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2004 SR230 engine won't start

tayl428

Active Member
Messages
5
Reaction score
0
Points
30
Boat Make
Yamaha
Year
2004
Boat Model
SR
Boat Length
23
Hey everyone, long time lurker, first time poster (lol). I've owned this 2004 SR230 for 2 years now without any problems. Total run time is estimated around 120 hrs total. I went to take it out of the marina for the winter, and the starboard engine won't start. It last ran about 6 weeks ago. It cranks (wo wo wo), it just won't start (vrrrooooomm). I jiggled the clip on safety harness a few times with no difference. I checked the clean-out in the back, and the switches appear fine. I lifted the rear seat to the engine after a few cranks, and was hit with a smell of fuel. Ugh.

Based on what I read and finding some threads about similar , sounds like the ECU is problematic in these and it may be keeping a valve open? Does anyone recommend getting the Yamaha diagnostic software to help diagnose? I haven't dug into it yet, haven't even checked oil quality for fuel or water, I've been waiting for this Florida cold spell to blow over.

TIA
 
Check the oil. Does it smell like gas? Is it thin? Compare it to the other engines oil.
 
My lanyard switch died causing the same issue you are reporting. It works by closing when the clip is not on...which means you can troubleshoot by unplugging the switch from the system. If it starts with the lanyard switch disconnected from the boat, that's the issue. The switch failed affecting a single engine only, so it can do that.
 
Glad to have you on board,

Where are you located ?

Having a YDS is good for general purposes even if it's not going to help you with this problem,

I'm more concerned with the fuel smell,

definitely smell check your oil, maybe even pull some and put it in a glass jar to see if it separates,

then I'd confirm lanyard switch is operating correctly as bummer suggested,

I'd also air it out and then try to start it again to identify if you have a bad fuel hose or fuel leak,




.
 
Check the oil. Does it smell like gas? Is it thin? Compare it to the other engines oil.
That's step one once this artic frost blows through (ok, it's only 48, but we have thin blood in FL).

My lanyard switch died causing the same issue you are reporting. It works by closing when the clip is not on...which means you can troubleshoot by unplugging the switch from the system. If it starts with the lanyard switch disconnected from the boat, that's the issue. The switch failed affecting a single engine only, so it can do that.
Interesting and odd! Thanks, I read something similar somewhere else as well. That should be an easy test, sounds like it's accessible behind a speaker grill IIRC ?

Glad to have you on board,
Where are you located ? Having a YDS is good for general purposes even if it's not going to help you with this problem, I'm more concerned with the fuel smell, definitely smell check your oil, maybe even pull some and put it in a glass jar to see if it separates,
then I'd confirm lanyard switch is operating correctly as bummer suggested, I'd also air it out and then try to start it again to identify if you have a bad fuel hose or fuel leak,
.
I'm in Destin FL. Yeah, I thought that the software wouldn't hurt to have anyway, so I'm going to look to confirm that my connector is still there under the coverplate in the rear storage locker and go ahead and get it on Ebay. I will smell check the oil as well. It's pretty dry back there as it is.
 
Last edited:
Finally warm enough to look at it today. Milky oil... No gas smell to it.
 
milky oil means water in the crank case,

normally this happens if you get towed or run on one engine faster than no wake speed causing cooling water to back flow into the engine, past the open valves and into the crankcase,

The other option is if you have a cracked head or manifold,

once we had a member with a cooling line that sprung a leak and just happened to blow water into the air intake,

Anything unusual happen lately that might give you indicators of either of these situations?

I suggest looking in the FAQ at the top of the page for how to do a complete oil drain, it's not easy but probably worth it in this instance, then you can try to figure out where the water came from,

keep us updated,



.
 
and there was a good pwc shop in destin/Pensacola that a member had great service from for rebuilding an engine, I can't remember the name at the moment though, you might be able to search for it,

.
 
Not sure if this is the one your talking about but jet Marine is in gulf breeze . I have used them for years Paul does great work . I had the same problem last year . Ended up I had a small hole in the head he replaced with a used one and it ran great
 
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