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Anodes - when to replace?

Farny

Jetboaters Captain
Messages
1,144
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965
Points
207
Location
Spring TX
Boat Make
Centurion
Year
2022
Boat Model
Other
Boat Length
23
Anyone have a rule of thumb on replacing anodes?
 
It’s my understanding at 50%. That’s what was recommended to me.
 
It’s my understanding at 50%. That’s what was recommended to me.
Thanks - if that’s the case I am a long way from replacement.
 
Thanks - if that’s the case I am a long way from replacement.
Not sure what type of metal ours are made of. Could be zinc, aluminum, or maganese. It depends on what type of water you boat in. I have no idea what mine are made of. If you’re in salt water, you may want to check which ones you should have. I’ve heard they can wear pretty quickly in salt water.
 
Not sure what type of metal ours are made of. Could be zinc, aluminum, or maganese. It depends on what type of water you boat in. I have no idea what mine are made of. If you’re in salt water, you may want to check which ones you should have. I’ve heard they can wear pretty quickly in salt water.
Fresh water only so far
 
this is something you can do to make your boat last longer.

50 % is what the manual says. I am second BO for my FSH210. PO had boat in FL brackish water 50 hours per year. He would put in on Thursday or Friday and pull it out on Monday. the anodes were above 60-70% but I replaced them anyway to reset the clock. I also own jet skis that the previous owner was not religious in the flushing of salt water. The amount of dissimilar metals{ Aluminum SS steel, etc) and on/off grounding contributes to corrosion if not flushed/rinsed off/ left unchecked. Notice how Yamaha added a grounding cable to the reverse cable bracket in 2020. 2020 fsh 210 jet unit.png
Corrosion is no joke and Anodes are something you would rather be safe and replace now rather than wait. Plus if you order now it will probably be in backorder status for a few months due to the shortage of parts.





Water on the Potomac has a lot less salinity at my location, so I expect longer life.. That being said..... after winter this year the steering cables are shot and have nice pitting underneath the locknutssteering cable end , bolt, and lock nut on threads used for adjusting the cable.jpg. cant see it in the photo but underneath the steering cable end it is quite corroded.
They were frozen but I used the pressurized method..... clamp on reinforced tubing fill with oil, put Schrader fitting shopping.pngon the end and pump up to 70 psi every day until oil moves..... I can use boat but Steering is still tight. there is definitely some corrosion that went on due to constant immersion in water with salt...... Shore lander trailer the back axle brakes were rusted solid. Had to replace the disk and calipers this year (upgraded to stainless so will have less issues over time). Leaf springs are coming apart due to all of the time exposed to salt water but they will be ok since the boat is now on a dock lift all year.

I have new steering cables on order but right now expecting about 5 weeks till shipment. Anodes are for the protection of your investment.
 
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Not sure what type of metal ours are made of. Could be zinc, aluminum, or maganese. It depends on what type of water you boat in. I have no idea what mine are made of. If you’re in salt water, you may want to check which ones you should have. I’ve heard they can wear pretty quickly in salt water.

Magnesium


 
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Anyone have a rule of thumb on replacing anodes?
As mentioned, 50% and they're made of magnesium for freshwater use. If in saltwater, you'll want to change them to zinc. I don't know why Yamaha doesn't supply zinc anodes as accessories - you have to source your own.

We boat in freshwater, so ours still look new except for a bit of surface oxidation...I expect they'll last many years just like the magnesium anodes we had on older boats.

Don't forget the engine anodes - there's one on each engine in the cooling passages held with a single bolt and gasket.
 
Brackish water calls for Aluminum.. just $.02
 
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