Adding LED Tower Lights 2016 AR240

[J-RAD]

I bought some LED lights to add cabin lighting to the tower of my 2016 AR240 at the recommendation of @Jaylex, thanks! I thought I'd share details of my install with the group in case someone else wants to give it a go.

Parts list:

• 4 PACK: 3/4" Recessed LED Lights for Marker/Signal (White)
  • https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01JK1AGT4?psc=1&ref=yo_pop_mb_pd_title
  • 12V+-
  • Requires 3/4" hole
  • Dimmable

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• 30ft 22 AWG tin-plated wire
  • https://www.amazon.com/uxcell-Extension-Parallel-Plated-Copper/dp/B07F5XQVQZ/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1540178537&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=22+AWG+tin-plated+wire&dpPl=1&dpID=51IX3b-TusL&ref=plSrch&th=1&psc=1
  • Tin-plated recommended for corrosion resistance

​

• Pack of 12 Low Voltage T-Type 20/22AWG Solderless Wire Connectors
  • https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B07114RK67?psc=1&ref=yo_pop_mb_pd_title&th=1

​

Installation:
Following @Jaylex I decided to use 3 of the 4 marker LED's on the tower connecting them to the factory courtesy lights. I then took it 1 step further and installed the 4th in the engine compartment. Here's the step by step.

Step 1 - Decide which side of your tower you want to run the wire up. With 4 tower speaker wires and the tower nav light wires all congesting the starboard side I had little choice but to use the port side.

Problem 1 - The port side had no hole drilled thru the underlying hull where the mounting bracket wire chase hole is.
Solution - Rather than somehow dealing with the difficulty of drilling a hole from the top down, which is nearly inaccessible. I decided to locate and drill from the underside. Measuring from the top I was able to determine I needed to drill a hole roughly 3-1/4" forward of the stop-cable slot. I contorted my body down under the seat with a tape measure, flashlight, and a drill. I decided on a 1/2" bit, as it was a fair amount smaller than the hole in the bracket, giving me some extra fudge factor, but plenty big enough for passing wires. Using the tape measure and the two mounting bolts as a reference I bravely eyeballed where the hole should be and drilled my hole. In the following picture, the small hole with the white wire hanging thru is the one.
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Step 2 - Remove the courtesy light nearest the side of the tower you plan to run your wires and clip your first connector on to it. (Try to use the same order + and - on each connector.)

Step 3 - connect your wire (paying attention to the order and using a wire snake pull the wire thru the courtesy light hole to the rear seat storage and then up the base of the tower.

Step 4 - Snake the wire up the large diameter tube of the tower. At the top of the tower remove the small plug and pull the wire thru. (Pro tip - have a second person feeding the snake forward and back up the base of the tube. My 4yo helped me. I was able to use a small allen wrench to hook the end of the snake thru the hole and persuade it out the top of the tower.)

Step 5 - Erect tower, then locate the desired light locations. Due to my speakers I chose to locate my lights in the smaller rear tube of my tower to maximize light output and to avoid hitting any speaker wires in the other tube. There is a passage from the large tube thru the cross member to the smaller tube. I carefully eyeballed the center point of the tower below the anchor light and measured equal distances to the left and right. Eyball the very bottom of the tube as best as you can and mark them.
Step 6 - With the holes marked proceed to drill. (Pro tips - drill smaller pilot holes to start. I chose to use a stepped metal drilling bit to reach the 3/4" diameter. It was fairly easy, although I did have to grind off the first 2 steps to avoid the opposite end of the tube as well as the anchor light wiring. Use short bursts while under the anchor light to ensure your avoiding the wires.) Check the fit of the light in each hole prior to snaking the wire to any of them.

Step 7 - With the holes drilled and lights dry fitted proceed to snaking the wire thru from the large tube to the new center hole in the smaller tube. Then thread it over to the farthest hole on one side or the other (shown in previous pic). Place the connector for the first light.

Step 8 - Turn on your courtesy lights from your CoNext screen. Check that each light is working and the polarity of the wires are being placed correctly in the connector by touching the raw ends of the lead wires to barbs in the connector. When you determine it works and the polarity, trim the wires as desired and clamp them in the connector. (Pro tip - Tape up the connector and wires for added protection and to avoid rattle in the tube.)
Step 9 - Fish wire back to middle hole and connect a light using the same process as in step 8 and continue on to the 3rd hole and light.
Step 10 - Hydrate and stare in pride at the glorious illumination...

Step 11 - Call your significant other out to have a look so they can roll their eyes at it seemingly unimpressed and proceed to say, "Great! What's for dinner?"

Engine Compartment light-
My foam sound insulation just so happened to have a notch in it in the perfect position above the port engine. The back side of this spot boarders the port side locker and even more fortunately there's a gap between the engine bay wall and the interior lining of the storage locker. I drilled a 3/4" hole for the light and a smaller hole slightly down between the 2 pieces of foam. I fished the wires in thru the install hole and back out the smaller one. I then spliced a new wire back into my new tower light wire under the rear seat storage with a connector. I then proceed to fish the wire over into the engine bay. Up thru the seam in the 2 pieces of foam and used a final connector to the end of the wire and light.

 

[Bluewater272]

LOL at Step 11. Every. Single. Time.

 

[swatski]

@J-RAD what I great writeup!!!
Do those dim?

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[J-RAD]

@J-RAD what I great writeup!!!
Do those dim?

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Thanks! They do dim.

 

[swatski]

Thanks! They do dim.

Damn.
Drilling more holes in my tower...
Thanks, @J-RAD...

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[Mainah]

Great write up and install.

Step 11 - Call your significant other out to have a look so they can roll their eyes at it seemingly unimpressed and proceed to say, "Great! What's for dinner?"

I have come to think my wife is impressed with many of my projects but just does not show it to me and instead shows more appreciation for me cleaning the house and cooking dinner. Smart.

 

[Jaylex]

@J-RAD glad I could help out.

Having lights in the tower is mandatory based on how much night boating I do.

My 2011 242 LS had tower lights and I was determined to add some once I got the AR last year.

The coolest part is being able to dim it all of the connext screen. I think there is an extra step we can take to get them on a separate switch.

On the 242 LS they have a switch for the tower lights in connext, so Im thinking if I switch the connect screen to that of a 242LS, and locate the relay for the tower lights and courtesy lights and separate the two I should be able to use them independently, but being able to dim them right now makes this low on my list of mods....but would be super cool!

This was my second favorite mod Ive done behind the custom 6 gal shower. Nice to have light when you need it.

Great write-up!

 

[J-RAD]

Honestly, up until now, I've hardly ever used my courtesy lights... maybe a couple of times while camping... Flashlights were the better option. You can bet I'll be using them now though. I'm loving how it turned out. The fact that it's linked to the factory system is legit! A few more switches would be cool, but I'm not sure I see it as a necessity. I could see myself potentially putting a switch to the engine compartment light, but then again I'm not sure it's worth the trouble...? I'm not sure I'll have them on long enough to care and there's no harm in having it on.

I love a challenging and successful project. I'd say I'm a mechanically minded person and only know enough about electrical stuff to get myself in trouble. I don't mind making holes in things all that much, I do it nearly everyday building and installing cabinets, but I find electrical suff to be a bit intimidating... So when I accomplish something like these lights that involve both some drilling and wiring it's very gratifying. Same with the stereo upgrade and ridesteady. It's hard to pick one thing that's my favorite. I think my one conclusion is that my boat is probably my favorite waste both time and money.

 

[Minh Nguyen]

Very nice guys! If I do end up keeping my boat this is a mod that I'll definitely do. This is a great forum!!!

 

[J-RAD]

Very nice guys! If I do end up keeping my boat this is a mod that I'll definitely do. This is a great forum!!!

It is an excellent forum! I hope things work out however you need them to with the selling of your boat. If or when it does we hope to see you back here soon!

 

[Chip F.]

If anyone is looking for another way to dim lights by not going through the Connext:
https://newwiremarine.com/product/deckhand-dimmer-12v-6a/

 

[J-RAD]

Just an FYI for everyone considering this install. I had a question asked of me by a member planning a similar install with these lights on his '17 Limited S tower (slightly different tower, but similar construction from the same manufacturer). He was considering installing the lights in the flat cross members on the tower and was curious whether or not those cross members had the same thru access as the center. I hadn't thought to check during my install, but given the fact I installed my lights inline with those members. I was able to hop in the boat this morning to pop out one of the lights to scope things out. Checking visually, and probing with the end of my wire snake and pinky finger I was able to verify that on the AR tower they do not have the same thru access.

 

[Neutron]

Just an FYI for everyone considering this install. I had a question asked of me by a member planning a similar install with these lights on his '17 Limited S tower (slightly different tower, but similar construction from the same manufacturer). He was considering installing the lights in the flat cross members on the tower and was curious whether or not those cross members had the same thru access as the center. I hadn't thought to check during my install, but given the fact I installed my lights inline with those members. I was able to hop in the boat this morning to pop out one of the lights to scope things out. Checking visually, and probing with the end of my wire snake and pinky finger I was able to verify that on the AR tower they do not have the same thru access.
View attachment 84898

I checked mine as well when i installed my blue tower lights. The 2 outer struts dont go though to the front or the rear tube like the center does

 

[Levi Weatherford]

I am the said member that asked J-RAD to verify this for me. I surely appreciate him looking because it saved me a major headache and having to plug two useless holes in the tower. Anyway, I started this mod this afternoon and was able to get all the lights installed on the rear bar just like he did. All I can say is they look great. They look like they came from the factory that way. All I have to do now is install a switch so that I can run down the lake with the courtesy lights on but not have the over head tower lights on. Oh yeah, I also installed the fourth led inside the engine compartment. This has been my favorite mod so far. Thanks J-RAD for the write up and help.

 

[J-RAD]

I am the said member that asked J-RAD to verify this for me. I surely appreciate him looking because it saved me a major headache and having to plug two useless holes in the tower. Anyway, I started this mod this afternoon and was able to get all the lights installed on the rear bar just like he did. All I can say is they look great. They look like they came from the factory that way. All I have to do now is install a switch so that I can run down the lake with the courtesy lights on but not have the over head tower lights on. Oh yeah, I also installed the fourth led inside the engine compartment. This has been my favorite mod so far. Thanks J-RAD for the write up and help.

More than welcome! Post up what you end up doing for the switch(s) when you get it wrapped up. You guys and your switches are going to make me feel like I quit half way thru...

 

[Paul Edwards]

@J-RAD,

I’m looking to add the JL Audio LED caps that can be added to my existing tower speakers. I see your mod here and the price it took to execute. Looks legit. The first image you have showing the lights on at night, they look like they really light up the boat. Is there any other ambient light from your car port light or camera flash? I’m going with your mode if they are actually as bright as the picture shows. Great write up, thank you.

 

[J-RAD]

@J-RAD,

I’m looking to add the JL Audio LED caps that can be added to my existing tower speakers. I see your mod here and the price it took to execute. Looks legit. The first image you have showing the lights on at night, they look like they really light up the boat. Is there any other ambient light from your car port light or camera flash? I’m going with your mode if they are actually as bright as the picture shows. Great write up, thank you.

@Paul Edwards, there's no additional lighting being used at the time that pic read taken. They really are as bright as they appear.

 

[Jaylex]

These lights are awesome, I actually keep mine dimmed when on as they are very bright, provides a ton of light.

 

[Cisco]

J -Rad thank to you i dicide to do everything you did I put two lights on my tower and put one on the engine bay the last will be inside the front storage space

 

[J-RAD]

J -Rad thank to you i dicide to do everything you did I put two lights on my tower and put one on the engine bay the last will be inside the front storage space

Rad! Its a fun project, isn't it? I can't wait to see his many mosquitoes I can attract while camping this summer! Lol!