion leaking gas out and ruining their decals. Note the bubble of fuel visible on the tank top. I also like to inspect for any leaks, check clamps and look for any other issues.
View attachment 31726
This is as far as I have gotten, so I will continue the post once cables arrive.

What did you put back in the cones for grease for the bearings thought a special grease had to go in there

 

[Seadeals]

The paint holds up fine on the grates. I blasted and anodized the nozzle and reverse gate; but the pump housing has the steel wear ring and I didn't think that combo would anodize The other section has the shaft bearings and I didn't want to break it all down just to anodize so I blasted off the corrosion etched and painted instead.

The slurry is royal purple ultra performance grease with royal purple 80w-90 synthetic oil mixed in until reaching a desired ooze consistency. It was thick enough for me to get the cone back on before pouring out.

Keep in mind, unless you disassemble the impeller shaft and bearings from the housing, you are only really greasing the aft (exposed) bearing. My intention with this was to get a thinner mix of lubrication in there to keep things covered.

 

[Art Traver]

I just picked up a 2007 sx210. Going through the threads I saw how easy it was to check and repack the bearings, and not knowing the maintenance history on the boat it seemed like a good idea. Only issue I had was re-installing the starboard pump. I was able to seat the unit, but it kept wanting to push itself back about 1/4". Has any one else experienced this, or should I remove the pump again and try to reseat.

 

[Bruce]

Only issue I had was re-installing the starboard pump. I was able to seat the unit, but it kept wanting to push itself back about 1/4". Has any one else experienced this, or should I remove the pump again and try to reseat.

Did you grease the splines before reassembling the pumps?

 

[Seadeals]

Good question. It seems like the well greased splines may create a seal that can initially compress (trap) air in the sleeve for a push-back effect.

 

[Art Traver]

yes, i greased the spline. i used 2-4-D marine lube, same as i have used when i had an outboard. the spline seemed to slip in fine, no binding.

 

[Bruce]

yes, i greased the spline

As @Seadeals pointed out the grease was likely holding air in.

 

[Art Traver]

so most likely not an issue, the air will bleed out

 

[fairpilot]

If it seats when you push it in I would say it fine, mine wanted to pop back a small amount after greasing, bolt it down all should be ok

 

[Seadeals]

@RT140 shared another good tool option for the nut on the steering cables:

https://www.amazon.com/CARBYNE-Oxygen-Sensor-Offset-Puller/dp/B01LYS167V/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1502495261&sr=8-1&keywords=7/8"+CARBYNE+Oxygen+(O2)+Sensor+Offset+Puller.

It is cheaper than the wrench set I bought.

 

[bobbyc]

Hi, just bought a 2008 AR230. Spending the next week going thru it and finding a lot of stuff I missed during the pre-buy. All these yamaha jet boats seem to have a unused large bolt hole just above the steering cable on both jets. From the pictures in this thread, it looks like it is filled with marine sealant? Both mine seem to have nothing in it.
Is this bolt hole self contained or does it pass thru to the hull? I tried sticking a long zip tie in it and it kept going.

If you look at the 2nd picture above, in post #23, it is the hole above the steering cable, that is filled with dark gray sealant.

 

[fairpilot]

I don't believe that should have sealant in it. That is a water bypass for cooling system when I hook hose up and start boat, water comes from that hole. Mine is a 2006 with MR1 engines

 

[Mozen]

Greetings from the RedSea area,
Great post @Seadeals btw.
I reached a point where I removed the nut and washer but was unable to remove the cable. It somehow stuck and not moving at all. I removed the silicone behind the washer. That's easy but no clue how how to remove the cable after this step. Any tip

 

[Bruce]

Greetings from the RedSea area,
Great post @Seadeals btw.
I reached a point where I removed the nut and washer but was unable to remove the cable. It somehow stuck and not moving at all. I removed the silicone behind the washer. That's easy but no clue how how to remove the cable after this step. Any tip

There should be a large clump of silicone inside the hull holding the cable. There also are cable ties along the cable at various points.

You have to remove the bilge cover that includes the clean out plug ports to access the silicone inside the hull.

 

[Seadeals]

Thanks @Mozen I think I threaded the nut back on a tiny bit (as a stop) and used a short piece of metal conduit (tube) over the cable end to the nut and then just tapped with a hammer to break the silicone and punch it through.

 

[Mozen]

Quick update.

Tools are ready for some action !


Measuring the cable for assembly actions


Removing the cable
Initially I tried to hammer the front end but thought It was not a good way to proceed. too much damage !

Then I built on @Bruce tip .... I removed Clean out plug ports to access the other end (back end) of the steering cable.


So happy to see the back end inside. The cable is waiting for some more & more action. I removed the silicone and nothing was changed. I went back to hammer the front end with no luck.
Then I used a "Curved Jaw Locking Clamp Plier" to the back end . It was the right perfect tool. Moved it back and forth till the cable became loose. I highly advise this way.


Now the cable is out. I noticed that there are two locking materials . Silicone and some kind of "white" locking on the thread. No clue so far when putting everything back. Any tip?


The whole procedure took me abot 1.5 hrs. An hour just to remove the silicone from cover of clean out plug ports. That's all from now ... more to come

I'd appreciate any forward tips and tricks ...

 

[Bruce]

The white material on the thread is likely high temperature thread locker.