What do I need to do to Summerize my boat?

[DLong]

Not sure summerize is a word, but dealer did winterization and I want to get her ready for use....was a wonderful weekend and I was thinking about boating.

 

[motorboater]

Shouldnt have to do much other than make sure everything is in order. Make sure your battery is charged up and holding a charge. Check your fire extinquisher and all the boat systems... steering, lighting, throttles, bilge pump, etc is all working. Check oil. Assuming the dealer changed your oil and filters. I like to start the engines on land before I go out for the first time of the season. Just let them run for a few seconds, mostly just so you know they will start at the landing.

Make sure all your stuff is still there like anchors, ropes, life vests, throwable, kill switch lanyard, etc. Put the drain plugs and cleanout plugs in when you get to the landing.

Thats probably about it other than cleaning the dust off it, filling your cooler with beer and putting a scantily clad chick or two aboard.

If you're boating this weekend I am insanely jealous.

 

[jcyamaharider]

Forgot the most important thing....just add water!!

 

[davel501]

Put it in the water and go real fast. If something gets in your way, turn.

It would not hurt to inspect all of the hoses, clamps, through hulls, etc., etc., grease the bearings on boat and trailer, change the plugs and oil if needed and make it all clean and shiney inside and out.

 

[KXCam22]

Also don't forget the trailer, tire pressure and bearing lube and lite check. In my posted winterizing list page 2 is a summerizing list that I use. Cam.

 

[jawsf16]

It's really simply about double checking everything is good to go. There is no magic summerize process which is a huge benefit of these boats.

 

[itsdgm]

Here's what I do every spring to get the boat mechanically ready:
1. Oil change
2. Change the spark plugs
3. Lube the main seals
4. Put fuel injector cleaner in tank
5. Check steering - to make sure steering cables didn't rust over the winter
6. Check Bearing Buddies
7. Check brake fluid level on trailer
8. I also like to drive the trailer around the block a few times making sure to stop forcefully enough to activate the brakes. Then I will jack up each wheel and see how smoothly it rotates. Also checking to make sure there's no "slop" in the bearings and that the brakes aren't hanging up.

Sounds like a lot of stuff, but everything can be done in a few hours if you have oil/plugs/filters/etc handy before starting.

 

[Boat Crazy]

Good list Dennis. I would just add that if your dealership fogged your engine, I would recommend running the engines for a short time to burn off the fogging oil before changing plugs.

 

[itsdgm]

Good list Dennis. I would just add that if your dealership fogged your engine, I would recommend running the engines for a short time to burn off the fogging oil before changing plugs.

That's true. I climb aboard about once a month and fire my engines while it's stored so I'm one of those guys that doesn't fog.

 

[Boat Crazy]

@DLong . If you add your location in your profile, that helps others at times to assist you. Sometimes North, South, salt water changes procedures. It will also than put you on the member map.

 

[Impelled]

X2 on the great list Dennis. On your #4 I usually put a can of Seafoam thru the tank of old gas. We (Linda) also throw a coat of wax on the fiberglass and 303 protectant on the vinyl....cause we been couped up all winter and love the workout! DLong, the basic stuff on a newer boat is not really a big deal. The engines are easier to maintain than the trailer or keeping it clean. Elbow sweat...........but then......I got a Linda

 

[Joshb723]

How do you check the brake fluid level?

 

[itsdgm]

How do you check the brake fluid level?

I'm not sure if yours is the same. But my MFI trailer has a UFP surge brake system. Up front on the tongue, just behind the coupler there is a cap. Twist the cap to remove it. Then under the plastic cap there is a rubber plug, remove the rubber plug and the fluid sits underneath. The rubber plug has a "dipstick" built into it.

Keep in mind that the tongue must be extended all the way in order to access the rubber plug. Don't worry, if that doesn't make sense, it will when you try to check it.

 

[Joshb723]

Thanks for posting that. I don't have an mfi I have a shore lander, but I do remember seeing that cap. I've never checked the brake fluid before, but I'll give it a shot tomorrow. Thanks again for your post. I've been searching for a video of the bearing buddies to see how much grease I need to put in there, I don't have the ones with the blue sleeves I have I think the bb2.

 

[tdonoughue]

P.S. Brake fluid absorbs water very well. And absorbing water destroys the fluid. Do not check it in the rain. In high humidity, work quickly.

 

[Boat Crazy]

Thanks for posting that. I don't have an mfi I have a shore lander, but I do remember seeing that cap. I've never checked the brake fluid before, but I'll give it a shot tomorrow. Thanks again for your post. I've been searching for a video of the bearing buddies to see how much grease I need to put in there, I don't have the ones with the blue sleeves I have I think the bb2.

You may have the type that has a grease release hole on the side of the bearing buddy. Mine has that type but it is an MFI trailer.

 

[KXCam22]

I suppose a guy should change the brake fluid in the trailer once in awhile. Cam.

 

[tdonoughue]

Especially in humid climates, but even then I think the spec is on the order of 4 or 5 years. In AZ or somewhere I don't think I would ever change it. The system is closed, so there is no fluid to use or get dirty. You are checking it to make sure the system does not have a leak. If you see a fluid drop, you should add more fluid, but more importantly find the leak.

I know more about brakes than boats...

 

[Suchawittygal]

We're getting ready to change the oil and plugs...stupid question, how long do we run the engines before we change the plugs and oil??
Please be patient with me, this is our actual first season start with the boat. And yes, I'm a bit nervous!

 

[Impelled]

I would change the plugs on a cold engine. I change my oil after warming up the boat a few minutes. If the oil is too hot , it'll collapse the oil line. Let it cool a bit if too hot. I almost melted the hose once into the oil....too hot! Warm....not hot....I've made all the mistakes...haha

BTW- I only change plugs about every 3 yrs. Just when I can't get 10,200 rpms....time to change. They still didn't look bad, but I didn't want the plug to freeze in the cylinder. Use that plug grease 'never seize' or it's equal