• Welcome to Jetboaters.net!

    We are delighted you have found your way to the best Jet Boaters Forum on the internet! Please consider Signing Up so that you can enjoy all the features and offers on the forum. We have members with boats from all the major manufacturers including Yamaha, Seadoo, Scarab and Chaparral. We don't email you SPAM, and the site is totally non-commercial. So what's to lose? IT IS FREE!

    Membership allows you to ask questions (no matter how mundane), meet up with other jet boaters, see full images (not just thumbnails), browse the member map and qualifies you for members only discounts offered by vendors who run specials for our members only! (It also gets rid of this banner!)

    free hit counter

5.6 or 4 qt oil change

Redwhiteandblue

Active Member
Messages
30
Reaction score
28
Points
27
Boat Make
Yamaha
Year
2021
Boat Model
AR
Boat Length
25
Hey all, planning planning on doing my first oil change on my 2021 ar 250. My oil change kits are only 4 qt each....is there a spec change or is this a typo?
Thanks!Screenshot_20210527-065307_Chrome.jpg
Screenshot_20210527-065307_Chrome.jpg
 
You won't be draining all of the oil unless your doing a complete change, you'll be sucking a majority out of it. According to the literature you'll be using 3.91qts with a filter change.
Check this link out for the basics on an oil change
https://jetboaters.net/faq/#faq-18
 
I like to add what I took out. So far I have only been able to extract 3.6 qts or so if i recall correctly the last time I did it to my Waverunner(same exact engine). I keep my jugs from previous oil changes and measure how much I have taken out and replace the same amount. Keeps me from overfilling it.

As @Babin Farms mentioned you will never get out all the oil using the normal methods so the 5.6 qt's is for a totally dry engine.
 
Which kit / filter did you end up using? I'm about to order for my 10 hour on my 2021 252 as well!
 
Adding what you take out is not truly optimal, imho by itself. You should check the oil level after warming to determine if you have low, good or too much oil, first. Then using that as a base line, add oil back in, then check warm again and bring up to the optimal level, which has been determined is just less than half way for performance. Of course you should level the engines as much as possible, in water is best place to check. Oil levels can grow with possible water intrusion or it can foam up a bit. Overtime if you keep replacing what you took out it could be too much.
 
You won't be draining all of the oil unless your doing a complete change, you'll be sucking a majority out of it. According to the literature you'll be using 3.91qts with a filter change.
Check this link out for the basics on an oil change
https://jetboaters.net/faq/#faq-18
That's what I was hoping to hear. I've read nothing but 4 qts (kit) and people extracting anywhere from 3-3.75 qt. I knew some was left in the motor dye to the nature of the process. Just wasn't expecting over 20% retention of old oil. Thank you
 
I like to add what I took out. So far I have only been able to extract 3.6 qts or so if i recall correctly the last time I did it to my Waverunner(same exact engine). I keep my jugs from previous oil changes and measure how much I have taken out and replace the same amount. Keeps me from overfilling it.

As @Babin Farms mentioned you will never get out all the oil using the normal methods so the 5.6 qt's is for a totally dry engine.
This is my plan also, followed by checking to verify.
 
Adding what you take out is not truly optimal, imho by itself. You should check the oil level after warming to determine if you have low, good or too much oil, first. Then using that as a base line, add oil back in, then check warm again and bring up to the optimal level, which has been determined is just less than half way for performance. Of course you should level the engines as much as possible, in water is best place to check. Oil levels can grow with possible water intrusion or it can foam up a bit. Overtime if you keep replacing what you took out it could be too much.
Agree 100%. Always good to cross check. I check oil each trip to monitor.
 
I did this last week or so. One engine got 3.6L out, the other got barely 3L. I put back in what I took out. I didn't have time to warm up and check again. When I go out again this weekend I'll check after warming and add some more. Easy peasy my friend. Don't forget the spark plugs! Oh and the filter can make a mess. Get an oil absorbing pad.
 
I changed my 212x last weekend. I got over 3.5 quarts out before removing the filter on each. Looked closer to 4 than 3.5
I put back very close to 4 quarts in each with a new filter.

The 212x has two NOT supercharged 1.8 engines. Not sure what yours has.
 
Any issues with over filling? I just dumped all 4qts in mine.
 
I agree with the statements above. Use what you took out as a baseline to put back in. You'll likely need to add a little more as the dry oil filter will hold some oil once you start it up. If you change the oil while it's on the trailer, make sure the tongue is level as an uneven trailer will throw your readings off. You can also lower the tongue to get some extra oil out of it if you're vacuuming it out.

It's also always a good idea to check the oil in the water when the boat is theoretically level too. I always do that once the engines warm up.
 
Thank you all for the tips. I'm glad the 4 qt kits will be sufficient. Last thing I wanted was to only be able to do one engine and not have enough oil for the second motor
 
I changed my 212x last weekend. I got over 3.5 quarts out before removing the filter on each. Looked closer to 4 than 3.5
I put back very close to 4 quarts in each with a new filter.

The 212x has two NOT supercharged 1.8 engines. Not sure what yours has.
Same motors!
 
I just did mine. 1.8 engines and got out and put back in 3.9 quarts (with filter change). I took it out on the water and ran up to temp and checked both dip sticks and they both read exactly half way between the full and add marks.
 
If I had to change the oil on my boat I’d have a couple fumoto drain valves plumbed into a 12v gear pump. Easier, cleaner and you can drain all the oil.
 
Just changed mine. Level was good before changing. Got 4 quarts out so I put 4 back. Level was good again, just cleaner ?
 
If you change the oil while it's on the trailer, make sure the tongue is level as an uneven trailer will throw your readings off. You can also lower the tongue to get some extra oil out of it if you're vacuuming it out.
Actually for the 1.8L engines you want the boat/engines to be level, not the trailer, with the engines off. For my boat, I found the trailer tongue is slightly low to get the engines "perfectly level". I have a 10 inch level I use to verify the engines are level before I pump out and refill.

For the TR-1 engines in a 210, you can check them on land with the engines level, or while floating in the water. I would check using a level on any of them though.
 
Last edited:
Always level the engines not the trailer or boat. Warming the engines allows the oil to flow better. However, I have always just run the engines for about 30 seconds to suspend any debris in the oil and then use my oil extractor. This takes a little longer to extract and it will seem like you get everything out right at about 3.5-3.7 qt. But if you let it sit another 15 minutes and extract again, you’ll get more. I have pulled 4qt out of each engine like clockwork every oil change not including the filter.
 
Back
Top