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Another successful scupper change out

96Pirate

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1st I need to thank the board for the informative directions on how to change the scupper and for coming up with the tool sharing process. @Lspeedss wrench worked flawlessly.

Finally done! Ive been talking about doing this for a while and finally did so. Going camping Labor Day weekend and boat will be in the water a couple of nights. Lake test tomorrow. I filled her up with water yesterday and left it overnight and not a single drop in the can this morning. So I buttoned her up today and she is ready to go.

Nothing speaks like hard work....and cuts....and soreness. I actually did the hard parts last weekend but didnt have time to finish until today. Was sore for a day afterwards. I didnt listen to the group and went sleeveless for the 1st part so got cut up some. The hardest part was laying on that damn step sticking right into your chest. And getting the clamp on the scupper.

And sure enough the plastic scupper was cracked a bit. Not sure how long it would have held out. My guess is that the silicon was the only thing not letting the water in. So let this be a warning to all that have not replaced theirs yet. Yes, it is hard work but well worth it. This might be the best thing you can do for your boat. Its not the glamorous upgrade, but IMHO, it is required.

All in all it took about 3hrs.

Thanks again board and everyone involved.

Next up....@justason Lets have another beer and swap of the wrench.

media_1408232130679413534900.jpg
 

Murf'n'surf

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I'm on the fence about needing the wrench. Do you think its a must??
 

captainhook

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I used medium sized Channel Locks. The wrench probably makes it a hair easier but I didn't feel that it was absolutely necessary. A slightly larger pair of Channel Locks would've certainly been helpful though.

I had no trouble tightening it down to the point where my wife couldn't hold it from the outside.
 

Big Shasta

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I used channel locks as well...But I have some good sized ones, I just don't remember which size I used.
 

jdonalds

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I too used channel lock pliers.
 

Gym

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X2 on the channel locks.
 

96Pirate

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I'm on the fence about needing the wrench. Do you think its a must??
@Murf'n'surf Are you are asking if the replacement is a must or if the wrench is? If the wrench, maybe not, as others have stated channel locks worked for them. If replacement, my feeling is yes but I could see why others would not.

If you feel like you would tackle the job yourself, then I think it should be at the top of the list. The part is ~$60 and the wrench is provided or try channel locks.. So relatively an inexpensive fix. I am a handy person but I am not sure you need to be. Everything is provided on this site to make it easier, but it is hard work. Only because of the location. I am 44yo so my body felt it the day after. I dont know on the '05 model, but on the '07 230 you do need to grind the sides down for it to fit. So you may need to have a grinder available.

Now if you wouldn't want to tackle this yourself, then it comes down to cost. I am not sure how much someone would charge to to this but my guess would be a few hundred.

One thing I would suggest is to get down there with a magnifying glass to see if there are cracks. I didnt check mine before hand so it may have cracked while taking off.

I will tell you I am glad I did it.
 

jawsf16

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Are most people doing this on the older boats, or the newer ones also ?
Newer body style has the scupper drain above the waterline so not really necessary.
 

Lspeedss

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Any model year with the scupper under the waterline and it is made from plastic should change this out.. I believe at one point/year Yamaha moved the scupper above the waterline.. Should not be an issue on those model year boats.
 

Big Shasta

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I had to grind the sides on my 05 as well.
Are most people doing this on the older boats, or the newer ones also ?
I think the rule of thumb is that is you have a boat style with the scupper below the waterline and a plastic scupper, it should be changed. If the plastic one cracks, it's a huge hole below the waterline to flood your boat....and it has happened.
 

Lspeedss

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Looks like everyone is awake and responsive.. Lol
 

justason

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Any model year with the scupper under the waterline and it is made from plastic should change this out.. I believe at one point/year Yamaha moved the scupper above the waterline.. Should not be an issue on those model year boats.
To echo @Lspeedss statement and add some detail::
After procrastinating longer than I care to mention, I dove into the belly of the ship this weekend. I followed the steps as outlined in user member tips section step-by-step.

There was nothing wrong with my OEM plastic scupper, so this was preventative maintenance, THAT SAID: When it came to the step where you "pull" on the scupper hose in the engine bay to remove it from the rear of the scupper, I had barely pulled or twisted when It "broke free" a lot easier than I expected.. The result was the scupper failed at the threads between the jam nut and the hull....man the life boats!!....So as mentioned, Highly recommended upgrade....

upload_2015-1-3_15-0-38.png

My OEM scupper did not have the wad of silicone as shown on a lot of other images, overall it was pretty clean.

Now a question.
The image below is the port engine. Area where pump shaft comes thru the dividing wall. On this side of the boat the arc where the wall and the hull meet was potted with a thick green calking.
upload_2015-1-3_15-5-23.png

On the starboard side the calking on the arc was 50% coverage. Either they ran out of calk or maybe it was break-time and they forgot where they left off.? Either way I'm guessing this is just for isolation or maybe vibration dampening....that fender washer was oddly deformed as well...
upload_2015-1-3_15-8-9.png
 

Lspeedss

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@justason ..About efn time.. Well worth the PITA.
 

justason

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I deserve both those comments. Actually took me some time to find where I "safely" stored it.

Easier job than i thought too. I talked @waterboy into ordering one..i'll help him install it within the next 24 months...that'd break my record
 

Lspeedss

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Haha.. Don't worry.. I had my scupper for 6 years before I finally made a wrench and did the deed.
 

Ronnie

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I think the scupper location changed between the '09 230s and '10 240s. On the 230s the scupper is at the bottom center of the transom on the 240s its still in the same center column on the transom but it is mounted in the side and closer to the top near the ladder. If it fails it's still a bad thing but not nearly as bad as if it was In the old position.

One tip for anyone that has to remove and / or install the rubber fittings in relation to the water boxes is to coat the rubber with liquid soap. This makes getting those parts back into place a lot easier. I learned this when I installed a separate transducer next to the stock one in my 242.
 
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