2010 AR240 Rehab

[sjbrush]

Picked up my first Yamaha jet boat a couple weeks ago. It's a 2010 AR240 with about 200hrs on the engines. I paid $10k. The guy I bought it from didn't use it much but unfortunately he let it sit outside. The weather has taken its toll on the boat and trailer hence cheap the price.

This forum has already been such a huge in the work I've done to the trailer that I figured I'd attempt to document my rehab. Both to share with others and to possible gain advice along the way. Big shout out to @Ronnie for helping me think through this purchase and for hooking me up with some parts and a boat cover. Thank you Ronnie!

The guy I bought the boat from lived on the water and never used the boat trailer. So when I first boat the boat I had to do a bunch of work to get it road ready before I could even go back and get the boat from him. I definitely under estimated how much work the trailer was going to be. I had to rebuild the surge brakes from front to back. The wheels studs were so rusted that I basically broke half of them trying to get the wheels off. I was able to rebuild the hubs and calipers, put in all new studs, pads, and new tires all around. The bunks were also shot so I replaced the wood, carpet, and hardware. I also replaced all the lights with LEDs and the wheel well side wall carpet and hardware.

Once I finished this I was able to pickup the boat and I now have it safely in my side yard. Here are some pictures from along the way. My next step is to figure out why one engine is not running right. I'll talk through that in my next post.

 

[jmargo]

Where are you located ? I was looking at that boat the same time Ronnie was but was scared off after seeing its condition. Before you run it too long you should pull the valve covers and check the cam chain links.

 

[marcham]

Great work so far .... it's always satisfying to see something brought back to proper running condition.

 

[sjbrush]

Where are you located ? I was looking at that boat the same time Ronnie was but was scared off after seeing its condition. Before you run it too long you should pull the valve covers and check the cam chain links.

Ok thank youI’ll definitely do that. The starboard motor was making a lot of noise and we couldn’t tell if it was the impeller being swollen, the coupling, the intermediate bearing, or something in the engine.

I don’t know much about these motors so I will take all the advice I can get. Thank you!

 

[sjbrush]

Ok thank youI’ll definitely do that. The starboard motor was making a lot of noise and we couldn’t tell if it was the impeller being swollen, the coupling, the intermediate bearing, or something in the engine.

I don’t know much about these motors so I will take all the advice I can get. Thank you!

I’m in San Ramon

 

[jmargo]

You're probably want to pull the pumps then and check them along with checking the grease and bearings under the cone. I'm up near Vacaville/Fairfield and could probably swing that way to help if needed to at least get started. I have the Yamaha diagnosis software to look up history.

 

[sjbrush]

When you say pumps do you mean the impeller and shaft? If so I did pull the starboard side and here is what it looks like. I wasn’t sure about the color and wear but was going to compare it to the other side.

Great to hear you are close by and thank you for offering to help! When I picked this boat up I figured there was a chance I would have to pull a motor but I’m still hoping I don’t have to. What kind of info does the Yamaha diagnosis software provide?

If I start the engine with the impeller removed, and it runs smooth, can I assume either the impeller is too tight (swollen housing) or the IB is bad?

 

[Ronnie]

I suggest that you first replace the spark plugs, along with the oil and oil filter as well as pull the air filters and see if the motors sound and perform better afterwards. Sometimes Just changing the spark plugs can makes a world of difference.

The impeller sits in the wear ring when the impeller is installed. If the ring swells to the point that it keeps the impeller from turning it’s a problem other wise the smaller the gap between the impeller and wear ring the better. Before I forget these boats make a lot of noise when started on the trailer so don’t be fooled into thinking something is wrong by all the metal on metal noise even when the engine is on a hose.

 

[Dave burke]

Impressive work on the trailer. Did you replace the drum brakes with discs?

 

[sjbrush]

Ok sounds good I’ll do that next. I have the kit here ready to install. This kit came with a manual oil pump and an SBT filter. The price was right so I got it but also ordered genuine Yamaha oil filters. I was surprised the difference in size and glad I went with the Yamaha.

 

[jmargo]

The software shows in what RPM ranges the boat was ran in along with any codes it has had and what hour it occurred. You should also remove the wear ring so you can put it all together and check the impeller to ring gap.

 

[sjbrush]

Impressive work on the trailer. Did you replace the drum brakes with discs?

Thanks, no it was disc all along. I had the rotors cut and I rebuilt the calipers. Bearings were good so I just repacked them. The surge actuator might have been salvageable but it looked so bad I replaced it. The real hassle was how they ran the brake line. It’s in the frame and the flex line that goes from the actuator to the hardline connects within the frame. It like that connected it out side the frame and then pulled in. Not great for servicing.

 

[sjbrush]

The software shows in what RPM ranges the boat was ran in along with any codes it has had and what hour it occurred. You should also remove the wear ring so you can put it all together and check the impeller to ring gap.

That’s great. I’ll see if I can get the wear ring off today and get it measured.

 

[jmargo]

Yep, Don't forget that little 10MM on it. I have the service manual for the boat too. Here is the wear ring to impeller specs.

 

[sjbrush]

I’m not sure if this is the proper method to measure the gap but I came up with about .2mm at the tightest location. Seems to spin ok. Do I need to tighten the impeller to the wear ring to get an accurate measurement?

 

[jmargo]

That is a little tight. Can you see any evidence of rubbing or high spots ? Maybe get in there with scotch brite and clean off any corrosion. You might want to pull the cone too and check that. Good idea to replace the seal and grease with new epnoc.

 

[sjbrush]

I don’t see any evidence of high points or wear. This epnoc is new to me. I’ll pull it apart and take a look. I’m sure someone has posted on how to lube it and replace the seal. I’ll do some research. Thank you!

 

[Ronnie]

Thanks, no it was disc all along. I had the rotors cut and I rebuilt the calipers. Bearings were good so I just repacked them. The surge actuator might have been salvageable but it looked so bad I replaced it. The real hassle was how they ran the brake line. It’s in the frame and the flex line that goes from the actuator to the hardline connects within the frame. It like that connected it out side the frame and then pulled in. Not great for servicing.

I remember having to replace the safety cable that runs into the underside of the tongue, it took me a few hours to replace that $3 part because of the way the brake line is connected to the surge brake assembly. I ended up detaching the front part of the folding tongue and the rotating it with the assembly inside to dethread the brake line from the assembly.

 

[Ronnie]

You can get the rubber o rings/seals at yamaha sports plaza or partzilla for around $10 each. I think the impellers and clearance are fine. Just make sure the bearings in the pump are ok/don’t allow much play of the shaft, add new grease after you get the seals / o rings.

 

[sjbrush]

I remember having to replace the safety cable that runs into the underside of the tongue, it took me a few hours to replace that $3 part because of the way the brake line is connected to the surge brake assembly. I ended up detaching the front part of the folding tongue and the rotating it with the assembly inside to dethread the brake line from the assembly.

That’s a good idea I hadn’t thought of. What I did wasn’t as smart but seemed to work. To get it off I just used pliers and a wrench to twist it off. I figured if it broke I would replace the whole line. It didn’t so when I went to out it back together I twisted the line as much as I could in the opposite direction and then let it untwist itself as it screwed into the actuator. Time will tell in that method.