Trailer / Trailering Upgrades

[Ronnie]

Context:

I currently use my 2010 MFI trailer which is galvanized and which I’ve painted black with bed-liner paint. Additionally, I’ve installed bolts through the base of the bow post to keep it from moving back and forth. Other upgrades and updates are a ramp n clamp, boat buckles, Fulton f2 winch and trailer Jack, bunk slides, aftermarket rims and tires, trailer guides a rear view camera, LED lights and finally a new rear axle and brake calipers as of three years ago.

A few months ago I bought a 2017 AR 240 and a painted Shorelander trailer (stock except for trailer guides) from a member here which I’ve since decided to use instead of the 2010 MFi trailer.

That stated this string will cover the upgrades I’m doing to the 2017 Shorelander.

First: Replacing or supplementing the OEM trailer jack. I went with an ARK,Black Edition.

Second: I bought a magnetic “D” key along with a reverse lock out cap that replaces the plastic brake fluid cover.

Third: I bought a Rock-N-Ball and a draw bar with a 4” drop as well as an anti rattle collar to minimize the noises and vibrations while towing.

I will be updating this thread as I make additional changes.

 

[HangOutdoors]

Nice upgrades. I really like the ARK and swear by it.

 

[Ronnie]

I just found out that I can use my cordless drill to raise and lower the wheel on the Ark. I would buy it again just for this feature. It’s not super difficult to crank the handle but my body lets me know that i’m getting older all the time and a little more when I do things like crank the handle.

This also means I don’t need to buy a spare handle for the times the handle is forgotten, lost or stolen. I think they should have added a set screw or two to the base of the magnetic handle (to make it permanent if desired) but overall I’m still happy with the ark, so far anyway.

 

[HangOutdoors]

I just found out that I can use my cordless drill to raise and lower the wheel on the Ark. I would buy it again just for this feature. It’s not super difficult to crank the handle but my body lets me know that im getting older all the time and a little more when I do things liken crank the handle.

this also means I don’t need to by a spare handle for the times I forget, lose or the handle is stolen. I think they should have added a set screw or two to the base of the magnetic handle but overall I’m still happy with the ark, so far anyway.
View attachment 197462

That is a pro tip right there

 

[Ronnie]

I bought a draw bar with a 4” drop and a rocker ball to go with it. I also installed an anti rattle collar on the assembly. Overall it did a great job of reducing the noises that are produced when stopping and starting. However, I didnt account for the 2” height of the base of the rock n ball so my boat trailer was not level when hooked up to the tow vehicle, it was 2” too high. I ended up solving the problem the old fashioned way, threw more money at it by buying a drawbar with a 6” drop and another with rock n ball.

The new draw bar has a cushion in it. Here is a pic of the components. I plan to use the other new assembly when I tow my Waverunner trailer around because it allows that trailer to sit level.

 

[HangOutdoors]

@Ronnie Part link for new Draw Bar with cusion?

 

[Scoop]

Ronnie,

I am in the market for a few of those - can you please post purchase/model number links for us to order from.

Thanks Scoop

 

[SENKE70]

Is painting with bed-liner paint the best thing todo to a new trailer ?

 

[Ronnie]

Ronnie,

I am in the market for a few of those - can you please post purchase/model number links for us to order from.

Thanks Scoop

Here are pics of the parts I ordered from Amazon and e trailer. They may different sized (receiver and drop) drawbars, just so you know.

 

[Ronnie]

Is painting with bed-liner paint the best thing todo to a new trailer ?

I don’t know about it being the best thing to do. I painted my galvanized trailer with bedliner paint just to change the color. After doing so twice (the second time on my Waverunner trailer), I wouldn’t use bedliner paint again. It’s a dust and dirt magnet that you can’t simply wash off. Repainting /Re coating is in order.

 

[Scoop]

Ronnie - I am going to replace my trailer jack and am leaning toward the ARK like you pictured above. Other than buying the Black jack at $349 is there anything else I need to do to ensure it fits my Shorelander for a 2018 24 foot boat?

I also noticed a lighter weight version for a lot less but the weight/travel seemed insufficient so I am thinking the $349 jack. I think the two models are the 500 or the 750? Can you list the model number or any specifics so I make ssure I order the correct one. Thanks.

Scoop

 

[HangOutdoors]

Amazon.com: Ark Trailer Jack XO750 Black Edition Extreme : Automotive

Here is the lighter colored one.

XO750 Trailer Jack – Ark Portable Power (arkcorporation.us)

 

[Ronnie]

@Scoop , @HangOutdoors list the correct ark I bought, it’s a 750. For my 2017 shorelander trailer I had to purchase 4 longer mounting bolts. The stock ones are about 1/2” short, I bought an inch longer and went galvanized from Home Depot.

 

[Scoop]

Thanks for all the help and information guys. I upgraded to the Ark and modifed the orignal Shorelander WInch arm to receive the Ark jack.

I had to remove the winch arm to buff out some scratches and since it was off decided to modify it. Much cleaner and seems a lot sturdier. The original shorelander bolted to the winch plate with only two bolts but I used all four bolts from the Ark. The predrilled holes on the winch arm that recieve the two pins from the blue U-handle didn't match up exactly but with a
little elbow grease and a round metal metal file I was able to match them up nciely.

The ark u bolts and brackets (seen on the floor in the below photo) did not seem to fit my trailer just right and I just did not like the look. The Ark hardware worked perfectly with the shorelander winch arm.

 

[Ronnie]

Thanks for all the help and information guys. I upgraded to the Ark and modifed the orignal Shorelander WInch arm to receive the Ark jack.

I had to remove the winch arm to buff out some scratches and since it was off decided to modify it. Much cleaner and seems a lot sturdier. The original shorelander bolted to the winch plate with only two bolts but I used all four bolts from the Ark. The predrilled holes on the winch arm that recieve the two pins from the blue U-handle didn't match up exactly but with a
little elbow grease and a round metal View attachment 200472View attachment 200473metal file I was able to match them up nciely.

The ark u bolts and brackets (seen on the floor in the below photo) did not seem to fit my trailer just right and I just did not like the look. The Ark hardware worked perfectly with the shorelander winch arm.

Your setup looks stock, very nice. I may convert to what you have in the future, right now I am focused on getting my boat back on the water so plan to just leave the stock trailer Jack in place with the arc. However, I would rather have the arc on my side of the trailer but that’s not how shorelander designed these trailers.

 

[HangOutdoors]

However, I would rather have the arc on my side of the trailer but that’s not how shorelander designed these trailers.

This.

 

[Scoop]

Do the RockerBall Hitch balls make a noticeable difference? I am considering that upgrade but have been towing for years without it and I guess I am just used to all the clunking around back there.

 

[Ronnie]

Do the RockerBall Hitch balls make a noticeable difference? I am considering that upgrade but have been towing for years without it and I guess I am just used to all the clunking around back there.

I haven’t had/used them long enough to say for sure but they definitively help. I think the anti rattle devices and cushioned draw bar help more. One consideration is that the rock n ball sits on a mount which will change the tow height of the drawbar.

 

[drober30]

Thanks for all the help and information guys. I upgraded to the Ark and modifed the orignal Shorelander WInch arm to receive the Ark jack.

I had to remove the winch arm to buff out some scratches and since it was off decided to modify it. Much cleaner and seems a lot sturdier. The original shorelander bolted to the winch plate with only two bolts but I used all four bolts from the Ark. The predrilled holes on the winch arm that recieve the two pins from the blue U-handle didn't match up exactly but with a
little elbow grease and a round metal View attachment 200472View attachment 200473metal file I was able to match them up nciely.

The ark u bolts and brackets (seen on the floor in the below photo) did not seem to fit my trailer just right and I just did not like the look. The Ark hardware worked perfectly with the shorelander winch arm.

You had to drill two new holes in the winch arm? My trailer is painted and not sure if I want to drill holes that might start to rust.

 

[Scoop]

No - all the holes were already there but I had to enlarge two of the holes about 1/8 of an inch to get the telescoping pins to seat fully. Definitely something to consider on a painted trailer since enlarging the holes will also strip the paint.