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Boat Stuff $550 - Set of 3500' altitude pitched impellers

sysinu

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I have an extra set of screws that I purchased to be used at Lake Powell and I find myself boating a lot more at 6000' altitude so I've been using my high altitude screws much more and don't need my LP screws collecting dust. Figured someone could use them.

Screws are from Impro's, pitched by Impro's.

Purchased new from Impro's for 800$ + 24$ shipping. Selling for less than that. Impellers are pretty much new, used only in fresh water, serviced only by SouthValley Motorsports in Utah.



 

blacksapphirez

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it says Impeller Model OEM... is it repitched OEM impellers?

what is 3500' (i understand it is meant to use in 3500' altitude) but is there an actual pitch #?

and what is the benefit for people at Sea Level?
 

swatski

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Those are repitched OEM for 1.8l.
 

sysinu

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it says Impeller Model OEM... is it repitched OEM impellers?

what is 3500' (i understand it is meant to use in 3500' altitude) but is there an actual pitch #?

and what is the benefit for people at Sea Level?
I think you would actually have a negative effect at sea level. It's adjusted for higher altitude to have a better holeshot, time to plane, etc for altitudes higher than sea level. Most impellers for Utah are 4500' altitude. My high altitudes are 6500' altitude, etc. I don't know an actual pitch #, I just know they are re-pitched to be optimized at 3500' altitude for the Yamaha 1.8L engine. In talking with Impro's, they like the OEM's more than the other brands.
 

swatski

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sysinu

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No bites so far or feedback on price so I suggested an offer price of $550. Pretty much brand new screws.
 

swatski

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No bites so far or feedback on price so I suggested an offer price of $550. Pretty much brand new screws.
That is a great price ($275 a piece) no doubt for a pair custom pitched impellers. Great deal for someone who needs those with that exact pitch. The new OEMs can be have fairly inexpensively, if no repitch is required. Repitch alone, done right, is MORE expensive than a stock screw (as in stock OEM impeller for 1.8 twin boats). I would certainly jump on your offer for spares if I were at altitude (I'm at about 600' so I run stock).

In keeping track of the best sources for stock NOT-CUSTOM repitched OEM, if think @dan144k currently holds the lead:
Ordered up the parts.
Went with the precision marine impeller housing with removable plastic ring. and stock impeller from procaliber.com.
Boat runs so parts will get here eventually.

yamahasportsplaza $160 plus shipping
partsshark $154 plus shipping
procaliber $149 FREE shippping ****
 

sysinu

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That is a great price ($275 a piece) no doubt for a pair custom pitched impellers. Great deal for someone who needs those with that exact pitch. The new OEMs can be have fairly inexpensively, if no repitch is required. Repitch alone, done right, is MORE expensive than a stock screw (as in stock OEM impeller for 1.8 twin boats). I would certainly jump on your offer for spares if I were at altitude (I'm at about 600' so I run stock).

In keeping track of the best sources for stock NOT-CUSTOM repitched OEM, if think @dan144k currently holds the lead:
Thank you for this, it helps me to understand the competitive landscape. Sounds like I need to find someone who needs new screws for mid-high altitude :). Worst case, I have an extra set of screws sitting in my office closet.
 

swatski

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Thank you for this, it helps me to understand the competitive landscape. Sounds like I need to find someone who needs new screws for mid-high altitude :). Worst case, I have an extra set of screws sitting in my office closet.
That works, as long as you can assure your coworkers those are not some medieval armaments, LOL.
 

sysinu

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That works, as long as you can assure your coworkers those are not some medieval armaments, LOL.
LOL! All of the co-workers in my "office" know these are impellers for our boat :). I work out of a home office when I am not traveling.

That said, maybe I could put them on a pike to ward off unwanted wildlife from my backyard grass!
 

Bryan L

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Thought I'd pick your brain a bit. I still have my boat set up with stock screws. We boat mostly Pineview, Willard and Bear Lake. How much improvement have you seen with the repitched vs stock? One thing to note, I was out on Pineview about a week ago and finally ran the boat at WOT on glass to see how much speed was scrubbed off at altitude. WOW! I was barely breaking 6600rpm. Just me, the dog and a half tank of ethanol free gas. I'm not looking for top end as much as I would like to gain back some of the performance. I read a few comments from people who have deleted some of the intake restrictions and used different screw pitches, like @Williamsone46 did with his 2015. (Almost bought his boat)
 
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sysinu

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Thought I'd pick your brain a bit. I still have my boat set up with stock screws. We boat mostly Pineview, Willard and Bear Lake. How much improvement have you seen with the repitched vs stock? One thing to note, I was out on Pineview about a week ago and finally ran the boat at WOT on glass to see how much speed was scrubbed off at altitude. WOW! I was barely breaking 6600rpm. Just me, the dog and a half tank of ethanol free gas. I'm not looking for top end as much as I would like to gain back some of the performance. I read a few comments from people who have deleted some of the intake restrictions and used different screw pitches, like @Williamsone46 did with his 2015. (Almost bought his boat)
Bryan, did you buy your boat from Adam or SouthValley? If so they probably would have repitched your screws to 4500' altitude. Every time I go to their service dept there is a line of 4500' altitude screws on their window before going back into their shop.

If yours are stock OEM and you have a warranty, SouthValley might be able to get your screws repitched by Impro's to 4500' altitude for free. That's where my high altitudes came from, but mine are pitched for much higher. Willard and Pineview are lower altitude. I think Bear Lake is pretty high altitude. I live across the street from Rockport, so I'm up 6558' at the house and about 6000' on the lake with how low it is right now.

Adam always said he would rather run stock screws with no ribbon... I politely disagree, even on Utah Lake, I would have run with at least a little higher altitude screw. I had really good results with the 3500' screw and ribbon delete at UL and BL. Up here, the 3500' screw is just too much pitch if I have the boat loaded with people and am popping 2 skiiers or wakeboarders. That and Rockport is so small that if I hit WOT, I'll be on the other end of the lake in a minute (or so it feels like) ;-).


Is it 6600 RPM on both screws? Is that at Willard and Pineview or at Bear Lake? I would expect that at bear lake, but not Willard unless you have default screws. 6600 is low, as I'm sure you know. If you pull your ribbon and replace it with an insert (and then of course put in an approved flame arrestor for anti-backfire) you might change that 6600 to 6680... but you're not going to reclaim 500RPM, I don't think, without a repitch.

I have done both as well (ribbon delete / flame arrestor) and re-pitched screws. If I want to, I can blow out my holeshot, but I'm not so young anymore that I go stop to WOT. Unless of course it's just for a moment to drench some kids on a tube. Also, I think the ribbon is a different size or something on newer boats (mine's a 2014). Not sure if the 2016's housing for the ribbon is alluminum or what ever, but I've seen some posts on that lately... if that is the case, be weary that the part numbers in my videos might not apply to your ribbon delete.


I'm probably going to be dropping my boat off at SVMS on Friday for shrinkwrap and winterization. It's getting about that time, maybe you can have them warranty re-pitch your screws to 4500' for free. If not, the repitch can be pretty expensive.
 

Bryan L

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Thanks for taking the time for such a lengthy reply. I'm mostly at Pineview (~4900) and Bear Lake (~5990). The impellers are still stock. With the loss of power due to altitude, I've been curious about a high altitude pitch adjustment to bring back some of that bite. Last week was the first time that I have been able to stretch her legs and play with the hole shot. There seemed to be a decent amount of cavitation going WOT out of a stop.

Thanks for the tip to contact SVMS. I didn't buy my boat from them, but will see if they can get them repitched under warranty.

As far as the ribbon delete, I'll hunt around for the right insert and pick up the k&n style filters. Sounds like a nice fall project.

Thanks again for the info!
 

sysinu

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Of course, that's the point of this forum, :) information sharing.

Surprising that you got cavitation with sea level screws in higher altitude. I think you'll get a little cavitation... for example, at Powell, if I WOT from stop with my high altitude screws the boat will leap forward quickly and then the acceleration band is lost (so jump forward to go slow). So in that case, I am having cavitation inside the pump. This is what I call "blowing out my holeshot." This is not the same as having the engine rev really high and then drop down in rev's as you accelerate through lower speeds until you hit ~30 to get to a point where you're getting back up to initial WOT RPM's. Most likely you are talking about the initial high-rev, but not a loss in acceleration.

The ribbon delete is pretty easy, just wear gloves :). I bashed my knuckles up pretty bad... were I to do it again, I would have worn gloves.


Want me to ask them about re-pitching your screws when I am there today?
 

Bryan L

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Want me to ask them about re-pitching your screws when I am there today?
That would be great!

Decent amount of cavitation may have been a slight overstatement. When punching it from a stop, you felt the vibration and some slight noise. Truth be told, this my first experience with an internal drive system. I grew up on the east coast with stern drives and sailboats. What I felt may have been normal.
 

sysinu

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That would be great!

Decent amount of cavitation may have been a slight overstatement. When punching it from a stop, you felt the vibration and some slight noise. Truth be told, this my first experience with an internal drive system. I grew up on the east coast with stern drives and sailboats. What I felt may have been normal.
Will do, I'll let you know what they say.

What you experienced is normal. Wait until you get a piece of wood in the screw (not jamming it, just not getting shot out the back). Then you will know what "decent amount of cavitation" is :).
 

Bryan L

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Ha! I've been lucky to have not sucked anything in yet. When it comes, I'll be thinking about this post. Thanks again for all your help!
 

sysinu

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Ha! I've been lucky to have not sucked anything in yet. When it comes, I'll be thinking about this post. Thanks again for all your help!
It sounds like the ability to get the screws repitched for free is situational on Yamaha approving it within warranty. So it sounds a little case-by-case basis, which doesn't make sense to me. I didn't get a definitive Yes or No from service on this, best you contact them directly and figure out what the options are. Sorry for the not stellar news, but the good part of this is that it's not a "no" answer.
 

Bryan L

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It sounds like the ability to get the screws repitched for free is situational on Yamaha approving it within warranty. So it sounds a little case-by-case basis, which doesn't make sense to me. I didn't get a definitive Yes or No from service on this, best you contact them directly and figure out what the options are. Sorry for the not stellar news, but the good part of this is that it's not a "no" answer.
No problem. I appreciate you asking. I will be reaching out to them and ask. You have given me a lot of useful information. Thanks again!!
 

Bryan L

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Sysinu, Thanks again for all your help. I was able to talk to SVM and it looks like it is a possibility to have them repitched for 5000' under warranty. I also picked up the RIVA intake spacers and K&N filters. One question I have concerns the orientation of the RIVA spacer. I watched your video on Youtube (great BTW), I believe you indicated inserting the spacer with the arrow pointing the motor (with air flow and how every other uses the arrow to determine air flow) and not to the throttle body like the instructions. Am I missing something? I noticed these instructions use an older boat for reference.
 
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