1996 Regal Rush XP 120 jet boat - Broken Control/Shift Cable

[Roger Ski Gapinski]

The shift control cable broke on my 1996 Regal Rush xp120 jet boat! Since the MV-2 control is obsolete I had to replace it with a CH2300P control box. I’m wondering if the new cc21310 control cable will work. I have not received the new CH2300P control yet.
Anyone have any experience? The reason I purchased a new control box is the Interlock Insert was missing half the teeth making it very unsafe to drive. Parts are no longer available for the MV-2 according to the manufacturer Morse - Sea Star Solutions.
Any help is greatly appreciated. I can supply photos when I get on my laptop.
Thanks,
Ski
PS this was posted to iBoats around July 28, 2018. I was unaware of jetboaters.net at the time. Since then, I purchased the xtreme 33c 10ft control cable, the CH2300P control box, fished the cable through the hull and noticed the thru hull connector fitting was cracked. I thought everything was going well until I realized the connector has to be replaced otherwise I will have a big leak into the bilge. Does anyone know if the engine has to be pulled, or the impeller intake grate, or the ride plate have to be removed in order to insert a new connector from the inside? Does the Drive Oil have to be drained before attempting to remove the grate or plate?
I sent a note the Regal Boats product VP and he replied that he forwarded my inquiry to customer service since the boat is obsolete. They also recommended that I take the boat to an authorized Regal Rush dealer for service. It may come to that but the jet boat is 22 years old and I think the repair will be more than the boat is worth. It is worth it to me, however, to try everything I can to get this boat back in the water.

 

[Roger Ski Gapinski]

I Here are some photos! Any help is appreciated!
Thanks,
Ski

 

[genwrx]

Might not be a huge help, but for those broken plastic bits it may be easier to have someone 3d print them versus finding replacements. Good luck!

 

[Roger Ski Gapinski]

Hi, do you mean the interlock Insert? The metal disc behind the throttle lever with missing teeth!

 

[Roger Ski Gapinski]

After a few days of spraying PB to all the screws I was only able to loosen 4 on the impeller grate. The screws to the impeller grate (6) are Phillips. I then tried to loosen the Torx screws (10) on the ride plate. I was able to turn all of them but decided to spray again with PB and leave overnight. I’m hoping I will be able to see the thru hull connector fitting inside and be able to reach it. If not I’ll go back to the impeller grate if that will give me access.
if these things don’t work, and if I don’t learn how it is supposed to be done, then I will try to rig a threaded pipe, with large enough inside diameter to allow the cable to pass through, and secure at each end to prevent leaks. We’ll see! Very frustrating at this point, but still hope!
Regards,
Ski
PS found the illustration on the net. Clearly shows how control/shift cable goes through pump.

 

[Roger Ski Gapinski]

Was contacted by Regal Boats customer service yesterday! They suggested that ride plate needs to come off to get to thru hull connector fitting. Will start doing that today and take photos. I want to take it very slow to not break screws. Will probably spray the seal thoroughly with Dawn!! Keep you posted!
Ski

 

[Roger Ski Gapinski]

9 out of 10 screws out! Last one, at rear of plate above gate turns very, very slow! Sprayed PB twice and will again let sit overnight. Taking lots of precautions NOT to break screw(s).
Try again tomorrow and hopefully get ride plate off and take more photos.
ski

 

[Roger Ski Gapinski]

Thanks ALL!! It was hard to wait overnight Friday while the PB soaked into the last screw at the rear of the ride plate. But yesterday I was able to remove it after spraying PC compressed air, which I use to blow off my computers. It got the screw very cold which helped it contract a little. I then placed a 3 ft 2x2 between the ride plate and the pump housing and pried the plate very gently. It came right off!!! I could now see the inside of the thru hull hole.
I now need to clean the hole area, purchase some parts and put the whole thing back together. I will continue to add as I get to completion. Thanks for your help!
Regards,
Ski

 

[Roger Ski Gapinski]

Have successfully installed the new thru hull connector, 10" hose and clamps, dome cap cable gland to seal cable, and the new xtreme ccx63310 control/shift cable. Now I am in the process of installing the new CH2300P control box. More to come.
Thanks,
Ski

 

[Roger Ski Gapinski]

New issue - color codes of wiring to neutral switch in control box!
Old Morse MV-2 has two wires to switch from boat - both are yellow/red. They are connected to the black and red wires on the switch. The new CH2300P control box’s neutral switch has two wires that are black and blue. So which wire goes where? Anyone know?
Thanks,
Ski

 

[Roger Ski Gapinski]

Supporting photos for last post.

 

[Beachbummer]

The first one appears to be a normally open switch. Hook up the cables to any two wires that show continuity when the switch is activated/pushed/engaged, and breaks continuity in it's non pushed/inactive state.

Hope that helps

Edit: it seems I lied. Switch maybe normally closed
https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/panasonic-electric-works/ABV1625619/ABV1625619-ND/644605


Since you have old switch determine it's real behavior with multimeter, the pick the wires that copy the behavior.

 

[Roger Ski Gapinski]

Thanks Beachbummer! I will try what you suggested tomorrow. From the manuals...

Kind of confused! Illustration from Shop Manual indicates a yellow/red wire that has the neutral switch in it, meaning it does not matter how I attach the black and blue wires of the new neutral switch on the ch2300p control. It is all on one wire - yellow/red.


The illustration from the Service Manual shows a yellow/red wire from the ignition switch to one side of the neutral switch. The other wire is yellow going to the solenoid from the other side of the neutral switch. Two different wires? Any help is greatly appreciated.
Thanks,
Ski

 

[RedBarron55]

The polarity of the switch wires makes no difference.
The switch should interrupt the power to the starter when the throttle is not in the neutral detent.
Check the wire to the solenoid with an ohmmeter to determine that it is the proper one.
Many of the old switches have been jumpered out so that the engine will turnover with the throttle advanced but there is the danger of the boat jumping forward or backwards when it starts.
The throttle over ride button does not work on my boat, but the switch was jumpered or removed by a previous owner and UI have not repaired it yet
Great post by the way. Keep it up!

 

[Roger Ski Gapinski]

Thanks RedBarron55! I just finished connecting the wires to the neutral switch and tried to attach my existing throttle cable to the new CH2300P control. Unfortunately it is not long enough to give 5/32” space after the pivot. The instructions says to remove cable from throttle connection. I need to investigate how it is attached. Looks like it is not easy to get to. Any suggestions? My jet boat is on the boat house lift on our lake.
Thanks,
Ski

 

[Roger Ski Gapinski]

Edited above to show 5/32" instead of 5/16" - the throttle cable is attached. Will work on control/shift cable tomorrow. Photos coming.
Thanks,
Ski

 

[Roger Ski Gapinski]

 

[RedBarron55]

I can't help much with the new binnicle, but the geometry is geometry.
My problem was in getting from idle to WOT on the throttle with the stock unit.
The important thing is the throw should equal the original system to go from full reverse to full forward.
I spent a lot of time confused working on the throttle movement.

 

[Roger Ski Gapinski]

It’s been a few days because when I tried to find the correct eye terminal for the xtreme ccx63310 control cable I was told by the manufacturer that it is NOT the right cable!!! Plus once connected to the clamp on the nozzle it was too long!!
The cc21310 is the right cable!!! It comes with the eye terminal already built in!
So I took the xtreme cable out, returned it, and purchased the cc21310 control/shift cable. Should be here by Saturday.
While waiting I marine tec epoxied the slight cracks in the gelcoat in the areas the ride plate goes. After it dried I used coarse 60 grit and fine 220 grit to smooth out! I also enlarged the opening in the bulkhead to accept the new CH2300P control box and installed it.
Now just waiting on the cable! More to come!
PS I’m not too disappointed about the cable! It is better to have it right than to Jerry-rig it!

 

[Roger Ski Gapinski]