2008 Ar-210 starboard engine won’t start

[Setec_Fl]

I searched the forum and tried everything I could find but I’m hoping I missed something before I cave and take it to a mechanic. So I’m hoping someone has an idea I haven’t tried yet.
Boat ran great all week while scalloping in Steinhatchee. Got home and flushed both motors with no issues.
Pulled the boat today for a quick afternoon on the water. Both engines fired up when I checked them upon prepping.
Both engines fired up at the dock in the marina.
I backed away from the dock fine, but when I moved both throttles into forward, the starboard engine stalled.
I attempted to restart it and it sputtered and then died again.
I let it sit for a few minutes and tried again and could hear it trying to start but no luck.
I brought it home and have done the following.
Pulled the air filter and gave it a boost of starting fluid.
Boat has fresh gas with seafoam in it and port engine runs fine.
Pulled the plugs. 3 of the 4 plugs here black, so I replaced the plugs.
Swapped coils from port engine.
Pulled and reseated safety lanyard.
Checked rear hatch switch.
Pulled and tested all 4 injectors. They were all clean and full of fuel. Clicked when hit with 9v battery.
Ran the engine for a bit with plugs out in case of hydro lock.
Left plugs and injectors out for a good 30 mins in case flooded.
Reseated all parts and checked plugs on coils and injectors.

Engine turns over and will “run” as long as I have the key in start position but shortly after I let off the key, it dies.

Anything else I can try?

 

[itsdgm]

Sorry to hear you’re having issues.

Off the top of my head, Here’s a few easy things that you could try. I’d start with the ignition switch for sure because it sounds like it runs in the starting position and dies when releasing the key. Also, since it died after moving the throttles out of neutral, it’s possible that the neutral safety switches are somehow involved. If the computer doesn’t register the throttle position in neutral, it won’t fire up.

Attempt to start both engines after each step and see if problem switches to the other engine. Don’t forget to reverse each procedure after testing them individually.
1. Unplug both ignition switches and swap plugs (left to right)
2. Find the lanyard safety switch plugs and swap them next.
3. Swap cleanout hatch switches.
4. See if you can locate any wiring for the neutral safety switches behind the throttles and try swapping them too.

Anyway, hope this helps. Good luck with the repair. It’s got to be something easy to fix, just a pita to locate.

 

[Setec_Fl]

Sorry to hear you’re having issues.

Off the top of my head, Here’s a few easy things that you could try. I’d start with the ignition switch for sure because it sounds like it runs in the starting position and dies when releasing the key. Also, since it died after moving the throttles out of neutral, it’s possible that the neutral safety switches are somehow involved. If the computer doesn’t register the throttle position in neutral, it won’t fire up.

Attempt to start both engines after each step and see if problem switches to the other engine. Don’t forget to reverse each procedure after testing them individually.
1. Unplug both ignition switches and swap plugs (left to right)
2. Find the lanyard safety switch plugs and swap them next.
3. Swap cleanout hatch switches.
4. See if you can locate any wiring for the neutral safety switches behind the throttles and try swapping them too.

Anyway, hope this helps. Good luck with the repair. It’s got to be something easy to fix, just a pita to locate.

Thanks for the ideas.
When I say “runs” it’s turning over with some combustion but not enough to idle. So I’d be surprised if it was the ignition switch, but I can give it a shot.
The lanyard and hatch switch I’m sure it’s not. It won’t even turn over with those open.

 

[Daren and Heather]

Kind of sounds like a fuel pump to me. Pretty sure each engine has its own fuel pump. If so, you could swap the fuel pumps and see if the issue moves to the other engine before you go and buy a fuel pump.

 

[Daren and Heather]

Someone else on this forum once had a similar issue and just unseating and reseating the electrical connection to the fuel pump resolved the issue.

 

[Setec_Fl]

Kind of sounds like a fuel pump to me. Pretty sure each engine has its own fuel pump. If so, you could swap the fuel pumps and see if the issue moves to the other engine before you go and buy a fuel pump.

Isn’t the fuel pump for these inside the fuel tank?

 

[Daren and Heather]

I would venture a guess that the fuel pumps would be located and removed at the top of the fuel tank. You can access the fuel tank by removing that very large panel in the main cabin in front of the engine bay. Let me see if I can find my service manual and I’ll confirm.

 

[Nikokrzynowek]

I searched the forum and tried everything I could find but I’m hoping I missed something before I cave and take it to a mechanic. So I’m hoping someone has an idea I haven’t tried yet.
Boat ran great all week while scalloping in Steinhatchee. Got home and flushed both motors with no issues.
Pulled the boat today for a quick afternoon on the water. Both engines fired up when I checked them upon prepping.
Both engines fired up at the dock in the marina.
I backed away from the dock fine, but when I moved both throttles into forward, the starboard engine stalled.
I attempted to restart it and it sputtered and then died again.
I let it sit for a few minutes and tried again and could hear it trying to start but no luck.
I brought it home and have done the following.
Pulled the air filter and gave it a boost of starting fluid.
Boat has fresh gas with seafoam in it and port engine runs fine.
Pulled the plugs. 3 of the 4 plugs here black, so I replaced the plugs.
Swapped coils from port engine.
Pulled and reseated safety lanyard.
Checked rear hatch switch.
Pulled and tested all 4 injectors. They were all clean and full of fuel. Clicked when hit with 9v battery.
Ran the engine for a bit with plugs out in case of hydro lock.
Left plugs and injectors out for a good 30 mins in case flooded.
Reseated all parts and checked plugs on coils and injectors.

Engine turns over and will “run” as long as I have the key in start position but shortly after I let off the key, it dies.

Anything else I can try?

you said you pulled and tested the 4 injectors. How did you test them? Did you pull them from the intake and zip tie them to the fuel rail and crank the engine over to verify fuel was coming out of the injectors? It does sound like there is a fuel delivery issue going on. I would spray some starter fluid in the intake when cranking and see if the engine fires. Then you can verify if it is a fuel issue or not

 

[Setec_Fl]

you said you pulled and tested the 4 injectors. How did you test them? Did you pull them from the intake and zip tie them to the fuel rail and crank the engine over to verify fuel was coming out of the injectors? It does sound like there is a fuel delivery issue going on. I would spray some starter fluid in the intake when cranking and see if the engine fires. Then you can verify if it is a fuel issue or not

I did not test them attached to see if they each sprayed fuel. I will have to try that.
I tested them each with a 9v battery to make sure they all opened.

I did find this thread. AR210 won't start and rough idle ***UPDATE SOLUTION***

I have a compression kit arriving today and going to swap the fuel pumps / check the fuel filters.
But I’m going to try running it with starting fluid first. Just need to find a helper

Thanks for the suggestion.
And it appears I need to start fogging this engine regularly as it runs in salt water

 

[Nikokrzynowek]

If you’re getting fuel but no spark it could be a sensor issue. Fuel and spark could be compression related such as stuck valves etc. but for now I would stick to the basic. Make sure the engine is getting fuel and spark. From your initial post it sounds more or less fuel related. So that is where I would start

 

[Daren and Heather]

This is from the 2020 AR 210, but your boats fuel pumps should be relatively close.

 

[Setec_Fl]

If you’re getting fuel but no spark it could be a sensor issue. Fuel and spark could be compression related such as stuck valves etc. but for now I would stick to the basic. Make sure the engine is getting fuel and spark. From your initial post it sounds more or less fuel related. So that is where I would start

Correct me if I’m wrong on this approach.

Before I pull the deck cover, if I just pull the two bolts for the injector line. Remove the 4 injectors from the engine but not the fuel line and place a towel under them. Unplug the coils so there is no open spark and crank the engine, I should see spray from each injector.

If I don’t, then fuel issue and proceed to the pumps.

Bad idea?

 

[Nikokrzynowek]

Correct me if I’m wrong on this approach.

Before I pull the deck cover, if I just pull the two bolts for the injector line. Remove the 4 injectors from the engine but not the fuel line and place a towel under them. Unplug the coils so there is no open spark and crank the engine, I should see spray from each injector.

If I don’t, then fuel issue and proceed to the pumps.

Bad idea?

Take plugs out of engine, disconnect coils and take those away from engine as well. The last thing you need is a spark near this, so by removing everything and keeping it away from the engine the better. After that, you are correct remove the bolts from the fuel line and pull the injectors out of the intake. At this point you want to zip tie the injectors to the fuel rail. There is enough fuel pressure to shoot an injector out of the rail. Rather than using a rag, I would just take some water bottles and place the opening in the discharge area of the injectors. So 4 empty water bottles total. That will also show you if you have a dead injector or a bad ECM. I believe there is a few YouTube videos on just this for reference. This is common trouble shooting for a bad ECM with a stuck injector

 

[Setec_Fl]

Correct me if I’m wrong on this approach.

Before I pull the deck cover, if I just pull the two bolts for the injector line. Remove the 4 injectors from the engine but not the fuel line and place a towel under them. Unplug the coils so there is no open spark and crank the engine, I should see spray from each injector.

If I don’t, then fuel issue and proceed to the pumps.

Bad idea?

Or attach a ziplock bag around each one. Then I can see what comes out?

 

[Nikokrzynowek]

Or attach a ziplock bag around each one. Then I can see what comes out?

I would said containing the fuel would be better than having the fuel soak a rag in the engine compartment. Whatever you need to do to contain the fuel, a ziplock, or waterbottle, gas cans, soda can. Whatever it takes

 

[Daren and Heather]

Wonder if it's just faster and less messy to just swap the fuel pumps first? Just a thought, they just bolt in and lift right out. Idk.

 

[Setec_Fl]

Wonder if it's just faster and less messy to just swap the fuel pumps first? Just a thought, they just bolt in and lift right out. Idk.

Plus like 20 square head screws holding down the deck that haven’t been removed since 2008?

 

[Nikokrzynowek]

I removed my deck from my 07. Snapped a few of those stainless screws just to suck the tank clean of old fuel and check filters. The fastest and less messy method would be starter fluid down the intake when cranking. That will be the tell tale sign of a fuel delivery issue or not

 

[Daren and Heather]

Any luck?

 

[Setec_Fl]

Any luck?

Haven’t had a chance to mess with it yet. Going to work it Friday. I’ll post more then.