AR 230 H.O no start when hot

[euro_e30]

Injector bad or ECU bad.

If it was me, I would confirm by swapping injector places on both engines, a good one with a bad one and try again. If the issue moves you know it's the injector. If not, check wiring, but it might be the ECU. As you get to this stage, as you dig at the ECU and remove the cover, anything wet or suspect?

i am correct in saying if the test an injector with YDS and it makes no clicking and just silent that it is bad? I will swap the injectors with a good one and see if it repeats it self. Is there any way to really test to see if the ECU is bad?

I have not inspected the ECU to see if is wet or water in there, after i do the injector test tomorrow i will check this out.

 

[euro_e30]

i am correct in saying if the test an injector with YDS and it makes no clicking and just silent that it is bad? I will swap the injectors with a good one and see if it repeats it self. Is there any way to really test to see if the ECU is bad?

I have not inspected the ECU to see if is wet or water in there, after i do the injector test tomorrow i will check this out.

also i want to note i just had all 8 injectors cleaned and tested they all tested ok per the shop that cleaned them they provide test reports for before and after (not sure if that means anything), but i was told i had 4 injectors that were stuck open prior to this.

 

[Beachbummer]

If you are very confident the injector is good, the boat is trying to click the injector, and can't do it.

Given that, since you likely have to remove the ECU anyway, I would swap the ecu and confirm the issue follows the ECU exactly as expected to confirm there's no wiring issue. If that happens as expected (and I hope I'm wrong) then your ECUs are not working correctly. Best of luck

 

[euro_e30]

If you are very confident the injector is good, the boat is trying to click the injector, and can't do it.

Given that, since you likely have to remove the ECU anyway, I would swap the ecu and confirm the issue follows the ECU exactly as expected to confirm there's no wiring issue. If that happens as expected (and I hope I'm wrong) then your ECUs are not working correctly. Best of luck

I’m only as confident as the gentlemen that cleaned my injectors im hoping that swapping the injectors as your stated moves with the injector leading to a bad injector , otherwise I will move to trying to swap the ecu , only concern here is the starboard motor was the one acting up but after testing with YDS it is showing a bad a bad injector on the port motor, but that motor has not been showing any problems , so this is giving me a run for my money now ,

appreciate the help I will give this a shot and report back , any other feedback or things to check for is appreciated !

 

[Beachbummer]

I agree it's suspect that the other engine is not passing the test. Something's up.

 

[David Martin]

According to YDS........in my manual and its a 2013 SX240 and it should be similar to yours...... if injector is silent the you need to check fuel injector input voltage......this is the voltage coming from the EMU to the injector connector.........if voltage is not correct that gives you 2 possible reasons.......one the wire from EMU is bad like corroded or broken connector or wire.
Second you need to test voltage at the EMU if its not to speck EMU is at fault.

 

[euro_e30]

According to YDS........in my manual and its a 2013 SX240 and it should be similar to yours...... if injector is silent the you need to check fuel injector input voltage......this is the voltage coming from the EMU to the injector connector.........if voltage is not correct that gives you 2 possible reasons.......one the wire from EMU is bad like corroded or broken connector or wire.
Second you need to test voltage at the EMU if its not to speck EMU is at fault.

Does it state what the input voltage should be? In my manual i only see the fuel injector resistance numbers but nothing for input voltage.

 

[Beachbummer]

They operate at 12V, but can generally be opened even with a 9V battery.

 

[euro_e30]

They operate at 12V, but can generally be opened even with a 9V battery.

thanks im assuming i can put a volt meter at the injector connector and use the YDS injector test to see if it signals 12v?

 

[Beachbummer]

While you run the test on the yds. Yes.

 

[Beachbummer]

And if it tests well, add the injector to create a load and check voltage also. The driver may show ok with no load but be unable to deliver real current.

 

[euro_e30]

And if it tests well, add the injector to create a load and check voltage also. The driver may show ok with no load but be unable to deliver real current.

great thanks for the info ill add this to my list of things to check

 

[David Martin]

I was going to ask you and others about that.........I was thinking about YDS for my 2013 because the price look good for the software but then I noticed in my service manual it showed connection to all the different parts.......it would take many different connectors depending on what I wanted to test............Need to do a little more research to see how many different connections I might need.

So far my Multimeter and a couple of good wires with alligator clips are working just fine............I did have to purchase a peak voltage adapter for the meter to read ECM ect.......

 

[euro_e30]

I was going to ask you and others about that.........I was thinking about YDS for my 2013 because the price look good for the software but then I noticed in my service manual it showed connection to all the different parts.......it would take many different connectors depending on what I wanted to test............Need to do a little more research to see how many different connections I might need.

So far my Multimeter and a couple of good wires with alligator clips are working just fine............I did have to purchase a peak voltage adapter for the meter to read ECM ect.......

i was going to ask how do you go about testing the ECM to see if that is faulty or not?

 

[euro_e30]

update!

so i test both motors and the injectors wires were all outputting 12v (i could not figure out how to test the voltage with the injectors installed, the wires from the top are sealed any tips?)

Initial Test:
port side motor injector 1 was dead no readings (originally)
starboard motor injector 2 was dead no reading (originally)

Final Test:
swapped a good injector into port side injector 1 and starboard motor injector 2, and ran the YDS and still dead no signal.

im assuming this leads to ecu issue?

this is mind boggling to me because the port side motor ran great no issues (but when i finally got the YDS and testing the injectors, injector #1 wont react.

starboard motor was the one with issues, so if its an ecu issue that would make sense

i know anything is possible but could both my ecu be shot at the same time if this is the case (even though the port side runs without any issues).

any thoughts on this or what i could still possibly check to isolate the ecu from any other issues?

 

[Beachbummer]

Since you are this far in, I would swap from one engine to the other and evaluate if behavior follows ecu exactly. That would confirm your definite diagnosis

 

[euro_e30]

I did swap a good one from one motor to the bad on the other motor and still showed nothing when testing that injector. I forgot to check the resistance in the injectors I can check that today but sure if that means anything

also as I previously mentioned all injectors were cleaned and showed working when I swapped to the working ports per YDS, I’m pretty confident it’s not the injector then

 

[Beachbummer]

Just to confirm, when you swapped ECU from one side to the other, the issue remained on the single injector that ECU was having difficulty clicking in its original engine?

If so, I think this definitely indicates the ECU is the issue..

Did you find any water or moisture when you opened the bigger box the ECU is in?

Can you confirm you boat year?

 

[Beachbummer]

The resistance is a good thing to check. There are theories that if an injector has high resistance that can cause damage to the ecu long term, but I can't recall if that has been proven, many of the ones damaged have a lot of moisture or water signs, indicating they were underwater for some time, but not all.

 

[euro_e30]

Just to confirm, when you swapped ECU from one side to the other, the issue remained on the single injector that ECU was having difficulty clicking in its original engine?

If so, I think this definitely indicates the ECU is the issue..

Did you find any water or moisture when you opened the bigger box the ECU is in?

Can you confirm you boat year?

2005 AR230 HO
I did not swap the ECUs yet , the only things I swapped was the the injectors from one to another to ensure the injectors were good , both motors were giving one injector with no signal.

Should I swap ECUs and see if the injector issues follow the ecu ?