2019 SCARAB 195G, Single - 4-TEC 200 w/Catalyst, O2 Sensor Replacement Process

[fostebrian]

Engine service light appeared (no visible codes on dashboard). I took the boat to my local dealer for a diagnostic. The downstream O2 Sensor is the issue. Recommendation is to "rebuild the entire Catalyst system for $3,300 ish, or do a temporary fix of replacing the two O2 sensors for $1200. Boat has 61 total hours at the time of the code. It had the usual 50 hour service about 2 months ago. I decided I would fix it myself (two sensors with seals were about $200 from the dealer). I would simply replace the the sensors but the dealer was kind enough to take a photo of the two sensors. The downstream sensor looked very nasty, almost corroded. I figure some moisture must be getting in that area. So, since the sensors come with the seals that go on either side of the catalyst body, I thought I would just pull it off and put the new seals in....However! I am confused about the way water cools and is this ocean water or sealed/closed-loop water? The service manual requires the water supply tube be removed from the catalyst at some point in the disassembly. I did not want to dump actual coolant and end up with air in the line if this is a closed system. Unfortunately, I am unable to determine what is what concerning the type of water being supplied. I am not a SCARAB mechanic but I have replaced the entire catalytic converter and O2 sensors on a RAV4, lol. So, I do not fear the engine but I would like some advice to remedy what I perceive is the need to seal up that catalyst a bit better after installing the new sensors. I am not made of money to carelessly toss money at repairs. I take care of my things and $200 sure is better than the alternative. But, I would appreciate any advice if anyone has noticed the O2 Sensor Bulletin for 2018 or has had a similar issue and replaced the O2 sensors and seals that the part comes with. Thank you.

 

[JetBoat195G]

You may want to try just changing the downstream oxygen sensor. Please see the link below to a thread with additional information on oxygen sensors.

J

Post in thread 'rotax error 2245'

Aug 17, 2024

I’m just sharing some additional information on the oxygen sensors. It is now 2024 and I have approximately 105 hours on my 2019 Scarab 195G. The check engine light came on again, and this time I had fault code P013F and intermittent P0136. These are both oxygen sensor fault codes. I replaced the post-catalyst oxygen sensor, and the check engine light went out after a few engine start cycles. The P013F is still there, but I’m hoping that it too will go away over time. I’m starting to think that I’ll need to replace this oxygen sensor every few years. I operate the boat nearly always in...

• JetBoat195G

 

[JetBoat195G]

It appears that I'm technology challenged. Here's the link.

rotax error 2245

 

[hoosaroni]

Engine service light appeared (no visible codes on dashboard). I took the boat to my local dealer for a diagnostic. The downstream O2 Sensor is the issue. Recommendation is to "rebuild the entire Catalyst system for $3,300 ish, or do a temporary fix of replacing the two O2 sensors for $1200. Boat has 61 total hours at the time of the code. It had the usual 50 hour service about 2 months ago. I decided I would fix it myself (two sensors with seals were about $200 from the dealer). I would simply replace the the sensors but the dealer was kind enough to take a photo of the two sensors. The downstream sensor looked very nasty, almost corroded. I figure some moisture must be getting in that area. So, since the sensors come with the seals that go on either side of the catalyst body, I thought I would just pull it off and put the new seals in....However! I am confused about the way water cools and is this ocean water or sealed/closed-loop water? The service manual requires the water supply tube be removed from the catalyst at some point in the disassembly. I did not want to dump actual coolant and end up with air in the line if this is a closed system. Unfortunately, I am unable to determine what is what concerning the type of water being supplied. I am not a SCARAB mechanic but I have replaced the entire catalytic converter and O2 sensors on a RAV4, lol. So, I do not fear the engine but I would like some advice to remedy what I perceive is the need to seal up that catalyst a bit better after installing the new sensors. I am not made of money to carelessly toss money at repairs. I take care of my things and $200 sure is better than the alternative. But, I would appreciate any advice if anyone has noticed the O2 Sensor Bulletin for 2018 or has had a similar issue and replaced the O2 sensors and seals that the part comes with. Thank you.

Having the same problem on my 2014 200 hp Scarab 195. 15 hours after replacing the O2 sensor, I’m getting the P1030 error code again. I’m going to pull the CC this weekend and hopefully see where the leak is according to the bulletin. There’s a good Rotex video about the cooling system on YouTube, but it doesn’t show the CC.

 

[fostebrian]

I completed the work of removing the catalyst and replacing the 2 O-rings and the two oxygen sensors. Since I spent about 6-hours (no exaggeration) searching for a dropped bolt, allow me to enlighten anyone else who hates paying thousands of dollars for $200 worth of parts. There are two bolts that hold the catalyst up at the center point. The two bolts oppose each other because one mounts on the lower left and the other on the upper right. You can't pull the catalyst off without removing those two bolts. I used a long pair of needle nose plyers to support the left-side bolt when removing, so it would not drop. However, you wont be able to use players to support the bolt back through the catalyst mount (the multitude of hoses will prevent you and you will drop it). Prepare to be a monkey. Place the left-side bolt in your right hand/fingers, reach over the top of the catalyst and curve your arm and fingers back around and under the catalyst. You can do it, as impossible as it looks. Your fingers will be able to push that bolt into the hole (while avoiding the hoses) and with a little rocking of the catalyst, it will slide in. Bonus tip. That right side, opposing bolt can be managed easily. So, if you put that on in first with a few turns, the left side bolt hole will already be aligned appropriately. Lastly, my engine light is still on but that is because I don't have the $650 to buy a code reader and erase it. I guess I will beg Scarab when I head back for a different maintenance in the future. I feel like a super hero having saved over 3k in repairs. FYI, this is an actual ongoing issue with these catalyst. However, the warranty/recall only applies to the original owner and it was only in affect in 2018. If it were not for the safety bulletin, I would not have known why the O2 sensors crapped out at 60 hours of use. At least I came across that and the procedure to fix it.

 

[hoosaroni]

I completed the work of removing the catalyst and replacing the 2 O-rings and the two oxygen sensors. Since I spent about 6-hours (no exaggeration) searching for a dropped bolt, allow me to enlighten anyone else who hates paying thousands of dollars for $200 worth of parts. There are two bolts that hold the catalyst up at the center point. The two bolts oppose each other because one mounts on the lower left and the other on the upper right. You can't pull the catalyst off without removing those two bolts. I used a long pair of needle nose plyers to support the left-side bolt when removing, so it would not drop. However, you wont be able to use players to support the bolt back through the catalyst mount (the multitude of hoses will prevent you and you will drop it). Prepare to be a monkey. Place the left-side bolt in your right hand/fingers, reach over the top of the catalyst and curve your arm and fingers back around and under the catalyst. You can do it, as impossible as it looks. Your fingers will be able to push that bolt into the hole (while avoiding the hoses) and with a little rocking of the catalyst, it will slide in. Bonus tip. That right side, opposing bolt can be managed easily. So, if you put that on in first with a few turns, the left side bolt hole will already be aligned appropriately. Lastly, my engine light is still on but that is because I don't have the $650 to buy a code reader and erase it. I guess I will beg Scarab when I head back for a different maintenance in the future. I feel like a super hero having saved over 3k in repairs. FYI, this is an actual ongoing issue with these catalyst. However, the warranty/recall only applies to the original owner and it was only in affect in 2018. If it were not for the safety bulletin, I would not have known why the O2 sensors crapped out at 60 hours of use. At least I came across that and the procedure to fix it.

That is very much appreciated!! I am a pro at dropping bolts in the bilge. My check engine light has been on since the O2 sensor was replaced in May with no codes displayed till now. Still runs great like it did all summer.

 

[fostebrian]

UPDATE! to the original issue O2 sensor warning. The engine/sensor warning went away on my third river journey, after replacing the Catalyst O-Rings. I looked down and noticed it was extinguished. It never came back and it's now March 2025. Now the last annoying problem is stiff steering but its had that issue since I purchased it used. I have no clue what is causing it, but it is starting to get my attention.

 

[krock]

UPDATE! to the original issue O2 sensor warning. The engine/sensor warning went away on my third river journey, after replacing the Catalyst O-Rings. I looked down and noticed it was extinguished. It never came back and it's now March 2025. Now the last annoying problem is stiff steering but its had that issue since I purchased it used. I have no clue what is causing it, but it is starting to get my attention.

Good evening! I am trying to remove the catalyst assembly on my 2017 Scarab 255 HOI...I have almost finished removing the bolts ( a bitch!) I have one more hose clamp to remove the lower one. I have dropped two screws in the bilge! I was either going to match them up or go fishing with a magnet! I can tell those two opposing bolts on the mounting bracket are going to be a bitch to get back inline! Question: did you move or remove any hoses? I did because it was easier to access some of the bolts. I am having trouble with the last hose clamp because the screw is turned down toward the bilge. I am 64 and I used to work on cars and boats a lot, but this is too much for an old man. I hope I can finish tonight, order the catalyst housing, sensors and o rings reassemble and be riding by next week! TIA!

 

[fostebrian]

Yes, I had to remove per the instructions. I don't know if this site allows me to post the word document but if it doesn't. I am going to at least give you the text. As a side note...you MUST get any hardware off the bottom hull. It will eventually work its way to the pinch point below the engine and hull. The vibration will chew a hole in the engine case. I used a small telescoping handle that has a mirror to see around objects. At any hardware store you can find these. The Text follows:
CATALYST (FOR MODELS WITH CATALYST)

Catalyst Access
To access engine compartment, refer to ENGINE ACCESS in ENGINE REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION subsection.
Remove muffler. Refer to MUFFLER REMOVAL in this section.
Catalyst Removal
During removal process pay close attention to clamp placement and orientation! Clamps must be in the same orientation to allow access and avoid interference with other components.
All engines
Loosen retaining clamp holding the air intake tube.

200 and 250 engines
Loosen clamp holding air intake hose to supercharger.

150 engines
Loosen retaining clamp holding air intake hose to throttle body

All engines
Remove air intake hose.
Loosen retaining clamps holding exhaust hose to resonator inlet.
Loosen retaining clamps holding exhaust hose to muffler.
Remove exhaust hose.
Remove electrical connector of exhaust gas temperature sensor (EGTS).

250 engines
Loosen retaining clamp holding intercooler exhaust hose from intercooler.
Loosen retaining clamp holding intercooler exhaust hose from throttle body.
Remove intercooler exhaust hose.
Loosen retaining clamp holding intercooler intake hose from intercooler.
Loosen retaining clamp holding intercooler intake hose from supercharger.
Remove intercooler intake hose.

All engines
Cut locking ties securing the two O2 sensor connectors and disconnect them from harness.
Disconnect water lines from CAT housing:
Loosen retaining clamp and disconnect lower catalyst water supply hose on PORT side CAT housing.
Loosen retaining clamp and disconnect upper catalyst water supply hose at exhaust manifold.
Loosen retaining clamp and disconnect catalyst water outlet hose on STBD side CAT housing.
Loosen retaining clamp and disconnect catalyst vent outlet hose on STBD side CAT housing.
Remove the two catalyst mounting bolts holding the center housing to the mounting bracket.
A long 6 mm ball Allen socket is needed to reach the socket head screws.
Remove the plastic protective cap and loosen the exhaust retaining clamp holding the catalyst to the exhaust manifold.
Do not use pneumatic or electric tools as seizure of the fastener may occur.
The catalyst can now be removed from the vehicle as an assy. along with the muffler.
On some TWIN applications clearance could be a problem when removing the catalyst and muffler as an assembly. If necessary the muffler can be removed from the catalyst tail housing by loosening the "upper" hose retaining clamp and hose which secures the muffler to the housing. The muffler and hose can then be rotated and/or pushed downwards off the tail housing in order to facilitate the removal.

Catalyst Disassembly
Catalyst assemblies should never be disassembled unless direct catalyst repairs are needed.
Remove retaining screws securing catalyst housing to:
– Head pipe assembly
– Cone tail exhaust assembly
Remove and discard O-ring and catalyst from catalyst housing.

Catalyst Assembly
Assembly is the reverse of disassembly. However pay attention to the following:
Always reassemble catalyst housing using NEW O-rings.
Tighten all retaining screws snugly.
Apply LOCTITE 243 (BLUE)(M) (P/N 460790) to catalyst housing retaining screws.
Once all screws have been tightened snugly, tighten retaining screws to the following specifications:
Catalyst Installation
Observe the tightening torques on the exploded views on the first pages.
Before tightening the CAT housing to manifold and center housing to bracket make sure the assy. is biased (counter clockwise when looking at the rear of the engine). This will raise the muffler up off the stringer allowing clearance for engine/muffler movement without contact to the vehicles stringer.
If the muffler was removed from the assy. during removal, make sure the rotation and final orientation of the muffler allows for clearance to the fiberglass pump box area in the rear and stringer/engine components in the front.
Installation is the reverse of removal. However pay attention to the following:
Apply LOCTITE 243 (BLUE)(M) (P/N 460790) to bracket retaining screws.
Install catalyst to bracket and torque screws to specifications.
Install hose to catalyst and retaining clamp and tighten to specification.