2017 Yamaha AR240; Yamaha Fuel Pump Replacement

[smmaymon5]

Hi, this is my first post, and I am new to this forum and new owner of a 2017 Yamaha AR240. When I first purchased the boat, shortly afterwards we noticed the port engine was having a harder time starting. It has never had a problem turning over, but it would not start. The last time we went out, we barely got it to start, and now it will not. Brand new batteries. When it was starting and running, there were no issues at all, would run great just like the other engine would. After thinking through it all, I had concluded it was a bad valve in the fuel line or fuel pump (seems to be that the valves are in fuel pump on these boats based on my research) because it runs fine when we get it to start, so likely not fuel pump itself not working. Also, I used an YDS type tool and did a fuel pump test. Once the test was done (which I assume activated the pump for a few seconds), then the boat started right up with no problems. So, my conclusion was that it has to be the valve and as it sits over time (more than a few hours), then the fuel bleeds back down the line. It started the rest of the day on the lake fine, as it only sat for 2-3 hours before we started it again. 8 Hours or more time then it will not start as if fuel is not getting to the engine. Has anyone had this problem before? I looked into replacing the fuel pump with:

https://www.partzilla.com/catalog-product/collection/quantum/7E9A55294148ADED5759E04432A2EE2E53D3090B?ref=3116d29e955bd5339ee64d5fac4e264ca4591a74&use_fitment=1&fitment=68466&model_name=SAT1800+AR240+HO

But, then realized after removing the complete fuel pump, that that pump is inside this:

https://www.partzilla.com/product/yamaha/6AP-13907-02-00?ref=c2ced4c2a35833578315c74440bb89051092e7c7

which is the complete unit with pump inside. I read mixed reviews on attempting to disassemble it to put the replacement pump in ($90 for just pump vs $1000 for complete unit).

Also, is there anyway it is something else completely?

I just don't want to break something or be out $1000 or more if it's not the issue. Ideally if it is the issue, I can break apart the unit without damaging it and use the replacement pump only that is $90.

Thank you,
Scott

 

[Neutron]

Hi, this is my first post, and I am new to this forum and new owner of a 2017 Yamaha AR240. When I first purchased the boat, shortly afterwards we noticed the port engine was having a harder time starting. It has never had a problem turning over, but it would not start. The last time we went out, we barely got it to start, and now it will not. Brand new batteries. When it was starting and running, there were no issues at all, would run great just like the other engine would. After thinking through it all, I had concluded it was a bad valve in the fuel line or fuel pump (seems to be that the valves are in fuel pump on these boats based on my research) because it runs fine when we get it to start, so likely not fuel pump itself not working. Also, I used an YDS type tool and did a fuel pump test. Once the test was done (which I assume activated the pump for a few seconds), then the boat started right up with no problems. So, my conclusion was that it has to be the valve and as it sits over time (more than a few hours), then the fuel bleeds back down the line. It started the rest of the day on the lake fine, as it only sat for 2-3 hours before we started it again. 8 Hours or more time then it will not start as if fuel is not getting to the engine. Has anyone had this problem before? I looked into replacing the fuel pump with:

https://www.partzilla.com/catalog-product/collection/quantum/7E9A55294148ADED5759E04432A2EE2E53D3090B?ref=3116d29e955bd5339ee64d5fac4e264ca4591a74&use_fitment=1&fitment=68466&model_name=SAT1800+AR240+HO

But, then realized after removing the complete fuel pump, that that pump is inside this:

https://www.partzilla.com/product/yamaha/6AP-13907-02-00?ref=c2ced4c2a35833578315c74440bb89051092e7c7

which is the complete unit with pump inside. I read mixed reviews on attempting to disassemble it to put the replacement pump in ($90 for just pump vs $1000 for complete unit).

Also, is there anyway it is something else completely?

I just don't want to break something or be out $1000 or more if it's not the issue. Ideally if it is the issue, I can break apart the unit without damaging it and use the replacement pump only that is $90.

Thank you,
Scott

You should really swap the pumps and make sure it moves to the other engine before you condem the pump assembly. I would replace the whole assembly not just the pump.
If your theory is correct cycling the key a few times on that engine should prime the line like your yds did