CrankyGypsy
Jetboaters Captain
- Messages
- 352
- Reaction score
- 297
- Points
- 202
- Location
- Tampa, FL 33615
- Boat Make
- SeaDoo
- Year
- 2008
- Boat Model
- Challenger
- Boat Length
- 18
(referencing a 2005 AR230HO)
what you need to do two engines:
- 10w40 (amount depends on how much you want to take out. the max you will need is 9 qts)
- 2 oil filters (i use Mobile 1 M1-110)
- 2 crush washers (no longer available from Yamaha - "M8 Plug Washer" ID: 8mm - OD: 15mm)
- vac pump (ex: Pela Extractor) or modified shop vac* and hoses
- engine flush adapter with water hose
- oil filter wrench
- funnel
- gallon milk jug
- 12mm socket with extension and wrench
- torque wrench (set to 13 ft-lbs) a smaller, in-lbs will get into the tighter port side
- paper towels
* took my shop vac, pulled the hose off, cut about 3 ft of old garden hose at the male end, put it into the vac adapter and used duct tape to seal it:
i recommend doing the starboard motor first since it leaves you more room to practice for the tighter port engine. attach the flush adpater, start the motor, turn the water on, and let it run for 6-8 mins. turn off the water and then turn off the engine.
OIL COOLER: the garden hose does a great job getting the large cooler area (about 2.5 qts). to get another quart, you'll need a smaller hose. i placed a straight coat hanger inside the hose to make aiming it easier then taped a gear oil tip to it. insert the hose down into the cooler and use a flashlight to guide it through the quarter-sized opening. then butt the gear oil tip to the end of the garden hose to get oil out of the pump area. once "emptied," i personally start the engine again for 8-10 seconds (i think you could also do this by cycling the motor with the lanyard pulled). this cycles more oil to where the smaller hose can get to it for removing 3.5 qts out of the top.
with the smaller hose, i was able to get to the screen. i managed to pick up a large piece of crud here in March 2017. my best guess it is red Loctite:
OIL FILTER: take the milk jug and cut the bottom off of it. make it so it is about .75" to 1" deep. place this under the filter. remove the filter and catch the oil in the jug bottom. on the port side, i wedged a towel under the case to stabilize the jug bottom. i used the small vac hose to pull any oil left in the filter area:
DRAIN: you can now go a step further to get the rest out of it by using the drain bolt. the bolt is #3 in the following diagram and it requires a 12mm socket. it is on the stern-side, at the bottom of the motor and has a brass crush washer. it is fairly obvious relative to the other possibilities and very easy to find with a mirror:
wedge the jug bottom underneath the drain bolt and place the vac hose so it can prevent overflow. now turn the bolt out with the socket and extension. it is torqued to only 13 ft-lbs, so it comes out very easily. note the plastic, black coupler shroud in the next pic - i realigned the powertrain early 2015 and never put them back on. i like the improved access:
IMPORTANT: make sure the old crush washer comes off. i've had it stick to the engine quite a few times and had to use my fingernail to get it to let go. other times it has been stuck to the drain bolt.
mirror showing the drain (updated with more recent pic. also note the shroud is gone):
there's not going to be much left unless you opted not to cycle the pump for 8-10 secs. but have the vac ready to prevent overflow. you'll want to vac the jug bottom out before you try to get it out of the engine bay. throughout this whole method, i maybe spilled a couple drops. the drain is going to flow and then drip for a while. once you're satisfied, clean the drain hole with a paper towel and install the drain bolt with a new crush washer. you will be able to use a torque wrench on the starboard side, but not the port (unless using a smaller in-lbs model). again, it's only 13 ft-lbs (note: the manual also has this listed as 14 ft-lbs, depending on the page), so need to crank on it if you don't have a torque wrench that fits.
REFILL: with the new filter installed, it's time to replace what you took out. i use an old Mobil 1 5-gallon jug with the quart markers to gauge what i removed. when in doubt, put in less. the engine will be fine being a little under full, but risks damage if overfilled. if you include the drain bolt step, you can get nearly all of it out. capacity is 4.5 qts, so my strategy is to replace about 4 qts and run it a few mins to warm it back up then see where i stand. i try for about 85% to the full mark - then i'll top it off on the next outing with the boat leveled in the water.
OIL LEVEL: obviously, you want to get the level somewhere between the lower and upper marks on the dipstick. the consensus on the forum seems to be to aim closer for the lower mark on the dipstick if the engine is cold -OR- aim for the upper mark if the engine is warmed to operating temperatures.
what you need to do two engines:
- 10w40 (amount depends on how much you want to take out. the max you will need is 9 qts)
- 2 oil filters (i use Mobile 1 M1-110)
- 2 crush washers (no longer available from Yamaha - "M8 Plug Washer" ID: 8mm - OD: 15mm)
- vac pump (ex: Pela Extractor) or modified shop vac* and hoses
- engine flush adapter with water hose
- oil filter wrench
- funnel
- gallon milk jug
- 12mm socket with extension and wrench
- torque wrench (set to 13 ft-lbs) a smaller, in-lbs will get into the tighter port side
- paper towels
* took my shop vac, pulled the hose off, cut about 3 ft of old garden hose at the male end, put it into the vac adapter and used duct tape to seal it:
i recommend doing the starboard motor first since it leaves you more room to practice for the tighter port engine. attach the flush adpater, start the motor, turn the water on, and let it run for 6-8 mins. turn off the water and then turn off the engine.
OIL COOLER: the garden hose does a great job getting the large cooler area (about 2.5 qts). to get another quart, you'll need a smaller hose. i placed a straight coat hanger inside the hose to make aiming it easier then taped a gear oil tip to it. insert the hose down into the cooler and use a flashlight to guide it through the quarter-sized opening. then butt the gear oil tip to the end of the garden hose to get oil out of the pump area. once "emptied," i personally start the engine again for 8-10 seconds (i think you could also do this by cycling the motor with the lanyard pulled). this cycles more oil to where the smaller hose can get to it for removing 3.5 qts out of the top.
with the smaller hose, i was able to get to the screen. i managed to pick up a large piece of crud here in March 2017. my best guess it is red Loctite:
OIL FILTER: take the milk jug and cut the bottom off of it. make it so it is about .75" to 1" deep. place this under the filter. remove the filter and catch the oil in the jug bottom. on the port side, i wedged a towel under the case to stabilize the jug bottom. i used the small vac hose to pull any oil left in the filter area:
DRAIN: you can now go a step further to get the rest out of it by using the drain bolt. the bolt is #3 in the following diagram and it requires a 12mm socket. it is on the stern-side, at the bottom of the motor and has a brass crush washer. it is fairly obvious relative to the other possibilities and very easy to find with a mirror:
wedge the jug bottom underneath the drain bolt and place the vac hose so it can prevent overflow. now turn the bolt out with the socket and extension. it is torqued to only 13 ft-lbs, so it comes out very easily. note the plastic, black coupler shroud in the next pic - i realigned the powertrain early 2015 and never put them back on. i like the improved access:
IMPORTANT: make sure the old crush washer comes off. i've had it stick to the engine quite a few times and had to use my fingernail to get it to let go. other times it has been stuck to the drain bolt.
mirror showing the drain (updated with more recent pic. also note the shroud is gone):
there's not going to be much left unless you opted not to cycle the pump for 8-10 secs. but have the vac ready to prevent overflow. you'll want to vac the jug bottom out before you try to get it out of the engine bay. throughout this whole method, i maybe spilled a couple drops. the drain is going to flow and then drip for a while. once you're satisfied, clean the drain hole with a paper towel and install the drain bolt with a new crush washer. you will be able to use a torque wrench on the starboard side, but not the port (unless using a smaller in-lbs model). again, it's only 13 ft-lbs (note: the manual also has this listed as 14 ft-lbs, depending on the page), so need to crank on it if you don't have a torque wrench that fits.
REFILL: with the new filter installed, it's time to replace what you took out. i use an old Mobil 1 5-gallon jug with the quart markers to gauge what i removed. when in doubt, put in less. the engine will be fine being a little under full, but risks damage if overfilled. if you include the drain bolt step, you can get nearly all of it out. capacity is 4.5 qts, so my strategy is to replace about 4 qts and run it a few mins to warm it back up then see where i stand. i try for about 85% to the full mark - then i'll top it off on the next outing with the boat leveled in the water.
OIL LEVEL: obviously, you want to get the level somewhere between the lower and upper marks on the dipstick. the consensus on the forum seems to be to aim closer for the lower mark on the dipstick if the engine is cold -OR- aim for the upper mark if the engine is warmed to operating temperatures.
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