AR 230 H.O no start when hot

[euro_e30]

The resistance is a good thing to check. There are theories that if an injector has high resistance that can cause damage to the ecu long term, but I can't recall if that has been proven, many of the ones damaged have a lot of moisture or water signs, indicating they were underwater for some time, but not all.

I’ll open up the ecu boxes to inspect

 

[euro_e30]

where do you guys get access to get remove the nuts for the ecu bolts ?

 

[Beachbummer]

Behind that box, through the clean out tray behind it.

Swapping ECU is the next best test.

 

[euro_e30]

just removed the ecu's out of the boxes, port side motor was super dry (i did notice the port ecu must have been fixed in the past it had the rectangular cut out in the top right with epoxy put back on it after repair. the starboard ecu looked original (had a little condensation / water in there but nothing that looked like it would be damaging

i swapped the ECU and tested the injectors
-starboard ecu replicated symptoms on the port motor.
-port ecu replicated symptoms on the starboard motor (but not injector 3 wasn't clicking, so not 1 and 3 were not clicking)

i then swapped the ecu's back to original and the port engine with its original ecu was not showing symptoms on 1 and 3 (weird 3 now started not clicking and was quiet)

check the resistance on the injectors and they all were 12.7-12.9 manual states for them to be 11.5-12.5 @68deg, its about 85-90 deg humid in NC today (im assuming this check is ok?)

based on all of this i would lean towards 2 bad ecu's? any thoughts on this one. anything else i should check / test for?

previously i mentioned that the port motor ran fine but now im seconding guessing if this issue has been going on for sometime now

 

[Beachbummer]

If the issue moves with the ecu it points to the ECU being the issue for sure. Folks have had mixed results with the repair. New has better track record.

What's the boat year?

 

[euro_e30]

If the issue moves with the ecu it points to the ECU being the issue for sure. Folks have had mixed results with the repair. New has better track record.

What's the boat year?

2005

 

[Beachbummer]

There is a design issue that causes all water ingress through the rear edge to fall right on top of the ECU. Not sure if that's your cause here, but it does not help.

 

[UnorthodoxCreations]

These folks can repair the ECUs if you want to go that route. Carmo Electronics, The place for parts or electronics for your Motorbike Quad Scooter Car or Jetski It takes a couple weeks and is a couple hundred per ECU but much cheaper than a new ECU. It does sound like one of yours has been repaired already. If you search my post history you'll see I've been through all this several times. Three times, I've had an ECU repaired. Once I bought a new one because I couldn't wait and miss having the boat for a family vacation. I believe they update the injector drives. That is what does bad and makes the injector stick open. Make sure they replace all 4 on each ECU. That is why I had to have one ECU done twice. Lucky they didn't charge much the second time. I would also recommend changing your oil on each engine as it's likely thinned out with gas in it. Some folks have pointed to water intrusion or bad injectors causing this but I never had either problem. I suspect it's just a part that guess bad with age. I now have a spare ECU that hopefully I'll never have to use.

 

[euro_e30]

These folks can repair the ECUs if you want to go that route. Carmo Electronics, The place for parts or electronics for your Motorbike Quad Scooter Car or Jetski It takes a couple weeks and is a couple hundred per ECU but much cheaper than a new ECU. It does sound like one of yours has been repaired already. If you search my post history you'll see I've been through all this several times. Three times, I've had an ECU repaired. Once I bought a new one because I couldn't wait and miss having the boat for a family vacation. I believe they update the injector drives. That is what does bad and makes the injector stick open. Make sure they replace all 4 on each ECU. That is why I had to have one ECU done twice. Lucky they didn't charge much the second time. I would also recommend changing your oil on each engine as it's likely thinned out with gas in it. Some folks have pointed to water intrusion or bad injectors causing this but I never had either problem. I suspect it's just a part that guess bad with age. I now have a spare ECU that hopefully I'll never have to use.

Thanks I’ve heard of them and debating if I have time to wait or not on the ecu , I will see what there lead times currently are but seems like they would be out a month or so

My plan was to do an oil change on both motors before I started them up

 

[euro_e30]

Thanks I’ve heard of them and debating if I have time to wait or not on the ecu , I will see what there lead times currently are but seems like they would be out a month or so

My plan was to do an oil change on both motors before I started them up

im still baffled that both ecu went at the same time, what does it mean when i run the injector test and the injector doesnt click ? I’m assuming that it is not giving fuel to the motor ? If that’s the case wouldn’t that mean that my engines were running in 3 cylinders and wouldn’t that cause the engine light to turn on or am I incorrect in saying so

 

[UnorthodoxCreations]

im still baffled that both ecu went at the same time, what does it mean when i run the injector test and the injector doesnt click ? I’m assuming that it is not giving fuel to the motor ? If that’s the case wouldn’t that mean that my engines were running in 3 cylinders and wouldn’t that cause the engine light to turn on or am I incorrect in saying so

I believe you'll hear the problematic injector click one time but it gets stuck open because the injector driver in the ECU is bad. It doesn't keep clicking like it should. I've had this happen 3 times. Never saw any engine lights on the dash. Essentially 3 cylinders are running fine and the other has too much fuel. That too much fuel causes poor performance and will get gas into the oil which could cause long term damage. It sucks. This is my 4th year with the boat. It had less than 150 hours on it when I bought it. Year 1, one ECU goes bad and I have it repaired. Year 2 other ECU goes bad. I bought a new one cause I was in a hurry. Year 3 the first ECU went bad on a different driver. I had that ECU and the one from year 2 repaired. So far so good on year 4. Used ECUs are almost impossible to find. Be very skeptical of scammers if you find one. Most people have them repaired or buy new. I think there is a jet ski ECU that is compatible but it will cause an engine light because there is a tilt sensor or something on jet skis that the boats don't have.

 

[euro_e30]

I believe you'll hear the problematic injector click one time but it gets stuck open because the injector driver in the ECU is bad. It doesn't keep clicking like it should. I've had this happen 3 times. Never saw any engine lights on the dash. Essentially 3 cylinders are running fine and the other has too much fuel. That too much fuel causes poor performance and will get gas into the oil which could cause long term damage. It sucks. This is my 4th year with the boat. It had less than 150 hours on it when I bought it. Year 1, one ECU goes bad and I have it repaired. Year 2 other ECU goes bad. I bought a new one cause I was in a hurry. Year 3 the first ECU went bad on a different driver. I had that ECU and the one from year 2 repaired. So far so good on year 4. Used ECUs are almost impossible to find. Be very skeptical of scammers if you find one. Most people have them repaired or buy new. I think there is a jet ski ECU that is compatible but it will cause an engine light because there is a tilt sensor or something on jet skis that the boats don't have.

makes sense , does it matter when I tested the injectors with the YDS the fuel tail was disconnected does it need to be pressurized to give an accurate reading or that doesn’t matter ?

 

[UnorthodoxCreations]

makes sense , does it matter when I tested the injectors with the YDS the fuel tail was disconnected does it need to be pressurized to give an accurate reading or that doesn’t matter ?

I don't think it matters