Oil Change on MR-1 (How to perform a Complete Drain)

[Speedling]

Did sucking the oil out with shop vac make a big mess of it?

 

[Kevin C]

Using your shop vac to pump out the oil is ingenius!!!!! Thanks so much for the tip. You saved me such heartache and headache. It works fantastic, saved me money too! You da best!

 

[Joe Hellaby]

So I was just reading through this today, what do you do with the used oil in the shop vac? There's a video on youtube where a guy uses a shop vac into a bucket, I thought that was a cool idea (

).
Seems like a mess / environmental type issue?
They sell those oil pumps on amazon and in walmart, I think I've seen them as cheap as like $10

 

[Mugbug25]

(referencing a 2005 AR230HO)

what you need to do two engines:
- 10w40 (amount depends on how much you want to take out. the max you will need is 9 qts)
- 2 oil filters (i use Mobile 1 M1-110)
- 2 crush washers (no longer available from Yamaha - "M8 Plug Washer" ID: 8mm - OD: 15mm)
- vac pump (ex: Pela Extractor) or modified shop vac* and hoses
- engine flush adapter with water hose
- oil filter wrench
- funnel
- gallon milk jug
- 12mm socket with extension and wrench
- torque wrench (set to 13 ft-lbs) a smaller, in-lbs will get into the tighter port side
- paper towels

* took my shop vac, pulled the hose off, cut about 3 ft of old garden hose at the male end, put it into the vac adapter and used duct tape to seal it:

View attachment 13306

i recommend doing the starboard motor first since it leaves you more room to practice for the tighter port engine. attach the flush adpater, start the motor, turn the water on, and let it run for 6-8 mins. turn off the water and then turn off the engine.

OIL COOLER: the garden hose does a great job getting the large cooler area (about 2.5 qts). to get another quart, you'll need a smaller hose. i placed a straight coat hanger inside the hose to make aiming it easier then taped a gear oil tip to it. insert the hose down into the cooler and use a flashlight to guide it through the quarter-sized opening. then butt the gear oil tip to the end of the garden hose to get oil out of the pump area. once "emptied," i personally start the engine again for 8-10 seconds (i think you could also do this by cycling the motor with the lanyard pulled). this cycles more oil to where the smaller hose can get to it for removing 3.5 qts out of the top.

View attachment 13307

with the smaller hose, i was able to get to the screen. i managed to pick up a large piece of crud here in March 2017. my best guess it is red Loctite:

View attachment 53097

OIL FILTER: take the milk jug and cut the bottom off of it. make it so it is about .75" to 1" deep. place this under the filter. remove the filter and catch the oil in the jug bottom. on the port side, i wedged a towel under the case to stabilize the jug bottom. i used the small vac hose to pull any oil left in the filter area:

View attachment 13312

DRAIN: you can now go a step further to get the rest out of it by using the drain bolt. the bolt is #3 in the following diagram and it requires a 12mm socket. it is on the stern-side, at the bottom of the motor and has a brass crush washer. it is fairly obvious relative to the other possibilities and very easy to find with a mirror:

View attachment 13305

wedge the jug bottom underneath the drain bolt and place the vac hose so it can prevent overflow. now turn the bolt out with the socket and extension. it is torqued to only 13 ft-lbs, so it comes out very easily. note the plastic, black coupler shroud in the next pic - i realigned the powertrain early 2015 and never put them back on. i like the improved access:

View attachment 13308
View attachment 13309
View attachment 13310

IMPORTANT: make sure the old crush washer comes off. i've had it stick to the engine quite a few times and had to use my fingernail to get it to let go. other times it has been stuck to the drain bolt.

mirror showing the drain (updated with more recent pic. also note the shroud is gone):

View attachment 53085

there's not going to be much left unless you opted not to cycle the pump for 8-10 secs. but have the vac ready to prevent overflow. you'll want to vac the jug bottom out before you try to get it out of the engine bay. throughout this whole method, i maybe spilled a couple drops. the drain is going to flow and then drip for a while. once you're satisfied, clean the drain hole with a paper towel and install the drain bolt with a new crush washer. you will be able to use a torque wrench on the starboard side, but not the port (unless using a smaller in-lbs model). again, it's only 13 ft-lbs (note: the manual also has this listed as 14 ft-lbs, depending on the page), so need to crank on it if you don't have a torque wrench that fits.

REFILL: with the new filter installed, it's time to replace what you took out. i use an old Mobil 1 5-gallon jug with the quart markers to gauge what i removed. when in doubt, put in less. the engine will be fine being a little under full, but risks damage if overfilled. if you include the drain bolt step, you can get nearly all of it out. capacity is 4.5 qts, so my strategy is to replace about 4 qts and run it a few mins to warm it back up then see where i stand. i try for about 85% to the full mark - then i'll top it off on the next outing with the boat leveled in the water.

OIL LEVEL: obviously, you want to get the level somewhere between the lower and upper marks on the dipstick. the consensus on the forum seems to be to aim closer for the lower mark on the dipstick if the engine is cold -OR- aim for the upper mark if the engine is warmed to operating temperatures.

(referencing a 2005 AR230HO)

what you need to do two engines:
- 10w40 (amount depends on how much you want to take out. the max you will need is 9 qts)
- 2 oil filters (i use Mobile 1 M1-110)
- 2 crush washers (no longer available from Yamaha - "M8 Plug Washer" ID: 8mm - OD: 15mm)
- vac pump (ex: Pela Extractor) or modified shop vac* and hoses
- engine flush adapter with water hose
- oil filter wrench
- funnel
- gallon milk jug
- 12mm socket with extension and wrench
- torque wrench (set to 13 ft-lbs) a smaller, in-lbs will get into the tighter port side
- paper towels

* took my shop vac, pulled the hose off, cut about 3 ft of old garden hose at the male end, put it into the vac adapter and used duct tape to seal it:

View attachment 13306

i recommend doing the starboard motor first since it leaves you more room to practice for the tighter port engine. attach the flush adpater, start the motor, turn the water on, and let it run for 6-8 mins. turn off the water and then turn off the engine.

OIL COOLER: the garden hose does a great job getting the large cooler area (about 2.5 qts). to get another quart, you'll need a smaller hose. i placed a straight coat hanger inside the hose to make aiming it easier then taped a gear oil tip to it. insert the hose down into the cooler and use a flashlight to guide it through the quarter-sized opening. then butt the gear oil tip to the end of the garden hose to get oil out of the pump area. once "emptied," i personally start the engine again for 8-10 seconds (i think you could also do this by cycling the motor with the lanyard pulled). this cycles more oil to where the smaller hose can get to it for removing 3.5 qts out of the top.

View attachment 13307

with the smaller hose, i was able to get to the screen. i managed to pick up a large piece of crud here in March 2017. my best guess it is red Loctite:

View attachment 53097

OIL FILTER: take the milk jug and cut the bottom off of it. make it so it is about .75" to 1" deep. place this under the filter. remove the filter and catch the oil in the jug bottom. on the port side, i wedged a towel under the case to stabilize the jug bottom. i used the small vac hose to pull any oil left in the filter area:

View attachment 13312

DRAIN: you can now go a step further to get the rest out of it by using the drain bolt. the bolt is #3 in the following diagram and it requires a 12mm socket. it is on the stern-side, at the bottom of the motor and has a brass crush washer. it is fairly obvious relative to the other possibilities and very easy to find with a mirror:

View attachment 13305

wedge the jug bottom underneath the drain bolt and place the vac hose so it can prevent overflow. now turn the bolt out with the socket and extension. it is torqued to only 13 ft-lbs, so it comes out very easily. note the plastic, black coupler shroud in the next pic - i realigned the powertrain early 2015 and never put them back on. i like the improved access:

View attachment 13308
View attachment 13309
View attachment 13310

IMPORTANT: make sure the old crush washer comes off. i've had it stick to the engine quite a few times and had to use my fingernail to get it to let go. other times it has been stuck to the drain bolt.

mirror showing the drain (updated with more recent pic. also note the shroud is gone):

View attachment 53085

there's not going to be much left unless you opted not to cycle the pump for 8-10 secs. but have the vac ready to prevent overflow. you'll want to vac the jug bottom out before you try to get it out of the engine bay. throughout this whole method, i maybe spilled a couple drops. the drain is going to flow and then drip for a while. once you're satisfied, clean the drain hole with a paper towel and install the drain bolt with a new crush washer. you will be able to use a torque wrench on the starboard side, but not the port (unless using a smaller in-lbs model). again, it's only 13 ft-lbs (note: the manual also has this listed as 14 ft-lbs, depending on the page), so need to crank on it if you don't have a torque wrench that fits.

REFILL: with the new filter installed, it's time to replace what you took out. i use an old Mobil 1 5-gallon jug with the quart markers to gauge what i removed. when in doubt, put in less. the engine will be fine being a little under full, but risks damage if overfilled. if you include the drain bolt step, you can get nearly all of it out. capacity is 4.5 qts, so my strategy is to replace about 4 qts and run it a few mins to warm it back up then see where i stand. i try for about 85% to the full mark - then i'll top it off on the next outing with the boat leveled in the water.

OIL LEVEL: obviously, you want to get the level somewhere between the lower and upper marks on the dipstick. the consensus on the forum seems to be to aim closer for the lower mark on the dipstick if the engine is cold -OR- aim for the upper mark if the engine is warmed to operating temperatures.

Great write up. I also had water in my oil and had to use your information that you provided, thanks.
I'm in the process of designing a remote oil port up on top of the motor where you can gwt at it easier. It will be a hose that runs from the port that you talked about a the other end will be located at a much better place to access. Do you think there would be much interest in a product like this in the forum?

 

[Scottintexas]

Great write up. I also had water in my oil and had to use your information that you provided, thanks.
I'm in the process of designing a remote oil port up on top of the motor where you can gwt at it easier. It will be a hose that runs from the port that you talked about a the other end will be located at a much better place to access. Do you think there would be much interest in a product like this in the forum?

I think a lot of us would be interested, the $150. price x2 that Riva wanted just seemed like to much for most of us to justify,
Welcome to the group!

 

[Mugbug25]

I think a lot of us would be interested, the $150. price x2 that Riva wanted just seemed like to much for most of us to justify,
Welcome to the group!

I will keep everyone informed then as to my progress. I will try to focus on keeping the cost reasonable also! Some of the components are pretty pricy, so the price wont be what I would consider cheap, but they should be under the $150. x 2 price.

 

[Mugbug25]

20170612_175415

• Mugbug25
• Jun 13, 2017

20170612_175348

• Mugbug25
• Jun 13, 2017

A couple pictures of the bracket and the end of the remote relocation hose. I should be done by the end of summer with a finished product for sale. Still unsure about price, but will let people know as soon as I know. What would be the best way to advertise a kit for sale? Happy boating

 

[Bruce]

What would be the best way to advertise a kit for sale?

Posting it here would be a good start and reach the largest group of Yamaha Boat Owners.

I looks like you are using hydraulic hoses. You may be able to reduce costs by ordering them from surpluscenter.com. I know that for my tractor their hoses are around 1/5th of the price of having hoses made locally.

 

[Scottintexas]

if it's just to cover your costs and your just trying to help others out or willing to share your idea then I would think here or the classifieds would be a good place to post it,

if this is a business and your making money then the vendor forum would be the place to post it,

 

[Mugbug25]

You may be able to reduce costs by ordering them from surpluscenter.com.

I looked on this site, and you are correct. The hose from surplus.com is about the 1/3 the price of the hose I purchased. This is great, I can pass the savings along to the next guy!

 

[Mugbug25]

if it's just to cover your costs and your just trying to help others out or willing to share your idea then I would think here or the classifieds would be a good place to post it,

if this is a business and your making money then the vendor forum would be the place to post it,

If I can make a few bucks for my trouble I will, but if it gets to costly to produce I will just pass the idea on. I might just do a write up on the components one might buy and build it yourself. Time will tell. Thanks for the interest. I hope it will help someone out one day!

 

[Bruce]

@Mugbug25, is this as simple as an adapter screwed into the engine, the hose attached to the adapter then the mount and quick disconnect? Of course you would need a quick disconnect to attach to your pump as well.

I wonder if there is room to install the adapter and quick disconnect directly to the engine? The hose seems like the most likely point of failure. It is under minimal pressure so heat and abrasion would be the risk factors. It would be less convenient to connect to the quick disconnect at the back of the engine but it would otherwise have similar benefits.

 

[Mugbug25]

is this as simple as an adapter screwed into the engine, the hose attached to the adapter then the mount and quick disconnect? Of course you would need a quick disconnect to attach to your pump as well.

I wonder if there is room to install the adapter and quick disconnect directly to the engine? The hose seems like the most likely point of failure. It is under minimal pressure so heat and abrasion would be the risk factors. It would be less convenient to connect to the quick disconnect at the back of the engine but it would otherwise have similar benefits.

The drain plug is a M8, and that is pretty small. a standard metric bolt like a drain plug is pretty strong. When you change from a metric bolt to a fitting you lose some strength, and a little bit of strength is what you need to seal with a crush washer. the inside diameter of the hole on the fitting needs to be big enough to get oil through, but not weaken the fitting so much that you can not crush the washer. I'm looking into o-ring seal type fittings, so I wont have to tighten it so tight. You probably could put the fitting directly on the motor, but it still will be inconvenient to get to. Not only that, but I don't think the hose is that vulnerable to abrasion or heat in this application. Hydraulic hose seems to be a good fit in this application. I'm thinking of mounting a bracket for the end of the hose to the same point as the engine hoist ring on the upper oil reservoir using the same bolts that it uses.

In the end I may just provide a parts list and let board members build their own. I might be able to provide some stainless steel brackets if someone does not have the means of making them.

 

[scokill]

I'm just speaking for myself, but this is solving a problem that doesn't exist for me but others may find piece of mind getting as much oil out of the engine as possible. I probably would have less piece of mind thinking that all of my oil might leak out if I didn't install correctly or because of some failure, but that's just me

 

[Mugbug25]

I'm just speaking for myself, but this is solving a problem that doesn't exist for me but others may find piece of mind getting as much oil out of the engine as possible. I probably would have less piece of mind thinking that all of my oil might leak out if I didn't install correctly or because of some failure, but that's just me

I'm totally with you on this. That being said you probably have never had water mix with your engine oil. When this happened to me, and I did a complete flush on the one engine I noticed a huge difference in the oil filthiness between the two motors. The one that had no water in it I only did the partial change and it was much dirtier than the motor that had water in the oil and got the complete flush. When I get done with the design I will need to be totally sure that the system will be bullet proof before I will ever sale a kit for this modification. If I have any doubt at all, I will not sale a single kit. I will run it on my personal boat for some period of time to prove the design is good. It definitely will not be for everyone and I'm ok with that. I guess I'm just a bit anal about this sort of thing.

 

[scokill]

I'm totally with you on this. That being said you probably have never had water mix with your engine oil. When this happened to me, and I did a complete flush on the one engine I noticed a huge difference in the oil filthiness between the two motors. The one that had no water in it I only did the partial change and it was much dirtier than the motor that had water in the oil and got the complete flush. When I get done with the design I will need to be totally sure that the system will be bullet proof before I will ever sale a kit for this modification. If I have any doubt at all, I will not sale a single kit. I will run it on my personal boat for some period of time to prove the design is good. It definitely will not be for everyone and I'm ok with that. I guess I'm just a bit anal about this sort of thing.

I guess if you had water in your oil hopefully that would be a one time occurrence and you could "manually" remove the "plug" and get everything. The engines were designed to have the oil changed in the prescribed manner, so filthy may be bad looking but not bad. Certainly at the highest level clean is better than filthy but in all likelihood will not increase/decrease the odds of catastrophic failure either way. I get that there is an urge to tinker and make things better....it manifest itself in different ways for all of us!

 

[Jgorm]

Great post! This helped a lot, but was still a bit tricky. If you use a shop vac, rig up a 5 gallon bucket with a lid as a catch can. I bought the hand vacuum pump thing and it's way easier and cleaner than the vac.
I wouldn't do this for regular maintenance, is a pita. I had water contaminated oil and got about 2qts out. Used tinfoil as a catch bin and vacuumed out of that. Didn't spill a drop. I ended up taking a long bolt out first. Remember it's the bolt right next to the other bolt. You can feel it easier than seeing it. I think the picture of the socket was on the wrong bolt, but I'd in that area.

 

[DUSTOFF]

I'm in the middle of the oil chance procedure and I got nowhere damn near 4.5 quarts out of the right engine. I sucked oil from the top, then removed the filter and drained (cranking the motor over to get more out) then finally removed the drain plug. Half of the oil made it onto the dog piss pads I was using so I don't know exactly how much I took out. The suction ball doesn't even have markings so I wouldn't know unless I poured it into an empty jug anyways. I am guessing no more than 2 or 2.5 quarts total. Is it even possible to run these motors without overheating with only 2.5 quarts of oil???

 

[Scottintexas]

if your only sucking from the cooler and the filter your probably only going to get 2-3 qts, that's normal,
be sure to replace whatever quantity you took out, if your unsure only fill it to touch the dipstick or the Low mark at the most, that's enough to be safe and check it again on the water after proper warm up for how much to add,

A couple pictures of the bracket and the end of the remote relocation hose. I should be done by the end of summer with a finished product for sale. Still unsure about price, but will let people know as soon as I know. What would be the best way to advertise a kit for sale? Happy boating

@Mugbug25 - did you ever finish this project, I'm really interested even if you just give us a detailed parts list/instructions (although I'd like to buy two completed lines from you)



.

 

[DUSTOFF]

Scott, I removed the drain plug as well.