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1996 sugar sand heat 2 stroke oil?

this is a force 120 hp 1996 by the way.
 
Hey so compression on the motor Are

1-130
2-150
3-150
4-125

What are your guys thoughts on this?
I wouldn’t get too worked up about those numbers. Double check the oil lines. Maybe rebuild the carbs if it’s been sitting a while. Buy some ring free and run it like you stole it.
 
If it hasn't been run recently you might want to pre mix the first tank of fuel to make sure the oil injection is working properly.
If you pre mix at maybe 100:1 then it won't smoke too badly if the oil is being injected and keep from damaging the engine while it gets the oil flowing.
 
I have recently run it. I have however realized the oil level hasn’t changed is there a way to check the oil flow?
 
Operation of the Injection System
The oil injection system delivers an oil mixture, on engine demand, from 100 to 1 at idle to 50 to 1 at wide open throttle.
The oil reservoir holds 4.5 quarts of oil which will provide 4.5 hours of running time at wide open throttle.
A low oil warning horn will be activated when approximately 1/3 of oil remains in the reservoir. This will provide approximately one full gas tank of wide open throttle running.
The oil injection pump feeds oil into the fuel just before the fuel pump. The oil injection pump is driven by the crankshaft and is connected to the throttle linkage for metering the varied flow of oil per engine RPM. Oil Pump Description
There are two different pumps used on the Sport Jet product line. The lever can be used to identify which model the pump is calibrated for. The 90 HP is stamped with “90” on the pump lever. The 120 HP is stamped with “120” on the pump lever.
Oil Pump Output Specifications
The following table lists the oil pump output capacity in cc per three minutes engine running time. Lever Stamp “90” “120” Part Number 820658 819438
Volume @ Idle* 3.37 cc 10% 4.75 cc 10% Full Volume** 11.25 cc 10% 14.25 cc 10%
*1500 RPM w/ oil link rod attached = cc in 3 minutes **1500 RPM w/ oil link rod disconnected and pump arm rotated full clockwise and help against pump casting= cc in 3 minutes

Carburetor/Oil Pump Synchronization 1. Move towershaft to the Wide Open Throttle position. Inspect oil pump alignment mark with the oil pump lever. Adjust oil pump link rod to align with the last mark.
a - Oil Pump Lever b - Alignment Mark (At Wide Open Throttle)
a
b
2. Adjust oil pump link rod as required.
Bleeding Air from Oil Injection System
1. With engine not running, place s shop towel below the oil pump. Loosen bleed screw three to four turns and allow oil to flow from bleed hole until no air bubbles are present in inlet house. Torque bleed screw to 25 lb. in. (2.8 N·m). This procedure also allows the oil pump to fill with oil.
a
b
a - Outlet Hose b - Bleed Screw
2. Purge air from outlet hose by running engine at idle speed until no air bubbles are present in outlet hose.

https://www.scribd.com/document/127723284/Manual-Sport-Jet-90-120hp-Oil-Injection-System
 
You won’t really notice the oil level change much unless you run it for some time.

Make sure the oil lines are in good shape. You could disconnect the outlet hose at the oil pump and bump the starter a few times to make sure the pump is working. (Shut the fuel off and clamp hose 5 before the tee)

If you replace them I’d suggest getting semi transparent hoses. Be sure to bleed them.
1DEF342A-C81C-42F1-BB53-7F0286732943.gif
 
I will be doing this next time I work on it. (probably tomorrow morning) Thanks!
 
also I have been looking everywhere for a reasonably priced battery for this boat (currently running on a deep cycle battery) works but not enough cold crank for me to be comfortable. could someone post a link to a battery i could purchase. thanks!
 
If you google ‘mercury sportjet 120 service manual’ there are a lot of download sites claiming to have it. I didn’t see a complete copy available with a quick look. Though a lot of sites want you to register which I didn’t do.

Printed copies are on amazon and eBay.
 
...actually if you search “site:motoka.org sport jet 120” it looks like you can find most of the manual sections.

http://bfy.tw/Hege
 
So the engine starts great the first time putting in the water but then if I cut the engine it refuses to start up again any thoughts? It seems as if though when the engine is heated up it does not want to start.
 
No help, but I have a chainsaw that does the same thing. So I will be watching for ideas in case one might apply! Good luck!
 
when it’s hot it will crank but not fire?

Assuming it’s not operator error, ie you are flooding it. :)

Then I’d suspect a fuel tank vent or maybe or maybe a spark issue. Some components that are about to fail start showing symptoms when they are warm..

I’d start by opening the gas tank cap when it won’t start. And if that doesn’t work then get a spark tester and check for a good strong spark. Test it when it’s cold and hot to see if you see a difference.

And of course keep an eye out for corroded wires and bad connections. ecspically the grounds
 
Correct it will crank but not fire
 
So I just bought new spark plugs but want to check here to make sure they are the right ones first I got ngk bz7hs-10 if I gap them according to service manual will they be ok?
 
Also I’ve been working on it in the driveway and driving awhile to test. How can I run it in driveway without running it dry?
 
There is a picture of an adapter for driveway cooling
https://forums.iboats.com/forum/gen...ealer-flushing-adapter-for-a-mercury-sportjet
https://forums.iboats.com/forum/gen...port-jet-90-running-motor-with-flush-kit-help
You can buy an adapter at Lowe's to fit the flare fitting at the rear.
Be careful of the pressure as you can fill the cylinders with water.
I made an adapter with a pressure relief valve and gauge to be certain that there is water, but low pressure.
I had a big problem with getting water into the lower or all cylinders!
It turned out to be the wrong gasket in the base adapter for me.
The flush kit that attaches at the top of the engine is for flushing and the dealer kit (adapter at the outlet from the jet pump will cool the engine for running at low rpm on the driveway for testing.
The problem with not starting when hot could be worked on in the driveway.
If you have a temp gauge look at it for temp and stop the engine and then try restart.
A good spark tester will let you know if it is ignition or not.
They sell one that goes into the plug lead.
If you have a 1996 then engine might be an XR with CDM ignition and be more reliable than the older set up.
It is possible that the start enrichment valve is bad or has a wiring problem.
This valve in the newer engines uses the 20 or so AC volts from the stator to warm up a wax capsule and close the enrichment valve after the engine has warmed up.
Two yellow wires go from the stator to the valve. A quick check with an Ohm meter will let you know about continuity.
Sorry have not given much help, but I have been away from my computer and a good connection was not available.
 
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