2005 SX230 will no start on ramp

[84rzv500r]

well two things... what is the compression on the cylinders? pull the pump and inspect. if the engine is running with a free wheeling pump and not without more throttle with load on the pump in water at idle would tell me that its very low on compression (more throttle = more power to overcome the load on the pump..) My experience is that no load RPM (i run mine at 1800 RPM idle) and idle in the water with load on the pumps is the same...

 

[kjr6306]

I would go that route if the engine didn't run fine once it's warmed up. Literally, once it's running in the water for a few minutes the engine will start fine. It also runs/starts fine all day long once it's warmed up......10,000 RPM and low to mid 40's MPH. It's either the load on the engine or somehow a temp sensor doesn't like the cold water.... As mentioned, during the day the RPM will just randomly go from 3000 RPM due to where the idle set screw is set at to get it started back down to about 1600 RPM. What can possibly cause the idle to randomly fluctuate 14-1500 rpm?

 

[84rzv500r]

so let me see if i understand
Crank no start when cold
bump idle set screw and it starts but runs rough? at what RPM?
as engine warms up engine returns to high Idle and starts well..?

leaky injector, bad plug, bad/weak coil, i've had all of these... did you ohm out the coils? fresh plugs? My bet is on a leaky injector or injectors, makes cold starting hard... also ecu can fail and hold injectors open... is the engine making oil? does the dip stick smell like fuel?

can you bump the throttle slightly on the offending engine during cold start rather than setting up the idle screw? or does your throttle not allow..
there is no closed loop mode in these engines that i am aware of so RPM only varies by fuel, air, spark, or load given a stationary throttle position...

clear the codes and repeat the in water cold start cycle check codes
you have done the TPS sensor calibration as per service manual spec?
cylinder drop test?
compression test?
MAP sensor in range ?
IAT sensor in range?
fuel pressure in range?
DC buss voltage?

debugging can be hard...

"Calculatus Eliminatus is the best friend you have got" - Dr Seuss

 

[kjr6306]

Thanks for hanging in there with me....lol. Here are the symptoms again:
Cold starts fine and idles fine on the trailer.
Shut off the engine, and drop it in the water.....no start.
Pop the engine cover and give the idle set screw a turn and the engine starts fine.
Reinstall the cover and the engine idles/runs fine all day. I can even stop for lunch and shut off the engine for a couple of hours and the engine starts just fine. Keep in mind that the engine is now idling at around 3000 RPM.
Occasionally out of the blue the engine will idle back down to 15-1600 RPM.
The throttle has the neutral safety switch so I can't bump the throttle up a little because it won't crank out of neutral. I've got the idle screw set just about right where I can get it to run without having to pop off the cover every time I put in but it's annoying having the engine idle at 3k for most of the day. Something is not right and my OCD makes me want it to work exactly right.

 

[84rzv500r]

Thanks for hanging in there with me....lol. Here are the symptoms again:
Cold starts fine and idles fine on the trailer.
Shut off the engine, and drop it in the water.....no start.
Pop the engine cover and give the idle set screw a turn and the engine starts fine.
Reinstall the cover and the engine idles/runs fine all day. I can even stop for lunch and shut off the engine for a couple of hours and the engine starts just fine. Keep in mind that the engine is now idling at around 3000 RPM.
Occasionally out of the blue the engine will idle back down to 15-1600 RPM.
The throttle has the neutral safety switch so I can bump the throttle up a little because it won't crank out of neutral. I've got the idle screw set just about right where I can get it to run without having to pop off the cover every time I put in but it's annoying having the engine idle at 3k for most of the day. Something is not right and my OCD makes me want it to work exactly right.

If you have set the TPS voltage according to the service manual and YDS says its OK its not a horrible job to swap the ECU's side to side and see if the problem follows the ECU. its a good time to inspect them for water incursion as well..

 

[dgfreeze]

Thanks for hanging in there with me....lol. Here are the symptoms again:
Cold starts fine and idles fine on the trailer.
Shut off the engine, and drop it in the water.....no start.
Pop the engine cover and give the idle set screw a turn and the engine starts fine.
Reinstall the cover and the engine idles/runs fine all day. I can even stop for lunch and shut off the engine for a couple of hours and the engine starts just fine. Keep in mind that the engine is now idling at around 3000 RPM.
Occasionally out of the blue the engine will idle back down to 15-1600 RPM.
The throttle has the neutral safety switch so I can't bump the throttle up a little because it won't crank out of neutral. I've got the idle screw set just about right where I can get it to run without having to pop off the cover every time I put in but it's annoying having the engine idle at 3k for most of the day. Something is not right and my OCD makes me want it to work exactly right.

I have an 06, and I've got a "free accelerator button" on my shifter. According to the Yamaha Owners manual, the 05's should also. I haven't verified, but I think that should allow you to rev the engine while trying to start it?? I haven't tried this, but it's worth a shot... Look at the link below, it's also continued on the next page.

YAMAHA LIT-18626-06-82

boats.yamaha-owners-manuals.com

 

[84rzv500r]

I have an 06, and I've got a "free accelerator button" on my shifter. According to the Yamaha Owners manual, the 05's should also. I haven't verified, but I think that should allow you to rev the engine while trying to start it?? I haven't tried this, but it's worth a shot... Look at the link below, it's also continued on the next page.

YAMAHA LIT-18626-06-82

boats.yamaha-owners-manuals.com

yeah I run the original AR210 three lever shifter with some mods... i run in really shallow water so I modified the shifter so that I can start the engines in forward to that i can idle in very shallow water 12" and not have the reverse gate kicking up sand or gunk.... that crap gets in engines...

 

[kjr6306]

Interesting. That would be very helpful. I am going to check to see if mine has this feature.

 

[kjr6306]

The buttons are confirmed on my throttles! This will probably fix my issue enough for me not to worry about it anymore. I should be able to dial back the idle screw to 1600 RPM while the boat sits on the trailer and then use the button to give the engine a little more gas until it gets warmed up. I did notice something odd to note when I just checked. The no wake red lights stay on after my key is turned off for about 30 seconds. Not sure if that is related to the issue I am having but the other engine does not do that....

Thanks for the tip on the throttle button!!!!

 

[dgfreeze]

Do the no wake lights only stay on with the problematic engine, or both engines?

 

[kjr6306]

Just the problematic engine. All 3 red lights stay on but are very dim. I probably haven't noticed this earlier as I probably couldn't see it in the sunlight. My boat was in the garage and it was pretty dark. The good engine they go off immediately when the key is turned off.

 

[dgfreeze]

Very dim….that’s interesting. I’m with the above recommendation to swap ECU’s and see if the problem follows the ECU. If you can get a friend to help, an ECU swap can be done in an hour or less. Not as difficult or daunting a task as it might seem.

 

[kjr6306]

I agree on the ECU swap now with the lights doing what they doin. I need to get into the boxes anyway to change out both starter relays so may as well kill 2 birds with 1 stone...

 

[dgfreeze]

I agree on the ECU swap now with the lights doing what they doin. I need to get into the boxes anyway to change out both starter relays so may as well kill 2 birds with 1 stone...

Lol, common issue. Did the port solenoid last year, and the starboard this year. And yeah, that would definitely be the time to swap them.