• Welcome to Jetboaters.net!

    We are delighted you have found your way to the best Jet Boaters Forum on the internet! Please consider Signing Up so that you can enjoy all the features and offers on the forum. We have members with boats from all the major manufacturers including Yamaha, Seadoo, Scarab and Chaparral. We don't email you SPAM, and the site is totally non-commercial. So what's to lose? IT IS FREE!

    Membership allows you to ask questions (no matter how mundane), meet up with other jet boaters, see full images (not just thumbnails), browse the member map and qualifies you for members only discounts offered by vendors who run specials for our members only! (It also gets rid of this banner!)

    free hit counter

Trailer / Trailering Upgrades

No - all the holes were already there but I had to enlarge two of the holes about 1/8 of an inch to get the telescoping pins to seat fully. Definitely something to consider on a painted trailer since enlarging the holes will also strip the paint.

OK because I'm sure mine will look like this and there are only two holes so must be different trailers/winch arms.

I'm going to have to take my winch arm off anyway to get to the nuts to remove the factory jack.
 

Attachments

  • Two Holes_.jpeg
    Two Holes_.jpeg
    530.6 KB · Views: 58
  • Two Holes.png
    Two Holes.png
    379.4 KB · Views: 54
So I upgraded to the Ark and promptly lost the "Magnetic" Handle. My diligent research has in fact confirmed that its not magentic enough to keep from falling off. :eek:

Does anyone know where I can find a replacement.

Thanks Scoop
 
Reach out ARK, directly, tell them what happend maybe they will send you one, or sell you one. I take my handle off after each use. They are not meant to stay on while towing. Somewhere on the forums, someone used a socket type and a cordless drill and it worked great. Can't seem to find the thread.
 
Reach out ARK, directly, tell them what happend maybe they will send you one, or sell you one. I take my handle off after each use. They are not meant to stay on while towing. Somewhere on the forums, someone used a socket type and a cordless drill and it worked great. Can't seem to find the thread.
I was able to use An 18v Ryobi cordless drill to operate the ark. It worked perfectly if not a little too fast. Bummer on the handle, try etrailer.com, that’s where I bought my ark so assume they have replacement parts as well.
 
Thanks Guys - it popped up real quick on etrailer.
 
A little feedback on the rock n hitch ball and cushioned cross bar. After towing with this combo for around 500 miles now, I can honestly say they almost completely eliminate the play which causes clicking noise when accelerating from a stop or suddenly. Worth $150? For me yes.
 
I was able to use An 18v Ryobi cordless drill to operate the ark. It worked perfectly if not a little too fast. Bummer on the handle, try etrailer.com, that’s where I bought my ark so assume they have replacement parts as well.

Ronnie, are you using a socket on that, or just tightening down the 3-jaw chuck on the drill onto the nub that the magnetic handle attaches to? I've got the Ryobi inflators and pesticide fogger, so one more cheap tool to throw in the boat tool box isn't going to be a deal breaker at those prices, but I wanna know if I'll need to dedicate a socket to the thing.
 
Ronnie, are you using a socket on that, or just tightening down the 3-jaw chuck on the drill onto the nub that the magnetic handle attaches to? I've got the Ryobi inflators and pesticide fogger, so one more cheap tool to throw in the boat tool box isn't going to be a deal breaker at those prices, but I wanna know if I'll need to dedicate a socket to the thing.
No socket, the drill’s chuck fits perfectly over the Jack’s handle stub. I will have a Ryobi drill in my on road boat tool box but I’m planning to add two set screws to the base of the handle and keep the drill around in case somehow loose the handle anyway.
 
Here are a few before and during pics. Summarily, I moved all of the tires and guides between the trailers, and built new bunks for the 2017 trailer. The new bunks are made of pressure treated lumber, coated in flex seal, covered with carpet that is held in place by the flex seal and stainless steel staples. I still need to move the Ramp n Clamp and do some touch up on both trailers and hope to have the 2010 trailer up for sale soon. IMG_3213.jpegIMG_3215.jpegIMG_3214.jpegIMG_3221.jpegIMG_3222.jpegIMG_3226.jpeg
 
Here are a few before and during pics. Summarily, I moved all of the tires and guides between the trailers, and built new bunks for the 2017 trailer. The new bunks are made of pressure treated lumber, coated in flex seal, covered with carpet that is held in place by the flex seal and stainless steel staples. I still need to move the Ramp n Clamp and do some touch up on both trailers and hope to have the 2010 trailer up for sale soon. View attachment 207489View attachment 207490View attachment 207491View attachment 207492View attachment 207493View attachment 207494
Hmm Flex seal, I’m gonna have to think about doing that too. ?
 
I like the look of that ARK, but having a removable handle is annoying. Do they make one without it? Factory jack is soooo nerve racking...
 
I like the look of that ARK, but having a removable handle is annoying. Do they make one without it? Factory jack is soooo nerve racking...

No, and I had the same reservations as you. Mine is older, so the design may have changed since then, but I've forgotten it several times, and towed with it in place without losing it. Not far, and I try to remember to take it with me when I won't be around, but @Ronnie's post about the drill to lower it was helpful. I just tried it this past weekend, and it does indeed work.
 
I like the look of that ARK, but having a removable handle is annoying. Do they make one without it? Factory jack is soooo nerve racking...

I lost mine at the boat ramp, had to order a new one for $25.

Ever hear a noise and not realize until later what it was? That was my handle hitting the ground after pulling the boat cover out of my truck...lol
 
I’ve since received and painted new fenders for the 2017 trailer and added a wireless camera system to it. So far so good with both upgrades. Also it’s so nice to have a reverse solenoid that works but i still find myself inserting the “D” key out of habit.IMG_8402.jpegIMG_8400.jpegIMG_7509.jpeg
 
Last edited:
Great item to get for long distance towing a wireless tire pressure monitoring system. They are about $30 to $50 on Amazon. Typical tire blowout happens when the pressure drops, maybe from picking up road debri tire side walls heat up and it can blow out. If you don’t know the shredded tire will start to whip around and could cause damage. It can also help identify that your trailer tongue height is incorrect. I recently changed my tires to radial Goodyear and the ride height was different and the front tires had more weight from the tandem system not being even. The temperature and pressure on them went up by 8lbs more then the back tires.
 
Where did you mount the trailer cam??
I have several options including the side of the tower, under the tower, on the edge of the swim deck, etc. so far I’m liking the under the tower spot. Once I buy a dual head 12 volt/cigarette lighter charging port I will be able to use the camera to supplement or possibly replace the boat’s two mirror.

For clarification the camera to display is a wireless connection but the camera itself still needs wired power. IMG_6549.png
 
I have several options including the side of the tower, under the tower, on the edge of the swim deck, etc. so far I’m liking the under the tower spot. Once I buy a dual head 12 volt/cigarette lighter charging port I will be able to use the camera to supplement or possibly replace the boat’s two mirror.

For clarification the camera to display is a wireless connection but the camera itself still needs wired power.


@Ronnie I dunno if I missed it above, but is that a GoPro or similar type of mount that you just bolted to the bottom of the bracket for that camera to mount it?
 
@Ronnie I dunno if I missed it above, but is that a GoPro or similar type of mount that you just bolted to the bottom of the bracket for that camera to mount it?
You got it, that is, go pro accessory bolted to the cameras mount. IMG_6551.jpegIMG_6553.jpeg
 
I used the system to watch riders on tubes I was pulling last weekend. The video was clear and can easily transmit over 100’ but I plan to limit use of the system to road towing going forward because there is a slight lag between what the camera captures and it being displayed on the monitor. It’s not much, and nothing to o be concerned about on the road, but it is enough to keep me from throttling down in time to keep the tube from flipping over/tossing my riders into the water.

Overall this is the best on road towing system I’ve ever had and I’ve had close to 10 over the past 20+ years.
IMG_6831.jpeg
IMG_6865.jpeg
IMG_6862.jpeg


IMG_6863.jpeg
 
Back
Top