2019+ Yamaha 195 impeller replacement

[Hoyt]

Got the boat out for the first test and the holeshot cavitation is definitely fixed. It feels very torquey now. Loaded up with 8 people, bimini coolers ect it would still get up to 35mph according to the dash speedo. which Im happy with considering I changed the impeller pitch

Glad it worked out for ya my man

 

[YamaHog]

So as many of you already know I destroyed my stock yamaha 195s impeller and wear ring at the end of the year last season. I beached my boat in a Rocky/shelly beach. Killed my sound system batteries and started the boat. An hour later I came to shut it off, and heard the shells going through impeller. Bad call I know. So I'm starting this thread because of the general lack of knowledge I found on internet when I had this problem. So hopefully this helps someone else out in the future.....
So I was experiencing bad cavitation from a stop to getting on plane. Stock the boat took a couple seconds to get on plane. After problems... A minute or longer. I also had a "pinging" sound coming from the impeller area under load. The more people on board the worse it was. Top speed was dramatically decreased as well from stock 48-50 to now 35 with 2 people.
So I removed my impeller and jet pump from the boat(process described in pics after my story). Took it to my local PWC shop guru to fix. He replaced the wear ring with stock yamaha version, and had my impeller resurfaced at a local place (he was unable to order new at the time). So first test.... 2 people on board.... Cavitation was improved but still not stock, and we could hit 41mph. Fast forward to first family outing of the year..... 6 people on board (normal crew) and the boat would not get on plane. It would not go over 10mph. Clean out plug not set right? Nope.... Impeller for sure.......
So here starts the process of researching and rebuilding yet again......
So I started by finding the OEM Yamaha impeller part number for my 195s (same as sx195, and AR195 BTW) that number is (6GN-R1321-10-00). Good luck finding one BTW. So I then cross referenced it to Solas impeller, and found part number YV-CD 13/18 is the correct impeller for my not modified SVHO yamaha engine. Now this is a different pitch then stock. Stock is 13/20. Yamaha pitched it to have a little cavitation at start to add more top end speed. The 13/18 Solas is too eliminate cavitation, and by doing so you loose a couple mph on the top end. I'm perfectly fine with that....
So let's get to the removal....
This is what you see on back of your boat. I have Cobra jet fins installed here.... View attachment 178817
We are going after these 8 large bolts. They are 14mm socket....
View attachment 178818
First we pull off shifter rod from top of bucket. 10mm socket. One on each side. Pro tip.... Put bolts back in rod once removed so you know where they go. Rod just lifts up once bolts are removed
View attachment 178819
Like this. Just rest it on top.
View attachment 178820
Then we need to remove the steering rod. This is a 11mm socket, and wrench. Side note... If you have aftermarket fins you'll need to remove this side bolts of the fins to get steering rod bolt out. Again put all bolts back in to not lose them...
View attachment 178823
Fins are 14mm socket as well
View attachment 178824
Once the steering rod bolt is out be sure to not lose these two nylon washers in the hole. One on top and one on bottom...
View attachment 178825
Now we're ready to pull the pump. Take the outside 4 bolts out first. I did inside and it won't come out as whole. Must remove front pump section first. These are 14mm socket
View attachment 178827
This is your Pry point to unseal the 5200 on front pump to rear
View attachment 178828
One or both of these tools make separation of the pump super simple
View attachment 178829
Boom. Comes right apart
View attachment 178830
Once front pump is off your looking at this. Remove the 4 14mm socket bolts, and 1 10mm bolt (already done in this pic)
View attachment 178831
Removing the anode makes it way easier to access port side bolts. 10mm socket
View attachment 178832
There's your 2 14mm and one 10mm bolts that need to come out next. Pay attention to your intake grate. When you have pump off it's a good idea to open this, and clean and inspect. 100% of your engines cooling water comes through here
View attachment 178833
Extensions are key here to get these
View attachment 178834
Pry bar here again. Behind back pump and against transome. Pops right loose
View attachment 178835
From that point just grab the pump and pull it out. It'll come right out. Take it to your bench. Now the fun begins.... These are the needed tools to replace the stock impeller with a Solas upgrade it's their shaft holder....
View attachment 178836
Spline holder slides onto splines at end of shaft, and allow you to cinch it down on a vice. Definitely gonna need the vice. Without it is gonna be Hell
View attachment 178837
Here's your impeller, and this is what we are after. They are reverse threaded. So it comes off clockwise, and it's a real bitch. However, I got a trick for ya..... We used a 1 1/16" wrench for this (26 or 27mm would be better, but we didn't have it). A long 4'pipe to slide over the wrench for leverage would work amazing. We used a 5#sledge hammer instead and beat the wrench. Couple hits and boom she broke free no problem....
View attachment 178838
Here we are impeller is off. Once loose just twist it by hand off the threads. Then slide it off the spine end of shaft. Obviously it needs to come off vice first ?
View attachment 178839
Side by side of stock impeller (right) vs Solas impeller (right). Little shorter, and tighter pitch
View attachment 178840
Here you can see the Solas impeller installation tool. Solas impellers don't have the built in nut like stock impellers do. They supply this tool with the impeller. Counter clockwise install.
View attachment 178841
Finished look with tool removed. From here remove all old sealant from flange (black stuff in pic), and apply new sealant. I used 3m 5200 again
View attachment 178842

Now reinstall is reverse of disassemble. Edit.... It is very very helpful to have a second person when installing rear pump and shaft. Have them on swim deck with arm down clean out hole. They will grab shaft and turn it while your are pushing pump in. It's a bitch to line up by yourself. Super easy with someone turning shaft. DON'T OVER TIGHTEN BOLTS THEY WILL SNAP. It is a yamaha after all. Hopefully this all helped someone further down the road. 5200 takes 72 hours to fully cure. So I'll be water testing Saturday (4 days after install), and will update the results.....

@Hoyt , thanks so much for writing this up! I'm in the process of replacing my impeller now after a nasty end-of-season beaching incident due to low water levels on a local reservoir. It looks like the stock Yamaha impeller part # is STILL hard to locate. I'm looking at the Solas impellers and was wondering if there's any reason I shouldn't go with Part # YV-CD-13/20 to retain the same pitch as the stock impeller. How much top end speed did you lose changing pitches to the 13/18? I understand the 13/18 pitch eliminates the cavitation, I just don't want to lose too much top end. The top speed I've achieved with my 2020 195S is 46 mph.

 

[acdomonoske]

So as many of you already know I destroyed my stock yamaha 195s impeller and wear ring at the end of the year last season. I beached my boat in a Rocky/shelly beach. Killed my sound system batteries and started the boat. An hour later I came to shut it off, and heard the shells going through impeller. Bad call I know. So I'm starting this thread because of the general lack of knowledge I found on internet when I had this problem. So hopefully this helps someone else out in the future.....
So I was experiencing bad cavitation from a stop to getting on plane. Stock the boat took a couple seconds to get on plane. After problems... A minute or longer. I also had a "pinging" sound coming from the impeller area under load. The more people on board the worse it was. Top speed was dramatically decreased as well from stock 48-50 to now 35 with 2 people.
So I removed my impeller and jet pump from the boat(process described in pics after my story). Took it to my local PWC shop guru to fix. He replaced the wear ring with stock yamaha version, and had my impeller resurfaced at a local place (he was unable to order new at the time). So first test.... 2 people on board.... Cavitation was improved but still not stock, and we could hit 41mph. Fast forward to first family outing of the year..... 6 people on board (normal crew) and the boat would not get on plane. It would not go over 10mph. Clean out plug not set right? Nope.... Impeller for sure.......
So here starts the process of researching and rebuilding yet again......
So I started by finding the OEM Yamaha impeller part number for my 195s (same as sx195, and AR195 BTW) that number is (6GN-R1321-10-00). Good luck finding one BTW. So I then cross referenced it to Solas impeller, and found part number YV-CD 13/18 is the correct impeller for my not modified SVHO yamaha engine. Now this is a different pitch then stock. Stock is 13/20. Yamaha pitched it to have a little cavitation at start to add more top end speed. The 13/18 Solas is too eliminate cavitation, and by doing so you loose a couple mph on the top end. I'm perfectly fine with that....
So let's get to the removal....
This is what you see on back of your boat. I have Cobra jet fins installed here.... View attachment 178817
We are going after these 8 large bolts. They are 14mm socket....
View attachment 178818
First we pull off shifter rod from top of bucket. 10mm socket. One on each side. Pro tip.... Put bolts back in rod once removed so you know where they go. Rod just lifts up once bolts are removed
View attachment 178819
Like this. Just rest it on top.
View attachment 178820
Then we need to remove the steering rod. This is a 11mm socket, and wrench. Side note... If you have aftermarket fins you'll need to remove this side bolts of the fins to get steering rod bolt out. Again put all bolts back in to not lose them...
View attachment 178823
Fins are 14mm socket as well
View attachment 178824
Once the steering rod bolt is out be sure to not lose these two nylon washers in the hole. One on top and one on bottom...
View attachment 178825
Now we're ready to pull the pump. Take the outside 4 bolts out first. I did inside and it won't come out as whole. Must remove front pump section first. These are 14mm socket
View attachment 178827
This is your Pry point to unseal the 5200 on front pump to rear
View attachment 178828
One or both of these tools make separation of the pump super simple
View attachment 178829
Boom. Comes right apart
View attachment 178830
Once front pump is off your looking at this. Remove the 4 14mm socket bolts, and 1 10mm bolt (already done in this pic)
View attachment 178831
Removing the anode makes it way easier to access port side bolts. 10mm socket
View attachment 178832
There's your 2 14mm and one 10mm bolts that need to come out next. Pay attention to your intake grate. When you have pump off it's a good idea to open this, and clean and inspect. 100% of your engines cooling water comes through here
View attachment 178833
Extensions are key here to get these
View attachment 178834
Pry bar here again. Behind back pump and against transome. Pops right loose
View attachment 178835
From that point just grab the pump and pull it out. It'll come right out. Take it to your bench. Now the fun begins.... These are the needed tools to replace the stock impeller with a Solas upgrade it's their shaft holder....
View attachment 178836
Spline holder slides onto splines at end of shaft, and allow you to cinch it down on a vice. Definitely gonna need the vice. Without it is gonna be Hell
View attachment 178837
Here's your impeller, and this is what we are after. They are reverse threaded. So it comes off clockwise, and it's a real bitch. However, I got a trick for ya..... We used a 1 1/16" wrench for this (26 or 27mm would be better, but we didn't have it). A long 4'pipe to slide over the wrench for leverage would work amazing. We used a 5#sledge hammer instead and beat the wrench. Couple hits and boom she broke free no problem....
View attachment 178838
Here we are impeller is off. Once loose just twist it by hand off the threads. Then slide it off the spine end of shaft. Obviously it needs to come off vice first ?
View attachment 178839
Side by side of stock impeller (right) vs Solas impeller (right). Little shorter, and tighter pitch
View attachment 178840
Here you can see the Solas impeller installation tool. Solas impellers don't have the built in nut like stock impellers do. They supply this tool with the impeller. Counter clockwise install.
View attachment 178841
Finished look with tool removed. From here remove all old sealant from flange (black stuff in pic), and apply new sealant. I used 3m 5200 again
View attachment 178842

Now reinstall is reverse of disassemble. Edit.... It is very very helpful to have a second person when installing rear pump and shaft. Have them on swim deck with arm down clean out hole. They will grab shaft and turn it while your are pushing pump in. It's a bitch to line up by yourself. Super easy with someone turning shaft. DON'T OVER TIGHTEN BOLTS THEY WILL SNAP. It is a yamaha after all. Hopefully this all helped someone further down the road. 5200 takes 72 hours to fully cure. So I'll be water testing Saturday (4 days after install), and will update the results.....

Dude, thanks for the write up! I was having the same issue with my 2019 AR and with the new impeller you recommended it runs out better than factory!

 

[Hoyt]

Dude, thanks for the write up! I was having the same issue with my 2019 AR and with the new impeller you recommended it runs out better than factory!

No problem at all my man. That's why I do these write ups when I screw up ? ? ?

 

[rojasjh]

Hey @Hoyt. I am thinking I have the same issues as you. Last year when I had my 2019 AR195 loaded with people I could barely get the boat on plane and it took forever. It would just move at a slow speed and if you tried to accelerate more it would just cavitate and slow down, you really really had to nurse it on plane and wakeboarding was impossible.

Im thinking of changing out the impeller for the Solas and replacing the wear ring, your write up was very helpful for the impeller and I know you had the wear ring replaced at a PWC shop but was curious if you could provide insight on changing the ring, as in does the sleeve just slide out of the housing ect?

TIA!

Hello Brandon!. This is Jose from Houston, TX. I have been researching and reading previous posts and came up with yours above which describes closely what I have been experiencing lately. I have owned the boat (2015 AR192) for about three months now. I decided to go for the original Yamaha impeller (received) and impeller housing (will be delivered tomorrow). This afternoon I went ahead and started taking all components apart. The old impeller does not look too good and the housing is all scratched.. The impeller does not turn freely inside the housing (by hand) when in horizontal position. Tomorrow I will start looking for a place to break the impeller free since I do not have a work bench or a vise at home. This last weekend I had the boat loaded with 7 people and a heavy ice chest. It took forever to plane and I was not getting more than 10-12 mpg. At some point I hit 7,000 RPM and then drop to 5000 RPM. Did this a few times, so I just continue cruising below 7,000 RPM until finally started planing. I think at that point I was getting like 20 mph.. Wanted to ask if your original issues (which seem very similar to mine) were fully resolved after you changed your impeller and housing? Is your boat now going into plane much faster than before even when carrying 7-8 people? Can you still tow a tube or a wakeboard rider when carrying that much weigh? Man, I would greatly appreciate your comments cause I am staying positive what I am about to do will solve my issues as well.. Best regards. Jose Rojas

 

[Hoyt]

Hello Brandon!. This is Jose from Houston, TX. I have been researching and reading previous posts and came up with yours above which describes closely what I have been experiencing lately. I have owned the boat (2015 AR192) for about three months now. I decided to go for the original Yamaha impeller (received) and impeller housing (will be delivered tomorrow). This afternoon I went ahead and started taking all components apart. The old impeller does not look too good and the housing is all scratched.. The impeller does not turn freely inside the housing (by hand) when in horizontal position. Tomorrow I will start looking for a place to break the impeller free since I do not have a work bench or a vise at home. This last weekend I had the boat loaded with 7 people and a heavy ice chest. It took forever to plane and I was not getting more than 10-12 mpg. At some point I hit 7,000 RPM and then drop to 5000 RPM. Did this a few times, so I just continue cruising below 7,000 RPM until finally started planing. I think at that point I was getting like 20 mph.. Wanted to ask if your original issues (which seem very similar to mine) were fully resolved after you changed your impeller and housing? Is your boat now going into plane much faster than before even when carrying 7-8 people? Can you still tow a tube or a wakeboard rider when carrying that much weigh? Man, I would greatly appreciate your comments cause I am staying positive what I am about to do will solve my issues as well.. Best regards. Jose Rojas

Sounds to me like a new impeller and wear ring will solve your issues for sure. While you'll still get cavitation w with a boat load of people.... it'll be way less

 

[rojasjh]

Sounds to me like a new impeller and wear ring will solve your issues for sure. While you'll still get cavitation w with a boat load of people.... it'll be way less

Thanks for your input and additional comments.. Fingers Crossed!

 

[Farny]

Hello Brandon!. This is Jose from Houston, TX. I have been researching and reading previous posts and came up with yours above which describes closely what I have been experiencing lately. I have owned the boat (2015 AR192) for about three months now. I decided to go for the original Yamaha impeller (received) and impeller housing (will be delivered tomorrow). This afternoon I went ahead and started taking all components apart. The old impeller does not look too good and the housing is all scratched.. The impeller does not turn freely inside the housing (by hand) when in horizontal position. Tomorrow I will start looking for a place to break the impeller free since I do not have a work bench or a vise at home. This last weekend I had the boat loaded with 7 people and a heavy ice chest. It took forever to plane and I was not getting more than 10-12 mpg. At some point I hit 7,000 RPM and then drop to 5000 RPM. Did this a few times, so I just continue cruising below 7,000 RPM until finally started planing. I think at that point I was getting like 20 mph.. Wanted to ask if your original issues (which seem very similar to mine) were fully resolved after you changed your impeller and housing? Is your boat now going into plane much faster than before even when carrying 7-8 people? Can you still tow a tube or a wakeboard rider when carrying that much weigh? Man, I would greatly appreciate your comments cause I am staying positive what I am about to do will solve my issues as well.. Best regards. Jose Rojas

Aside from the impeller issue..Supercharger in good working order? only asking because of your RPM Issue.. did it drop on its own or did you reduce throttle? If not supercharger , change plugs (cheap easy)

 

[rojasjh]

Spark plugs were recently replaced. The drop from 7,000 to 5,000 RPM was on its own when trying to plane but also the boat was fully loaded (8 people). I do not know much about recognizing cavitation issues but maybe that condition is also related to the drop on RPM.. With the exemption of that event the engine sounded to be running smoothly. I think I would be able to tell more once I replace the impeller and housing and perform the test drive. I think cavitation due to bad impellers might rob power from the engine and reduce the RPM at some point. By the way, what should be the RPM limit for these boats (AR192 Supercharged) ? Thanks !!!

 

[Farny]

Spark plugs were recently replaced. The drop from 7,000 to 5,000 RPM was on its own when trying to plane but also the boat was fully loaded (8 people). I do not know much about recognizing cavitation issues but maybe that condition is also related to the drop on RPM.. With the exemption of that event the engine sounded to be running smoothly. I think I would be able to tell more once I replace the impeller and housing and perform the test drive. I think cavitation due to bad impellers might rob power from the engine and reduce the RPM at some point. By the way, what should be the RPM limit for these boats (AR192 Supercharged) ? Thanks !!!

My 195s had a little more supercharger and ran around 74-7500 rpm wot. Not 100% sure on the 192 - maybe 7-7200?. Cavitation would actually cause rpm to go up, but with loss of thrust. So unless u had something caught in the impeller, rpm would not drop. Still could possibly be faulty plug or gap. Put brand new ones in mine once and had the same issue dropping to about 5000 intermittent. Changed plugs again and problem solved.

think of cavitation like a spin out, like when your car tires lose traction on wetroad acellerating.

 

[Jerrymj2929]

Does anyone know if this nipple needs to be plugged?

 

[BrandonG]

Does anyone know if this nipple needs to be plugged?

I did end up tapping it and installing a plug, I believe others have said its a holdover from Yamaha using the same nozzle on the Jetski's

 

[Evanfspencer]

So as many of you already know I destroyed my stock yamaha 195s impeller and wear ring at the end of the year last season. I beached my boat in a Rocky/shelly beach. Killed my sound system batteries and started the boat. An hour later I came to shut it off, and heard the shells going through impeller. Bad call I know. So I'm starting this thread because of the general lack of knowledge I found on internet when I had this problem. So hopefully this helps someone else out in the future.....
So I was experiencing bad cavitation from a stop to getting on plane. Stock the boat took a couple seconds to get on plane. After problems... A minute or longer. I also had a "pinging" sound coming from the impeller area under load. The more people on board the worse it was. Top speed was dramatically decreased as well from stock 48-50 to now 35 with 2 people.
So I removed my impeller and jet pump from the boat(process described in pics after my story). Took it to my local PWC shop guru to fix. He replaced the wear ring with stock yamaha version, and had my impeller resurfaced at a local place (he was unable to order new at the time). So first test.... 2 people on board.... Cavitation was improved but still not stock, and we could hit 41mph. Fast forward to first family outing of the year..... 6 people on board (normal crew) and the boat would not get on plane. It would not go over 10mph. Clean out plug not set right? Nope.... Impeller for sure.......
So here starts the process of researching and rebuilding yet again......
So I started by finding the OEM Yamaha impeller part number for my 195s (same as sx195, and AR195 BTW) that number is (6GN-R1321-10-00). Good luck finding one BTW. So I then cross referenced it to Solas impeller, and found part number YV-CD 13/18 is the correct impeller for my not modified SVHO yamaha engine. Now this is a different pitch then stock. Stock is 13/20. Yamaha pitched it to have a little cavitation at start to add more top end speed. The 13/18 Solas is too eliminate cavitation, and by doing so you loose a couple mph on the top end. I'm perfectly fine with that....
So let's get to the removal....
This is what you see on back of your boat. I have Cobra jet fins installed here.... View attachment 178817
We are going after these 8 large bolts. They are 14mm socket....
View attachment 178818
First we pull off shifter rod from top of bucket. 10mm socket. One on each side. Pro tip.... Put bolts back in rod once removed so you know where they go. Rod just lifts up once bolts are removed
View attachment 178819
Like this. Just rest it on top.
View attachment 178820
Then we need to remove the steering rod. This is a 11mm socket, and wrench. Side note... If you have aftermarket fins you'll need to remove this side bolts of the fins to get steering rod bolt out. Again put all bolts back in to not lose them...
View attachment 178823
Fins are 14mm socket as well
View attachment 178824
Once the steering rod bolt is out be sure to not lose these two nylon washers in the hole. One on top and one on bottom...
View attachment 178825
Now we're ready to pull the pump. Take the outside 4 bolts out first. I did inside and it won't come out as whole. Must remove front pump section first. These are 14mm socket
View attachment 178827
This is your Pry point to unseal the 5200 on front pump to rear
View attachment 178828
One or both of these tools make separation of the pump super simple
View attachment 178829
Boom. Comes right apart
View attachment 178830
Once front pump is off your looking at this. Remove the 4 14mm socket bolts, and 1 10mm bolt (already done in this pic)
View attachment 178831
Removing the anode makes it way easier to access port side bolts. 10mm socket
View attachment 178832
There's your 2 14mm and one 10mm bolts that need to come out next. Pay attention to your intake grate. When you have pump off it's a good idea to open this, and clean and inspect. 100% of your engines cooling water comes through here
View attachment 178833
Extensions are key here to get these
View attachment 178834
Pry bar here again. Behind back pump and against transome. Pops right loose
View attachment 178835
From that point just grab the pump and pull it out. It'll come right out. Take it to your bench. Now the fun begins.... These are the needed tools to replace the stock impeller with a Solas upgrade it's their shaft holder....
View attachment 178836
Spline holder slides onto splines at end of shaft, and allow you to cinch it down on a vice. Definitely gonna need the vice. Without it is gonna be Hell
View attachment 178837
Here's your impeller, and this is what we are after. They are reverse threaded. So it comes off clockwise, and it's a real bitch. However, I got a trick for ya..... We used a 1 1/16" wrench for this (26 or 27mm would be better, but we didn't have it). A long 4'pipe to slide over the wrench for leverage would work amazing. We used a 5#sledge hammer instead and beat the wrench. Couple hits and boom she broke free no problem....
View attachment 178838
Here we are impeller is off. Once loose just twist it by hand off the threads. Then slide it off the spine end of shaft. Obviously it needs to come off vice first ?
View attachment 178839
Side by side of stock impeller (right) vs Solas impeller (right). Little shorter, and tighter pitch
View attachment 178840
Here you can see the Solas impeller installation tool. Solas impellers don't have the built in nut like stock impellers do. They supply this tool with the impeller. Counter clockwise install.
View attachment 178841
Finished look with tool removed. From here remove all old sealant from flange (black stuff in pic), and apply new sealant. I used 3m 5200 again
View attachment 178842

Now reinstall is reverse of disassemble. Edit.... It is very very helpful to have a second person when installing rear pump and shaft. Have them on swim deck with arm down clean out hole. They will grab shaft and turn it while your are pushing pump in. It's a bitch to line up by yourself. Super easy with someone turning shaft. DON'T OVER TIGHTEN BOLTS THEY WILL SNAP. It is a yamaha after all. Hopefully this all helped someone further down the road. 5200 takes 72 hours to fully cure. So I'll be water testing Saturday (4 days after install), and will update the results.....

May be a dumb question but after taking the pump housing off the boat, how do you get the impeller out of the housing/wear ring? Like many others, I sucked up a stick and want to get a good look at the impeller and wear ring before putting everything back together...

Thanks in advance!

 

[Hoyt]

May be a dumb question but after taking the pump housing off the boat, how do you get the impeller out of the housing/wear ring? Like many others, I sucked up a stick and want to get a good look at the impeller and wear ring before putting everything back together...

Thanks in advance!
Impeller out of the wear ring is simple.....wear ring housing just slides right off. Now removing wear ring from housing, and removing impeller from shaft..... totally different animal

 

[Corysnyder71]

So as many of you already know I destroyed my stock yamaha 195s impeller and wear ring at the end of the year last season. I beached my boat in a Rocky/shelly beach. Killed my sound system batteries and started the boat. An hour later I came to shut it off, and heard the shells going through impeller. Bad call I know. So I'm starting this thread because of the general lack of knowledge I found on internet when I had this problem. So hopefully this helps someone else out in the future.....
So I was experiencing bad cavitation from a stop to getting on plane. Stock the boat took a couple seconds to get on plane. After problems... A minute or longer. I also had a "pinging" sound coming from the impeller area under load. The more people on board the worse it was. Top speed was dramatically decreased as well from stock 48-50 to now 35 with 2 people.
So I removed my impeller and jet pump from the boat(process described in pics after my story). Took it to my local PWC shop guru to fix. He replaced the wear ring with stock yamaha version, and had my impeller resurfaced at a local place (he was unable to order new at the time). So first test.... 2 people on board.... Cavitation was improved but still not stock, and we could hit 41mph. Fast forward to first family outing of the year..... 6 people on board (normal crew) and the boat would not get on plane. It would not go over 10mph. Clean out plug not set right? Nope.... Impeller for sure.......
So here starts the process of researching and rebuilding yet again......
So I started by finding the OEM Yamaha impeller part number for my 195s (same as sx195, and AR195 BTW) that number is (6GN-R1321-10-00). Good luck finding one BTW. So I then cross referenced it to Solas impeller, and found part number YV-CD 13/18 is the correct impeller for my not modified SVHO yamaha engine. Now this is a different pitch then stock. Stock is 13/20. Yamaha pitched it to have a little cavitation at start to add more top end speed. The 13/18 Solas is too eliminate cavitation, and by doing so you loose a couple mph on the top end. I'm perfectly fine with that....
So let's get to the removal....
This is what you see on back of your boat. I have Cobra jet fins installed here.... View attachment 178817
We are going after these 8 large bolts. They are 14mm socket....
View attachment 178818
First we pull off shifter rod from top of bucket. 10mm socket. One on each side. Pro tip.... Put bolts back in rod once removed so you know where they go. Rod just lifts up once bolts are removed
View attachment 178819
Like this. Just rest it on top.
View attachment 178820
Then we need to remove the steering rod. This is a 11mm socket, and wrench. Side note... If you have aftermarket fins you'll need to remove this side bolts of the fins to get steering rod bolt out. Again put all bolts back in to not lose them...
View attachment 178823
Fins are 14mm socket as well
View attachment 178824
Once the steering rod bolt is out be sure to not lose these two nylon washers in the hole. One on top and one on bottom...
View attachment 178825
Now we're ready to pull the pump. Take the outside 4 bolts out first. I did inside and it won't come out as whole. Must remove front pump section first. These are 14mm socket
View attachment 178827
This is your Pry point to unseal the 5200 on front pump to rear
View attachment 178828
One or both of these tools make separation of the pump super simple
View attachment 178829
Boom. Comes right apart
View attachment 178830
Once front pump is off your looking at this. Remove the 4 14mm socket bolts, and 1 10mm bolt (already done in this pic)
View attachment 178831
Removing the anode makes it way easier to access port side bolts. 10mm socket
View attachment 178832
There's your 2 14mm and one 10mm bolts that need to come out next. Pay attention to your intake grate. When you have pump off it's a good idea to open this, and clean and inspect. 100% of your engines cooling water comes through here
View attachment 178833
Extensions are key here to get these
View attachment 178834
Pry bar here again. Behind back pump and against transome. Pops right loose
View attachment 178835
From that point just grab the pump and pull it out. It'll come right out. Take it to your bench. Now the fun begins.... These are the needed tools to replace the stock impeller with a Solas upgrade it's their shaft holder....
View attachment 178836
Spline holder slides onto splines at end of shaft, and allow you to cinch it down on a vice. Definitely gonna need the vice. Without it is gonna be Hell
View attachment 178837
Here's your impeller, and this is what we are after. They are reverse threaded. So it comes off clockwise, and it's a real bitch. However, I got a trick for ya..... We used a 1 1/16" wrench for this (26 or 27mm would be better, but we didn't have it). A long 4'pipe to slide over the wrench for leverage would work amazing. We used a 5#sledge hammer instead and beat the wrench. Couple hits and boom she broke free no problem....
View attachment 178838
Here we are impeller is off. Once loose just twist it by hand off the threads. Then slide it off the spine end of shaft. Obviously it needs to come off vice first ?
View attachment 178839
Side by side of stock impeller (right) vs Solas impeller (right). Little shorter, and tighter pitch
View attachment 178840
Here you can see the Solas impeller installation tool. Solas impellers don't have the built in nut like stock impellers do. They supply this tool with the impeller. Counter clockwise install.
View attachment 178841
Finished look with tool removed. From here remove all old sealant from flange (black stuff in pic), and apply new sealant. I used 3m 5200 again
View attachment 178842

Now reinstall is reverse of disassemble. Edit.... It is very very helpful to have a second person when installing rear pump and shaft. Have them on swim deck with arm down clean out hole. They will grab shaft and turn it while your are pushing pump in. It's a bitch to line up by yourself. Super easy with someone turning shaft. DON'T OVER TIGHTEN BOLTS THEY WILL SNAP. It is a yamaha after all. Hopefully this all helped someone further down the road. 5200 takes 72 hours to fully cure. So I'll be water testing Saturday (4 days after install), and will update the results.....

Was your wear ring impeller/housing ok? I couldn’t tell from the photos. Im progressively getting more cavitation on my sx195 and have a new Solas sitting on my kitchen table. Wondering if that needs to be done as well.

 

[Hoyt]

Was your wear ring impeller/housing ok? I couldn’t tell from the photos. Im progressively getting more cavitation on my sx195 and have a new Solas sitting on my kitchen table. Wondering if that needs to be done as well.

Yes wear ring was also shot. It'll go first, and then impeller. Very hard to damage your housing so that'll be just fine, but definitely do wear ring when you do impeller.

 

[platinum00]

Out of curiosity, how many hours on the wear ring or impeller. Outside of picking up debris causing damage, is there a certain hour make these typically need replaced?

 

[Hoyt]

Out of curiosity, how many hours on the wear ring or impeller. Outside of picking up debris causing damage, is there a certain hour make these typically need replaced?

No it's normally from trash/debris getting stuck in them. I've seen boats last over 10 years with stock stuff