SX230 not started in 3 years ... Suggestions?

[Beachbummer]

Impacted plug is hard to explain as anything other than bad news. Can you share a picture? I would suggest removing plugs and rotating engine by hand to confirm it's locked up.Were there any odd noises ahead of time? It may be worth to remove pump to rule that out, but a smashed plug can't be explained at the pump.My boat recently started clicking vs starting and the starter solenoid had gone bad...again options if your plug was not smashed. Do you have a VoltMeter? you could measure voltage as you crank, and should see a good voltage drop as the starter does its best to crank your engine. Spinning it by hand with no spark plugs on would be a good health check of the engine too.

 

[PaulyB]

Update:

Changed fluids, sparks, and fogged cylinders + Diluted gas and put in seafoam.

Boat ran like a CHAMP on Wednesday of last week - aside from being a bit dirty there were no issues. Cleaning plug seals are in good condition, not swollen or anything. Stored the boat with cleaning plugs out per recommendation above.

Took out the boat this past sunday, Starboard engine started fine, port engine ran rough and ended up dying. Tried to crank it a few times and it would not turn over. Took out the spark plugs to find one of them impacted! Whoops, definitely not what I was expecting!

Replaced the plug, brought it back to the water, starboard started fine (has self check beeps), port did not have self check beeps and cranked but did not turn over. Initially thought it may have been the ignition switch, but swapped them over and both are good 2 go. Engine is making a loud clank, and a whine noise. (video below)

My suspicion is that a piston may have impacted the spark due to it running lean and it may have seized. Have also read that a stuck/corroded impeller seal could do this?

Would love any suggestions/input from owners and experts!

VIDEO OF SOUND:

Thanks again to everyone who has been helpful here, hope to get a bit more use out of it this season and really would love to save the $4000 for some cold ones rather than a new engine!

Just so you know the beep on the starboard key is not indicative of anything for the motors. The depth finder is tied into the starboard ignition switch to apply power when the switch is in the run position. The beep is only the depth finder getting power and turning on.

 

[Phayl]

Impacted plug is hard to explain as anything other than bad news. Can you share a picture? I would suggest removing plugs and rotating engine by hand to confirm it's locked up.Were there any odd noises ahead of time? It may be worth to remove pump to rule that out, but a smashed plug can't be explained at the pump.My boat recently started clicking vs starting and the starter solenoid had gone bad...again options if your plug was not smashed. Do you have a VoltMeter? you could measure voltage as you crank, and should see a good voltage drop as the starter does its best to crank your engine. Spinning it by hand with no spark plugs on would be a good health check of the engine too.

Yep, will remove them and try to spin it. Noob question, what am I spinning it by? Shaft in the cleanouts?

Only odd noises was the engine idle running rough and a metal sound which initially I thought may be a spark tip in cylinder but the tip was just smashed in. Pump being the fuel pump?

 

[Phayl]

Just so you know the beep on the starboard key is not indicative of anything for the motors. The depth finder is tied into the starboard ignition switch to apply power when the switch is in the run position. The beep is only the depth finder getting power and turning on.

Thank you so much for this, glad to know that it's just the depth finder! For some reason thought it was a self-test horn

 

[Brad_Ct]

Yep, will remove them and try to spin it. Noob question, what am I spinning it by? Shaft in the cleanouts?

Only odd noises was the engine idle running rough and a metal sound which initially I thought may be a spark tip in cylinder but the tip was just smashed in. Pump being the fuel pump?

I have found that if you remove the shield over the shaft coupler at the rear of the engine (1 10mm bolt) you can get a pipe wrench on the coupler and turn the engine over that way.

Both my engines make a metal clattering noise out of the water and beleave it is the gear reduction units because it does it with or without the pumps removed, I will find out next week when I put it in the water but I think it will go away when a load is put on them.

 

[Phayl]

I have found that if you remove the shield over the shaft coupler at the rear of the engine (2 10mm bolts) you can get a pipe wrench on the coupler and turn the engine over that way.

Both my engines make a metal clattering noise out of the water and beleave it is the gear reduction units because it does it with or without the pumps removed, I will find out next week when I put it in the water but I think it will go away when a load is put on them.

Not quite sure how to do that, have pics/diagram of it?

Also update: changed plugs on cylinder 3 and it ate through two plugs now (impact based). Stbd engine runs fine without issue, no hesitation so I want to rule out fueling. Port engine still making the same whine and clunk, as if it's seized. Any other ideas based on the video linked prior?

 

[BigAbe75]

Only odd noises was the engine idle running rough and a metal sound which initially I thought may be a spark tip in cylinder but the tip was just smashed in. Pump being the fuel pump?

Generally, references like the one above to “your pump” or something similar will refer to the jet pump. On the rear of the boat, 4 bolts and you can pull the entire jet pump and impeller / shaft out of the boat.

If referencing a fuel pump per se, most would spell that out. It’s fairly common for folks to pull the jet pump when changing cones, checking for debris that could be clogging the impeller or cooling screen. So, it’s mentioned a little more casually as “the pump”.

So, they are saying pull the jet pump housing off, and try spinning the impeller by hand to see if the engine will turn.

Also, if you haven’t seen the schematics on the parts sites like this one, it may help you get a feel for how things go together. Just pick your year and model.

Yamaha Sport Boat OEM Parts, Babbitts Online

Shop our large selection of Yamaha Sport Boat OEM parts, original equipment manufacturer parts and more online or call at (231)737-4542

www.babbittsonline.com

 

[Brad_Ct]

Not quite sure how to do that, have pics/diagram of it?

Also update: changed plugs on cylinder 3 and it ate through two plugs now (impact based). Stbd engine runs fine without issue, no hesitation so I want to rule out fueling. Port engine still making the same whine and clunk, as if it's seized. Any other ideas based on the video linked prior?

If you lay down on top of the engine and look down you will see a plastic piece that covers the engine output and intermediate shaft coupling, it is held on by a 10mm bolt and two rubber bushings. Remove the bolt and slide the cover to the stern and you will see the coupler.

 

[Phayl]

Generally, references like the one above to “your pump” or something similar will refer to the jet pump. On the rear of the boat, 4 bolts and you can pull the entire jet pump and impeller / shaft out of the boat.

If referencing a fuel pump per se, most would spell that out. It’s fairly common for folks to pull the jet pump when changing cones, checking for debris that could be clogging the impeller or cooling screen. So, it’s mentioned a little more casually as “the pump”.

So, they are saying pull the jet pump housing off, and try spinning the impeller by hand to see if the engine will turn.

Also, if you haven’t seen the schematics on the parts sites like this one, it may help you get a feel for how things go together. Just pick your year and model.

Yamaha Sport Boat OEM Parts, Babbitts Online

Shop our large selection of Yamaha Sport Boat OEM parts, original equipment manufacturer parts and more online or call at (231)737-4542

www.babbittsonline.com

Got it, took apart the jet assembly and tried the impeller by hand as the teeth were in the respective grooves and could not spin it by hand.

Thanks for the schematics, actually did help me understand what all I'm working with!

 

[Phayl]

If you lay down on top of the engine and look down you will see a plastic piece that covers the engine output and intermediate shaft coupling, it is held on by a 10mm bolt and two rubber bushings. Remove the bolt and slide the cover to the stern and you will see the coupler.

Found it, gotta love 10mm's LOL, didn't lose this one thankfully! Tried to rotate it by the coupler and could not unfortunately.

Any other suggestions? I think a teardown may be necessary and have a tough time trusting dealers and shops. Everyone wants to "replace the engine" which turns out to be a 4-5k job. I suspect a rod is bent/valve is dropped at this point.

 

[Phayl]

Update: Dropped the boat at a local shop a month ago, have been struggling to get anything done and have been blown off constantly by the service advisor/manager. Going to pickup the boat and part ways, NOTHING has been done. At this point I think I could have torn it apart and figured something out.

Any advice/manuals for tearing apart the FX HO 160HP MR1 engine? Does it need to come out of the boat?

Additionally, does anyone have suggestions for shops around the Dallas area that will work on this type of boat in the case that I don't feel comfortable doing it myself?

Thanks in advance!

 

[Scottintexas]

what local shop are you currently trying to use?
I might suggest 3d power sports in Lewisville, I've never used them but they work on skis,

pulling the engine isn't difficult at all and if you needed you could get a rebuild from SBT,

 

[Phayl]

what local shop are you currently trying to use?
I might suggest 3d power sports in Lewisville, I've never used them but they work on skis,

pulling the engine isn't difficult at all and if you needed you could get a rebuild from SBT,

Shop @ Pier121 Lewisville, not sure if saying "avoid XYZ name of shop" is against the forum rules, but I would definitely avoid them. Disturbing lack of communication and high levels of overpromising followed by underachieving.

Spoke to a bunch of local shops and some in ATX, most places work on ski's but not boats, and dealer won't work on a boat that's older than 10 years. Cheapest quote was $5,500 for new engine in down in ATX with SBT exchange. Highest price was $9,500 from a guy local to here.

Considering doing the new block for $3500 from SBT and putting it in myself, mechanically inclined and have read through SBT's (limited) instructions.
Is it possible to put in a new engine without a hoist? Was able to lift the bottom of the block by myself but not sure I'd be able to place it in with precision.

 

[GTBRMC]

Is it possible to put in a new engine without a hoist? Was able to lift the bottom of the block by myself but not sure I'd be able to place it in with precision.

Strongly suggest you look into renting an engine hoist if you need to pull and/or reinstall an engine. Much better control than muscling it in place (If it is even possible) plus much, much lower chance of serious injury. Back injuries are devastating financially and otherwise.

One option: Engine Hoist Rental | Sunbelt Rentals

 

[buckbuck]

Having pulled an engine I totally agree with @GTBRMC . It is not a difficult process but you will be working low in the engine bay.

 

[Phayl]

Strongly suggest you look into renting an engine hoist if you need to pull and/or reinstall an engine. Much better control than muscling it in place (If it is even possible) plus much, much lower chance of serious injury. Back injuries are devastating financially and otherwise.

One option: Engine Hoist Rental | Sunbelt Rentals

Fair enough, where would you place the hoist? A tall hoist on the ground or a normal car hoist in the passenger cabin of the boat works fine? Have the latter and think it would work fine like that, but just curious!

Agreed on that last part, funny enough in the Chiro/Rehab business so all too familiar with back injuries!

Thanks for the prompt reply.

 

[Phayl]

Having pulled an engine I totally agree with @GTBRMC . It is not a difficult process but you will be working low in the engine bay.

Sounds like that's the move. Any other guide/tips aside from what's in the SBT guide? I've watched videos on an MR-1 swap in a PWC and there seems to be A LOT of small things/ties/clips to pay attention to. SBT guide doesn't cover that.

 

[Brad_Ct]

A normal automotive engine hoist will not work, You will need a gantry or something similar to pull the engine. Attached are pictures of the one I built, it’s 10’ high and 10’ wide made out of 2x8 and 2x4 lumber. I attached a chain hoist to the top cross bar and once the engine was high enough pulled the boat out from under it.
.

 

[buckbuck]

I had access to a fork truck so it was relatively easy. Can't really comment other than to say find a way to lift it out.
I found the shop manual to be quite accurate and provided a step by step process . I strongly recommend having it with you as you dive in.

 

[Beachbummer]

I can vouch for Brad's plan. I used a similar contraption to replace the engines on my older jet boat and it worked out great. Be sure it's strong and stable. Other alternative is to use an existing structure (Beam? Tree?) Safety first, be sure it will hold.