2014 SX190 Build Thread - Off Grid - [PIC HEAVY]

[2kwik4u]

@JBehrens Do you have any pics of the cockpit speakers?

Looks like you added 7.7in speakers, and 6.5in speakers. Which ones did you put where?

Also, looks like the amp you used is a 600watt/6 channel. Are you running (4) channels to the cockpit speakers, and the other two bridged to the subwoofer?

I'm trying to narrow down my stereo upgrade purchase list, and you're links are super helpful. Thanks!

 

[JBehrens]

@JBehrens Do you have any pics of the cockpit speakers?

Looks like you added 7.7in speakers, and 6.5in speakers. Which ones did you put where?

Also, looks like the amp you used is a 600watt/6 channel. Are you running (4) channels to the cockpit speakers, and the other two bridged to the subwoofer?

I'm trying to narrow down my stereo upgrade purchase list, and you're links are super helpful. Thanks!

The 7.7's fit in the cockpit but I was not able to get 7.7's in the bow, the stock holes will only accommodate a 6.5 in the bow. You could upsize but the speakers would likely be too deep. In the cockpit it's easy to upsize the 6.5 holes to fit the 7.7's and they do sound better than 6.5's. (I can get in the boat tonight and get more pictures if you need).

The amp is running channels 1 thru 4 to each of the cockpit speakers with 5&6 bridged for the sub. I intend to add a dedicated sub amp down the road (probably a MX500/1) and use ch. 5&6 for tower speakers. This amp setup works really well so far but I think the sub would sound a little better with a dedicated amp and reinforcement of the fiberglass around the helm wall if you go the IB route.

 

[2kwik4u]

@JBehrens That's great info. Thanks for the pics and explanation.

I think I'm going to move to a slightly different sub/amp combo from your setup.
JL 700/5 amp (refurbished): JL Audio Refurbished XD700/5v2: 5 Ch. Class D System Amplifier 700 W
JL M10IB-SG-TB: JL Audio M10IB5-SG-TB: 10-inch (250 mm) Marine Subwoofer Driver Titanium Sport Grilles 4 Ω

The amp is a little less cash than the one you picked with similar specs. I've had good luck with Creative and refurbished equiment, so I'm pretty confident in that aspect......The sub change is only because the one you spec'd is out of stock currently.

I have a door cut in the wall where you have your sub located.


I was thinking about adding the sub to the wall where your right foot is near while driving. There is space there to fit the 10in opening, and enough depth to sink the sub all the way in there. Here's the remote, and where I'm considering adding the sub. Was going to put a stainless steel "ring" behind the wall for the sub to screw into to reinforce that area. Thoughts?


Did you run the sub wires around the bow of the boat? I had to run my remote wire around the bow to keep it hidden, and it was a giant PIA to get in there.

 

[JBehrens]

@JBehrens That's great info. Thanks for the pics and explanation.

I think I'm going to move to a slightly different sub/amp combo from your setup.
JL 700/5 amp (refurbished): JL Audio Refurbished XD700/5v2: 5 Ch. Class D System Amplifier 700 W
JL M10IB-SG-TB: JL Audio M10IB5-SG-TB: 10-inch (250 mm) Marine Subwoofer Driver Titanium Sport Grilles 4 Ω

The amp is a little less cash than the one you picked with similar specs. I've had good luck with Creative and refurbished equiment, so I'm pretty confident in that aspect......The sub change is only because the one you spec'd is out of stock currently.

I have a door cut in the wall where you have your sub located.
View attachment 125821

I was thinking about adding the sub to the wall where your right foot is near while driving. There is space there to fit the 10in opening, and enough depth to sink the sub all the way in there. Here's the remote, and where I'm considering adding the sub. Was going to put a stainless steel "ring" behind the wall for the sub to screw into to reinforce that area. Thoughts?
View attachment 125822

Did you run the sub wires around the bow of the boat? I had to run my remote wire around the bow to keep it hidden, and it was a giant PIA to get in there.

So at first I was actually going to pickup the M700/5 same as you just the marine version (I'm in salt so I will only buy JL's marine line even if it's an identical amp) but after talking with the guys at Creative they pointed me to the 600/6 as the bridged 5&6 channel will produce the same amount of power at 12.5v 4ohm as the 700/5 for less money and I retain the option to have dedicated channels down the line. If you call Creative with your list they are pretty good about giving "complete system pricing" and I was able to get a good discount on the amp. Even if you go referb XD for the 600/6 you will save some cash over the 700/5. Our boats charging systems won't be able to maintain 14.5volts for the system so assume power levels at 12.5volts.

Funny thats where I wanted to put the sub as well. The location is not quite deep enough to house a 10inch IB sub (by my estimations with a tape, never made it back to actually measure but it is tight and too big of a risk in my book). The subs also want a little bit of "breathing room" behind them as JL calls it. The shift and throttle cables also run right in the path of the hole so that can be an issue as well. 190's really do not have a lot of options for sub mounting so you might have to get creative. Maybe under the glove box on the port side? JL's stealth boxes might also be an option, I think @jEt_jAk has one under the seat.

Yep had to run the cables through the box, major pain. You technically could run it back to the engine box or thru the fuel tank compartment and then up to the amp but it would be a lot more cable/work. Also, do yourself a favor and pickup a 25' pull tape, best thing ever for running cables. https://www.amazon.com/Klein-Tools-...d=1&keywords=pull+tape&qid=1594663355&sr=8-10

 

[2kwik4u]

@JBehrens Thanks for the input. I'll give Creative a call and talk to them before I pull the trigger on the whole system. I've worked with them in the past (when selecting my soundbar), and they were helpful and responsive.

Social Coordinator and Budget Committee Chairwoman has capped me at $1,500 for the upgrade, so need to make sure I stay at least NEAR that number. I think I can get there.

Thanks again for the advice.

 

[JBehrens]

@JBehrens Thanks for the input. I'll give Creative a call and talk to them before I pull the trigger on the whole system. I've worked with them in the past (when selecting my soundbar), and they were helpful and responsive.

Social Coordinator and Budget Committee Chairwoman has capped me at $1,500 for the upgrade, so need to make sure I stay at least NEAR that number. I think I can get there.

Thanks again for the advice.

No problem, have fun with the project. You should have no problem getting it to $1,500, especially if you don't need a HU and remote.

This was my cost for the project last year (all new equipment):
JL M600/6 - $485
JL MX650 - $200
JL MX770 - $253
JL MX10IB - $179
Kenwood M325BT - $110
150amp breaker - $30
KnuKonceptz Speaker wire/RCA : ~$75
Masa 100% OFC 4AWG power wire ~$100

Total: ~$1,430

 

[2kwik4u]

No problem, have fun with the project. You should have no problem getting it to $1,500, especially if you don't need a HU and remote.

This was my cost for the project last year (all new equipment):
JL M600/6 - $485
JL MX650 - $200
JL MX770 - $253
JL MX10IB - $179
Kenwood M325BT - $110
150amp breaker - $30
KnuKonceptz Speaker wire/RCA : ~$75
Masa 100% OFC 4AWG power wire ~$100

Total: ~$1,430

yea, that looks totally doable.

I'm guessing you ran a power and ground up the side of the boat for the amp, but left the power/ground for the head unit on the stock harness? Did you run a ground all the way back to the battery?

I'm getting some feedback now through my soundbar, and I'm 99% certain it's a ground loop problem, so I would like to consolidate the amp/hu/bar all onto a single power/ground bus bar, and the put the whole system on the breaker. Would like to take care of that while it's all apart.

 

[JBehrens]

yea, that looks totally doable.

I'm guessing you ran a power and ground up the side of the boat for the amp, but left the power/ground for the head unit on the stock harness? Did you run a ground all the way back to the battery?

I'm getting some feedback now through my soundbar, and I'm 99% certain it's a ground loop problem, so I would like to consolidate the amp/hu/bar all onto a single power/ground bus bar, and the put the whole system on the breaker. Would like to take care of that while it's all apart.

I ran 4AWG Pos/Neg up the side of the boat to the amp then had the head unit's power/ground wires plug into the amp with the amps wire. Kind of a botched way to do it but I didn't feel like adding a bus bar for one pice of gear that doesn't draw that much power. I did this after having problems with ground loop and the stock harness. This post explains it a little more: https://jetboaters.net/threads/houston-we-got-a-hiss.22791/

TLDR: Anything stereo needs to be isolated for clean audio.

 

[2kwik4u]

@JBehrens thanks for the explanation. I got it now. Appreciate the help!

 

[JBehrens]

Mod 14: Air Intake

Was looking at adding a Riva Power Filter kit but had a hard time justifying the $240 asking price and wanted to keep the factory breather for now. My end goal was to get the air intake and filter closer to the engine box holes but that will be for another time. Figured it would be easy to grab a K&N and an adapter like some have done on the 192/5's. Turns out the 190's are a different size/setup. I ordered the K&N filter that Riva sells (works as a flame arrester), with a Riva prefilter. Went ahead and removed the factory airbox and took measurements, searched the internet high and low and could not find an off the self adapter that would fit in the space. After a little trial and error, I was able to get a 3" 90deg pipe to allow more room for an adapter. Below is the result of some redneck engineering, I do not recommend this setup as it might fall apart and I may end up changing for the Riva kit later on.

Riva Power Filter Kit: https://rivaracing.com/i-21239727-riva-yamaha-gp-fx-vxr-vxs-ho-power-filter-kit-2012-20.html

Riva Filter: https://rivaracing.com/i-17283394-riva-power-filter.html
Riva Water Prefilter: https://rivaracing.com/i-24076794-riva-waterproof-pre-filter.html
3" Coupler: Amazon.com: 3" ID Straight Silicone Hose Coupler, High Temp 4-Ply Reinforced (Qty 1) - 131-07603-0401 - Ticon Industries: Automotive
3" 90deg pipe: Amazon.com: Spectre Performance 9499 3" 90 Degree Mandrel Intake Tube: Automotive
3" to 4" adapter: POWERTEC 70145 4-Inch to 3-Inch Reducer - - Amazon.com

Redneck Engineering, creating greatness out of butchery

With factory breather line

 

[Manuel Gutierrez]

Great writeup, I have a 2014 SX190, still plan to add LED's and subwoofer. Do you plan to add a depth finder or GPS, tired of running into low areas but not sure what the best way to go. My speedometer transducer just took a hit and a fin broke off, wondering if I could find something to kill two birds with one stone.

 

[JBehrens]

Great writeup, I have a 2014 SX190, still plan to add LED's and subwoofer. Do you plan to add a depth finder or GPS, tired of running into low areas but not sure what the best way to go. My speedometer transducer just took a hit and a fin broke off, wondering if I could find something to kill two birds with one stone.

The boat already had a basic depth finder when I got it, was looking at possibly adding a Simrad GO5 or small Garmin plotter but just can't justify it. 99% of the time, Nvionics on the phone has been enough for me and is much more cost effective then adding a full plotter. Ridesteady took care of my need for accurate GPS speed and is a huge upgrade to the boat if you want accurate speed with the bonus of speed control then that would be the way to go. If you want a full plotter/transducer setup then check out Garmin, they seem to be the most reliable. You could also look into a basic depth finder, can't remember the name of mine but the transducer is internally mounted and could probably be picked up for ~$200.

 

[2kwik4u]

You could also look into a basic depth finder, can't remember the name of mine but the transducer is internally mounted and could probably be picked up for ~$200.

I've been looking at this one. Just a basic no frills depth and temp gage.

Warning - Boatersland Marine

 

[Manuel Gutierrez]

Looks interesting and the fact that I wouldnt have to drill through the hull is great. May give it a try. Thanks

 

[JBehrens]

Mod 15: GatorStep Decking

This one was a little slow in the making starting back in June and not getting the product installed until August. I wanted to upgrade from the stock Hydroturf without going the silver over black teak SeaDeck route thats seen on every other boat on the water (nothing wrong with that, just not my style). After some research and calls, I decided to go with GatorStep instead of SeaDeck. GatorStep Socal is about 15min away from my house, making the drop off/pick up of templates super easy, also saved about $100 in shipping. The style is called diamond etched with colors teak/navy, they had both the swim deck as well as bow pieces available for the 190 but I opted to stick with carpet in the cockpit. The end product is awesome and really gives a custom look to the boat and makes the boat feel a lot newer then it is.

If you are looking to do something similar go check them out: Costa Mesa, Ca

Templating phase, they did have a 190 already in the system but when the paper proofs were cut I noticed the swim deck hatch did not line up quite right needing a retemplate.

Art proof of the final design:



The Hydroturf removal is painful and takes 4x longer than you can ever imagine. It sucks.
Trip: 3M eraser wheel is the best, have extra batteries on hand or borrow a corded drill if you can and don't try to install the night before you leave to go to Lake Powell.

The end result, boat is transformed:

Bow:

Trailer:

 

[KevJul2019]

Did you upgrade the timing chain?

 

[JBehrens]

Did you upgrade the timing chain?

I did not, if I remember correctly, the engine date is July of 2013 so it should be in the clear.

 

[JBehrens]

Mod 16: JetBoat Pilot Lateral Thruster and Thrust Vector

Was able to get my hands on a used Lateral Thruster, wanted to give that a go with the TV's. The Cobra's did well and it will be interesting to see the differences between the two systems, hoping to get less spray with the JBP product and better reverse tracking.

 

[Manuel Gutierrez]

Selling the cobras?

 

[tabbibus]

Mod 16: JetBoat Pilot Lateral Thruster and Thrust Vector

Was able to get my hands on a used Lateral Thruster, wanted to give that a go with the TV's. The Cobra's did well and it will be interesting to see the differences between the two systems, hoping to get less spray with the JBP product and better reverse tracking.

View attachment 148681View attachment 148682

LT have been a game changer for me. I can dance around tight spots now!