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2020 242X Audio Line out? (Coax)

rycc449

Jet Boat Lover
Messages
17
Reaction score
10
Points
72
Boat Make
Yamaha
Year
2017
Boat Model
242 Limited S E-Series
Boat Length
24
I'm trying to add a Wetsounds AS-10 subwoofer to my 2020 242X and cannot find a coax line out from the connext. And ideas? The sub is self powered so all I need is audio in.
 
The outputs are on the head unit not the connext. The connext screen and the unit on the swim deck are just remotes for the head unit. The head unit is next to your amps under the seat.
 
You won’t find any RCA outs to connect to, these models have a proprietary plug that repurposed all of the RCA wires into a modular plug straight from the back of the Fusion head unit on the swim deck. You will see this same plug going into your existing amps. Unfortunately, you’re going to have to slice and dice this to make it work.
Just did this on my 19 E to add a dedicated amp for the sub, what a difference!
 
You won’t find any RCA outs to connect to, these models have a proprietary plug that repurposed all of the RCA wires into a modular plug straight from the back of the Fusion head unit on the swim deck. You will see this same plug going into your existing amps. Unfortunately, you’re going to have to slice and dice this to make it work.
Just did this on my 19 E to add a dedicated amp for the sub, what a difference!
Happen to have any advice for wire colors to tap for the low level outputs from the Fusion head unit?
 
Not sure it’s going to be that simple, you’re going to see lots of reds and blacks ?.

On my boat, the lines were all very well labeled at the input on the amp(ch1+, ch1-), I figured out which ones were powering the subs, tapped off of them, and ran the wires into RCA adapters with screw posts, and into the new amp.
 
Not sure it’s going to be that simple, you’re going to see lots of reds and blacks ?.

On my boat, the lines were all very well labeled at the input on the amp(ch1+, ch1-), I figured out which ones were powering the subs, tapped off of them, and ran the wires into RCA adapters with screw posts, and into the new amp.
Ok, thanks, next question....an RCA connector has both an inner signal cable and an outer noise shield copper sheath. Are you just not splicing that outer sheath and running the inner signal wire to your tap? Perhaps this is a basic audio concept I’m not familiar with?
 
Correct. RCA connector is a + and - in the same connector, but this can be separated into two wires, which is how our boats are set up. You can do it how you described, but I found it easier to keep it 2-wire all the way to the amp, and used a connector like this:

 
Are you adding speakers or using the amp to power existing?

I only ask because in the course of looking into mine, I found that the factory amps are probably using only half the capability of the speakers due to how they are tuned, adjusting bass up on the head unit doesn’t even have an effect since it’s all through the amps. Added a dedicated 300W amp to the sub and it really cranks.
A shame that the wet sounds amps are locked down the way that they are.
 
Like others have said, the head unit is the Fusion radio on the back. You do NOT have to slice or splice here. Simply buy this harness and replace the one that is back there.

 
Part number is #010-12812-01
 
But then the existing amps won’t have a signal, correct? I’m looking for how to get a proper low level signal AND maintain stock proprietary wetsounds amps.

Like others have said, the head unit is the Fusion radio on the back. You do NOT have to slice or splice here. Simply buy this harness and replace the one that is back there.

 
But then the existing amps won’t have a signal, correct? I’m looking for how to get a proper low level signal AND maintain stock proprietary wetsounds amps.
Gotcha..... I jump to conclusions. You would be correct
 
Use rca splitters.
 
‘18 + don’t use rca’s. Stupid proprietary design between Fusion and Wetsounds and Yamaha. Amp settings are not end user adjustable.

Use rca splitters.
 
You can tap into the wires at the OEM WS amp. Also you will be better of running 1 new amp to power both subs at once. The DSP limits bass output the higher you turn up the volume. The stock WS HTX -6 is only puting out 300w at best to the sub. I will get you a pic of the wires you need.
Edit did not see you were using a AS-10 subwoofer ignore the 1 amp for 2 subs
 
Last edited:
@Troch1 it looks like you and I are having the same problem, I'm not looking to replace the stock equipment, just add a self powered Wetsounds sub. It's the definition of plug and play, well it used to be. ?
 
Ok here they are. They are balanced outputs from the head unit. You will see a small red & small black going into the same pin this is R+ ch5. The L+ is the same way but is white ch6. Look at the diagram to see your grounds for ch5 & ch6
 

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Sorry balanced input/ outputs use 3 wires per channel. Two positive and one negative. You can hook the two positives together as they did
 
Also it is up to you but putting a sub inside any closed compartment is not the best idea. If the cone is not in the listening area you cut it's out put greatly. Like standing next to a car with subs in the trunk. You hear all of the buzzing but not great bass. Best is to put a sub beside the driver's seat as it is on the other side. But each his own
 
@jacoviii thanks for all the help and pics. I hear you,your logic makes sense to me. I've had this sub in my last two boats and it performs very well in a comparment. It seems Wetsounds recommends different for some reason.


"The physics of sound tell us that any subwoofer increases its output when allowed to “load” into a wall, corner, or some other structure."
 
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