2004 sx230 overheating & milky cream in vent tube

[Brad_Ct]

@Brad_Ct Where does Part #32 (hose) bypass to?

Off hand I don’t remember

 

[Brad_Ct]

After looking at picture closet I already checked the bypass valve. It did have some buildup around the black plastic pressure control valve inside. I cleaned it up and put it back together the first time I pulled all the cleaning lines off. I read in a separate thread about the inner gasket and rubber coupling with the 2 hose clamp bands inside exhaust elbow boot and if it is deteriorated or leaking it could allow water to get into head. Is this true? These are pretty old and could be in better shape

Yes, there is a rubber coupler and under that is another o-ring type seal and if they have deteriorated water can migrate back into the engine. That is what I found was the problem with our boat getting water in the oil, I would not think that with your very low hours they would be a issue.

The white in the breather tube and oil cap is probably from condensation after sitting for a long period of time.

 

[WREKS]

@c_johnsonftw Have you been on the water with it yet?

 

[c_johnsonftw]

The white is stuff was in the hose going from valve cover to the oil reservoir ( the breather tube). It was completely full of what looked basically like mayonnaise and was backing up into the reservoir and around the cap. I’m assuming the salt away and vinegar and CLR I’ve run through it while flushing it has gotten in with the water to the oil and thickened it up to what I found.

 

[c_johnsonftw]

@c_johnsonftw Have you been on the water with it yet?

 

[c_johnsonftw]

I have not been on the water with it yet. I took it to boat ramp and ran it at idle thinking maybe not enough pressure through my hose

 

[c_johnsonftw]

When flushing I get water out of the rear pisser from starboard side which I believe is from engine. I do not get water out of front pisser but I’ve read that’s normal until higher rpms like 4-5k on the lake

 

[c_johnsonftw]

I was getting ready to take it to the lake today to run it and hit WOT hoping it would help push out whatever blockage there was but then upon the discovery of the mayonnaise in breather tube I aborted that plan thinking I have a more serious head gasket / head issue

 

[c_johnsonftw]

I did notice last week after flushing with salt away I would get some dribble out of front pisser and some light white drips and a foul odor with some steam. I assumed it was the salt away doing its job and knocking gunk out of cooling system

 

[WREKS]

The white is stuff was in the hose going from valve cover to the oil reservoir ( the breather tube). It was completely full of what looked basically like mayonnaise and was backing up into the reservoir and around the cap. I’m assuming the salt away and vinegar and CLR I’ve run through it while flushing it has gotten in with the water to the oil and thickened it up to what I found.

That mayo may be water mixed with oil. The oil cooler was overfilled. Oil on the dipstick should be between F and L on a cold engine. Filling more than that will force oil up the breather tube. You may want to change the oil before water testing it. With only 37 hours it seems unlikely that the head gasket has failed.

 

[c_johnsonftw]

When I am flushing I’m getting water out of all 3 spots by jet nozzle indicating I’m getting flow through cooling system. As well as some out of jet it’s self combined with water out of rear pisser and steam & air out of front pisser. I ran both engines and videos the water coming out and they appear to be very similar. Now originally when I flushed boat for the very first time when I got it sand started to diagnose I was getting ZERO water out of exhaust port next to jet drive. I took apart entire exhaust system and checked and cleaned everything and then I started getting water through that port

 

[c_johnsonftw]

That mayo may be water mixed with oil. The oil cooler was overfilled. Oil on the dipstick should be between F and L on a cold engine. Filling more than that will force oil up the breather tube. You may want to change the oil before water testing it. With only 37 hours it seems unlikely that the head gasket has failed.

 

[WREKS]

When I am flushing I’m getting water out of all 3 spots by jet nozzle indicating I’m getting flow through cooling system. As well as some out of jet it’s self combined with water out of rear pisser and steam & air out of front pisser. I ran both engines and videos the water coming out and they appear to be very similar. Now originally when I flushed boat for the very first time when I got it sand started to diagnose I was getting ZERO water out of exhaust port next to jet drive. I took apart entire exhaust system and checked and cleaned everything and then I started getting water through that port

That is exactly what should happen except for the steam out the front pilot.

 

[c_johnsonftw]

I would find that hard to believe as well. But with it getting hot during testing multiple times and being aluminum I didn’t want to rule it out.

I’m thinking I need to change oil before doing leak down test and make sure oil viscosity and level is good.

When I start it up it chatters for a few seconds but then smooths out. Part of that is the bearing the grease in it was hard. I cleaned it all out on both engines including the line up to the zerk fitting and it helped tremendously

 

[WREKS]

Harbor Freight has infra-red thermometer. Temps below manifolds near block could be telling. Over 200F not good, but system might flush out on water. Just do not want to run while it is overheating, but could run until it overheats.

 

[WREKS]

No, I am just curious where it routes to. Mine does not have a bypass valve.

 

[c_johnsonftw]

Harbor Freight has infra-red thermometer. Temps below manifolds near block could be telling. Over 200F not good, but system might flush out on water. Just do not want to run while it is overheating, but could run until it overheats.

 

[c_johnsonftw]

I have IR thermometer and have used it frequently during flushing. I’ve run it for a few min after temp light pops on but not for extended periods of time while chasing this rabbit down the hole

 

[WREKS]

Reading the block on the exhaust side below the manifolds is where temperatures can build up, quickly. Any spot heating above 200F signals clogged cylinder water jackets.

 

[c_johnsonftw]

Just updating. I did the tests ended up pulling the head to check the water jackets. Half the head and the block around cylinder 4 were completely blocked with sand / salt. It was packed in there like concrete