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ACR Starter Isolation Wiring?

Discussion in 'Yamaha AR230, SX230, SR230 and 232 Limited / S' started by CrankyGypsy, Mar 18, 2017.

  1. CrankyGypsy

    CrankyGypsy Jet Boat Addict

    Messages:
    282
    Location:
    Tampa, FL 33615
    Ratings:
    +210 / 13
    Boat Make:
    Boatless
    Year:
    NA
    Boat Model:
    Other
    Boat Length:
    NA
    re-wiring the boat with a Blue Sea Dual Circuit Plus (both batteries on, but kept separate - no more flipping back and forth) and SI-ACR. i think i have the wiring figured out for Starter Isolation to the ACR so both ignitions will signal the ACR individually (but each signal won't "spill over" to the other ignition and relay). just want someone to confirm for me which wire to tap to the Diode Bridge: i'm thinking the Brown wire coming from the ignition...

    ACR starter isolation (solenoid is aka relay).JPG

    AR230ign.JPG
    7: Ignition Switch/Start Switch
    N/A: Starter Relay/Solenoid is in upper-right corner

    AR230sta.JPG
     
  2. CrankyGypsy

    CrankyGypsy Jet Boat Addict

    Messages:
    282
    Location:
    Tampa, FL 33615
    Ratings:
    +210 / 13
    Boat Make:
    Boatless
    Year:
    NA
    Boat Model:
    Other
    Boat Length:
    NA
    ok, found the topic already discussed, but would still like some confirmation on a few things.
    seems we do not need to use the ACR's optional starter isolation on our boats, right? pros/cons? if we choose to, do we need the Diode Bridge?

    https://jetboaters.net/threads/blue-seas-add-a-battery-kit-questions.1645/

    using @txav8r diagram, i believe i want to change the ACR connections to the load side since i have a dual bank charger?
    plus, i had originally planned to do what Blue Sea advises and connect the ACR to the Batteries, along with inline fuses. i know Mel eliminated these fuses and instead ran the leads between the ACR and Switch (which i am going to do now) - so could i also eliminate the fuse Blue Sea recommends between the Switch and my Blue Sea Accessory Fuse Panel? my positive wire for this is only 1' long.

    BlueSeaAddaBatteryKit.jpg
     
    Last edited: Mar 19, 2017
  3. CrankyGypsy

    CrankyGypsy Jet Boat Addict

    Messages:
    282
    Location:
    Tampa, FL 33615
    Ratings:
    +210 / 13
    Boat Make:
    Boatless
    Year:
    NA
    Boat Model:
    Other
    Boat Length:
    NA
    i somehow skipped right by this diagram (was on my phone when going through the above thread), which gave me the answers i needed:

    Nauti Dawg Electrical System.jpg

    (thanks Mel)
     
  4. txav8r

    txav8r Jetboaters Admiral Staff Member Administrator

    Messages:
    6,384
    Location:
    Lake Ray Roberts, Texas
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    +2,968 / 21
    Boat Make:
    Boatless
    Year:
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    Other
    Boat Length:
    NA
    I was out mid pocket, glad you found what you needed! I actually spoke to the head tech at blue sea, he told me their diagrams show more fuse protection from liability standpoint and larger electrical systems. He agreed it was way overkill. Also, the same for starter isolation, just not needed for our small and low drag engines.
     
    • Like Like x 1
  5. Scott Taylor

    Scott Taylor New Member

    Messages:
    5
    Ratings:
    +0 / 0
    Boat Make:
    Yamaha
    Year:
    2008
    Boat Model:
    AR
    Boat Length:
    23
    Hi all,
    I too am in the middle of adding the "add a battery" and unfortunately already purchased the Diode per another thread I had seen. I see based on your comments it's not needed, I was trying to stop the "popping" coming through when I crank the 2nd one. Since I have it already, can someone show me where the starter isolation wire is? I cant make heads or tails of the schematic above vs where it is in the boat. Even the ACR suggests to have the starter wired to it right?
     

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