192 Heat Soak After IC swap

[haknslash]

Ok so I took my boat out yesterday in the low 90's with high humidity. Boat runs 7500 RPM indicated which is about right given the conditions I was in. My top speed stayed the same all day at 48-49 mph gauge indicated. RPM would vary mayb +/- 50 RPM throughout the day and test pulls which is normal to fluctuate some but speed remained the same. I felt the pissers after each "pull" and good bit of use and IC pisser is always cooler than engine and never more than lukewarm. What I did find interesting though is how inaccurate the gauge is to the digital RPM gauge if you go into the "more options". Mine was reading a good bit off by 100 RPM than what I was seeing on the physical needle RPM gauge. I rarely am in the "more options" menu anyways but I just found that a little interesting but not surprising lol. Moral of my story is my boat speeds have always been consistent after the SVHO intercooler swap while RPMs may fluctuate through the day based on conditions. I stopped looking at my RPM gauge since the swap lol.

 

[haknslash]

Yea running 5 mins top speed on my lake is kind of brutal lol. Wife certainly doesn't like it so it's just 'for the boys' moments. Even then I rarely hold the throttle pinned for that long. Just too much bouncing for my taste in my waters, especially if the current is flowing good up river.

 

[Jetswu87]

Ok so I took my boat out yesterday in the low 90's with high humidity. Boat runs 7500 RPM indicated which is about right given the conditions I was in. My top speed stayed the same all day at 48-49 mph gauge indicated. RPM would vary mayb +/- 50 RPM throughout the day and test pulls which is normal to fluctuate some but speed remained the same. I felt the pissers after each "pull" and good bit of use and IC pisser is always cooler than engine and never more than lukewarm. What I did find interesting though is how inaccurate the gauge is to the digital RPM gauge if you go into the "more options". Mine was reading a good bit off by 100 RPM than what I was seeing on the physical needle RPM gauge. I rarely am in the "more options" menu anyways but I just found that a little interesting but not surprising lol. Moral of my story is my boat speeds have always been consistent after the SVHO intercooler swap while RPMs may fluctuate through the day based on conditions. I stopped looking at my RPM gauge since the swap lol.

It's funny you say that, I go into more options and the digital read out whenever I'm trying to pay attention. I'd be more app to believe the digi readout to be more accurate, but no telling.

Most of my boating is in the rivers here and tidal water, whether the tide is coming in or going out will effect my top end depending on direction of course.

Now with year 3 of the boat, I don't even really care about the top speed anymore. I spend more time at 30mph than anything else combined, I like when I do nail it it hits 44-45 pretty quickly....I don't like watching the gas gauge move while there though lol.

I have days wondering if the 190 was a better buy for the added range, but being able to cruise at 5700 rpm at 30mph with 5-6 people sounds better than it pegged to do that.

 

[haknslash]

Agree! These days I rarely care about top speed and usually cruise at 25-30 mph. Wife likes it that way and it's just more a pleasure to take in the sights rather than be bouncing off the top of chop lol. I like knowing the performance is there should I need or want to goose it . I guess that's why I won't care if I upgrade to a wake boat and it's top speed is mid to upper 30's lol.

 

[JHall]

Yea running 5 mins top speed on my lake is kind of brutal lol. Wife certainly doesn't like it so it's just 'for the boys' moments. Even then I rarely hold the throttle pinned for that long. Just too much bouncing for my taste in my waters, especially if the current is flowing good up river.

We are either idle or full throttle lol. Guess I just carry over from my bass boat. When I’m in it, I’m either on the trolling motor or wide open heading somewhere. In the Yamaha, the kids always want me to go fast. Our lake is pretty calm, even on a busy day. It’s never uncomfortable or too rough to run wide open. For us at least. Again, maybe used to bass boat where some chop can make for a really rough ride.

 

[haknslash]

I grew up flying down the river on bass boats trimmed on the edge . My daughter loves to go fast.

Wife on the other hand ....yea I get 'the look' . I'll never forget the first time I showed her how a jet boat like ours can whip around lol. That was a long day...

 

[JHall]

I grew up flying down the river on bass boats trimmed on the edge . My daughter loves to go fast.

Wife on the other hand ....yea I get 'the look'

Ha.

I haven’t had a chance to check the pisser temp yet. I’m hoping to do that tomorrow. We are camping at the lake but it’s been so hot and wife has had to go in to work so we’ve just been lazy

 

[JHall]

Changed plugs. They didn't look bad, but for $24, can't hurt. I have not been able to check the temp of the pissser at WOT yet, because I haven't had anyone to drive the boat while I check. I'm hoping to do that this weekend. I can tell you that after running hard, then going through a no wake zone for about 100 yards, shutting off, and checking under the hood, the body of the IC was pretty hot, and the pisser water wasn't scalding hot, but noticeably warmer than the lake temp. Someone had made mention of boring out their strainer to get more flow. Is that a reasonable idea? If so, any pics of how it's done? I have looked and cant find anything.

 

[Midnight2V]

https://rivaracing.com/i-17284654-riva-pump-water-strainer-yamaha-1-8l-ho-sho.html

Here is the high flow strainer from Riva. It includes the cover with a 1/2" cooling line fitting, and is $90.

https://rivaracing.com/i-17283572-riva-thru-hull-connectors-1-2-waterlines.html

For another $26 dollars you get the thru-hull fitting. Home Depot sells everything else you need including the cooler line and material for sealing the thru-hull properly.

http://www.4-tecperformance.com/ind...ucts_id=5967&zenid=6m3meu86idc87p2equn2pbssh4

Works sells the strainer as a standalone for $70.

Even if you are not ready, or you don't want to run the dedicated line, you can use the strainer with the stock cover plate and and stock fasteners. Riva may be willing to sell the strainer on its own, similar to Worx. The strainer itself will give a decent flow boost to all cooled components, not just to the intercooler. I tried running just the strainer alone initially (no other mods on my boat at the time). In a completely heat soaked condition, with water temps over 90º and air over 100º, I picked up 4-5mph going from 31/32mph to 36 on the original SHO intercooler. I did these tests 10 minutes apart as that is how long it takes to install the strainer standing in 4 feet of water. 4 hex bolts that are 12mm (I think) are all that hold it on along with two O-rings, one for each side of the strainer plate.

 

[CQQL]

Any one used fizzle strainer?

 

[Midnight2V]

I didn't see an image of the unit, but from the description, it is an inline filter/strainer unit, not a pump strainer. The description says it is seven inches tall and that would have the strainer either sticking way out from the tunnel where it would do no good, or sticking into the thrust flow path which would entirely screw up the flow throughout the pump. If it is an inline strainer, it is for debris protection, and will not enhance flow.

The pump strainer window in the jet pump is only so big, that means there is only so much surface area to draw cooling water through a filter. The high flow strainer works by reducing the surface area of the strainer and allowing more flow with a lower pressure drop across the strainer.
The stock Yamaha unit is a staggered hole row design, which does provides superior filtration, but has significantly lower flow to cooled components. The two basic pump strainer designs of Worx and Riva both use a single direction, straight rake style strainer. They differ in that the strainer rakes either run horizontal in Worx, or vertical in Riva. I'm don't know if one design is more advantageous than the other.

One significant difference I do see is that the Riva unit uses a radiused strainer surface and the edges are radiused as well. When installed into the jet pump, it maintains a smooth transition from the tunnel face to the strainer face along all edges, and the face of the strainer conforms to the circular pump dimensions as well. This minimizes the impact on thrust flow and maximizes surface area contact with the tunnel water flow. I have the Riva unit myself and can confirm this. The Worx unit, which I have not held in my hand, appears to have a flat strainer face in the image. If this image is an accurate representation of the product, that means that the face will either stick into the flow path at the center of the strainer, or it will be recessed from the tunnel edges. If true, it will not conform to the tunnel shape and will be a disturbance in flow because the transition is not smooth. Maybe that is by design, but my thinking is that is an flaw in the engineering of that unit.

 

[CQQL]

any tutorial or write up on how to install dedicated line? where to plug in? and where to direct the old line that was connected to IC

 

[Midnight2V]

Nothing to it, lots of us have posted pics in the SX 192 mods thread started by @SamCF, please check it out...but here are the basics. This method requires you give up the wet storage locker drain, but it's no big deal, your bilge pump can handle it with no problem. You also give up using the factory flushing of the intercooler. This is also no big deal. I separately backflush my intercooler from the pisser.

Things you need:
1. One modified stock jet pump strainer cover or an aftermarket jet pump strainer cover plate. I strongly recommend aftermarket for reason already mentioned.
2. One 1/2" 90º threaded fitting to barbed (typically 1/4" or 1/8" NPT)
3. One 2 foot section of 1/2" hose rated for 100psi
4. One 1/2" thru-hull fitting
5. One 10 foot 1/"2 hose
6. Five worm gear hose clamps of the correct size, I used .75" to 1.5"
7. One 1/2" barbed block-off
8. A six ounce tube of marine grade sealant.
9. Small roll of PTFE plumber's tape.
10. Sealing hardware, I bought a gasket kit with many types.

Things to do:
1. Remove your stock jet pump strainer cover if you are re-using the stock plate you will need to grind the cover flat, and drill/tap it for the barb. All that work alone makes it worth the aftermarket cover in my opinion.
2. Install the 90º barb fitting into the chosen jet pump strainer cover. Use plumber's tape on the threads to seal it.
3. Re-install the jet pump strainer cover. Ensure you have oriented the cover so you can properly access the barb fitting when you attach the hose. You can't take it off and re-tape it without removing the cover, there isn't enough clearance.
4. Remove the wet storage locker. This will require you to remove the Phillips screws, most of which will be stripped already. You also need to loosen the coupler clamp on the cleanout port where it ties in to the wet storage locker, and it is also glued to the wet storage locker.
5. Remove the thru-hull wet storage locker drain hose from the thru-hull fitting.
6. Remove the drain thru-hull fitting from the hull.
7. Mount the thru-hull cooling line fitting to the hull. Apply liberal doses of YouTube and marine sealant on both sides of the transom. Seriously, watch a video on Youtube to get some pointers. It may require a trip to the local hardware store to find what you need.
8. Let the silicone set up for at least a couple of hours. Drink a beer or two because the hard work is already done, and its probably hot.
9. Attach the 2 foot hose to the barb fittings on the jet pump strainer and the thru-hull fitting, trim the hose as necessary. Secure with the first two worm gear clamps.
10. Run the 10 foot hose from the intercooler inlet through the starboard midwall penetration, and back to the thru-hull fitting.
11. Attach the thru-hull end of the hose to the thru-hull with the third worm gear clamp.
12. Re-install the wet storage locker floor pan with the screws and re-clamp the silicone coupler with the worm gear clamp.
13. Disconnect the original cooling line from the intercooler inlet.
14. Install the blank barb fitting into the original hose and clamp using the fourth worm gear clamp. Leave it where it is, it's as useful to your boat, as your belly button is to you.
15. Connect your new dedicated line to the intercooler inlet and clamp using the fifth worm gear clamp, trim as necessary.

You are done.

Optional things to do that I highly recommend in no particular order:

1. Install the hi-flow jet pump strainer while the strainer cover is off. It comes with the Riva plate and costs $35 more than just a plate cover with fitting.
2. Intercooler upgrade from the original SHO unit.
3. If you are using an aftermarket intercooler, rig it for 3/4 inch connections and use a 3/4" line instead. This allows you to switch out your intercooler pisser for a 3/4" unit, there are tons of options including your freshly removed wet storage drain. Alternatively, just swap the thru-hulls overboard lines for your bilge (3/4") and intercooler (1/2"). The reason for this is that the water heats up and as it passes through the intercooler it takes a larger volume, even though water mass has not changed. A bigger outlet line will prevent additional flow loss due to water expansion. That's why the SVHO uses two outlets for the one inlet.

 

[CQQL]

Thank you for the write up.

 

[Midnight2V]

No problem.

 

[Midnight2V]

https://rivaracing.com/series-109112-riva-yamaha-1-8l-engine-cooling-upgrade-kits.html#!stroke=4 Stroke

Here is the link for basically all the stuff needed beside the sealant and gaskets. It's all in one set, but you probably need to buy your own hoses. Their kit hoses are cut to length for jet skis, but they might cut hoses especially for boats if you call and ask. It also includes the hardware to drastically improve the oil cooler without the problems the svho unit has.

 

[SamCF]

Any increase in oil cooler efficiency on a stock 192 will result in gas in oil.

I fought the problem last summer, and had to return everything on the cooling system to stock. Now I just have the intercooler with dedicated line, and enlarged the holes on the factory strainer.

 

[Midnight2V]

Yeah, that's why I hadn't installed it. But I had planned to install it if I added more boost.

 

[zachyam]

Any increase in oil cooler efficiency on a stock 192 will result in gas in oil.

I fought the problem last summer, and had to return everything on the cooling system to stock. Now I just have the intercooler with dedicated line, and enlarged the holes on the factory strainer.

@SamCF I have noticed you don't post on here much any more but some of your posts are legendary to me. I switched to the svho intercooler with 2 dedicated outlets on my 13 sx192. I am still experiencing some heatsoak and trying to fix it before the wife is dead set on getting rid of it. By enlarging the strainer holes do you mean you just drilled a few out on the stock strainer? Or do I need to pay riva 90 dollars for a new strainer. The dedicated line has me puzzled of where I am running the taped strainer line to. I appreciate all your work and experience that you have shared with the rest of us through your posts.

 

[SamCF]

The stock strainer plate can be drilled out. You can be as aggressive as you like, but its a trade off of less filtering for more water flow. Im always in clean water so it's no problem. If I were in dirty or shallow water I would run the stock strainer.

Tapping the strainer plate and running that line straight to your intercooler will improve its effectiveness.